New Idiot on the Block

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L.A.B. said:
mschmitz57 said:
In lieu of a parts book you can always browse the Andover Norton Website where they post the original parts listings "Online" no less. It's a little klunky (but then it IS British)

http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... del=n850_2

(sorry, couldn't resist)
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http://www.nortonmotors.de..... is a German website. :wink:

http://www.nortonmotors.de/
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Yeah, I noticed that. I was hoping nobody else would, and then rub my nose in it. Nice job.
but by the looks of it I'm sure there's an expat Brit web designer locked-up somewhere in East Berlin pounding out klunky html.

Thanks.
 
Be aware whether hard copy or online digital images if it concerns Commando there's some errors, over sights and missing or substitute items to learn about on forums or vendors time to time. There's a few special pullers to open engine when the time comes.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ws513Esq74k[/video]
 
FreeRadical said:
I stand corrected! A masochist I must be. Thank you all. Please keep it coming!

Kevin
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OK Kevin,

Whatever you do, Don't just service it and tune it up and try starting it. You'll end up blowing yourself up.
You really need to tear it completely apart and perform a full restoration on this baby and purchase every bling / CNC trinket available for it. Oh and Whitworth tools. You're gonna need LOTS of Whitworth tools. And pullers and a lot of special tools.

Better yet, just send it to CNW along with a blank check.
 
Speaking of tools, can you guys suggest a list of must-haves for me to start on the bike? My hope is to do the minimum at this point to to see if she'll turn over.

Is there other option to learn other than the shop manua? A "Clymer" for Nortons?

Queue head shaking...

Kevin
 
FreeRadical said:
Speaking of tools, can you guys suggest a list of must-haves for me to start on the bike? My hope is to do the minimum at this point to to see if she'll turn over.

Is there other option to learn other than the shop manua? A "Clymer" for Nortons?

Queue head shaking...

Kevin
Click to expand...

Looking at your garage, I'd bet you have more than enough tools to do the basic stuff. I've never seen the Clymer manual but I've used the Haynes manual for a lot of stuff (your bike is on the cover) when I started working on these old crocks. I know they're not the most accurate publications on the planet but it's a good start. Seriously you'll want to pickup a set of WW wrenches and sockets, available pretty reasonably on ebay. You can buy the tools as you require them. Use the search function on this website and you'll find a wealth of information on most tasks. You might want to get a copy of the Tech Digest. It has a lot of useful information in it. http://www.inoanorton.com/Merchandise/index.html
 
FreeRadical said:
Speaking of tools, can you guys suggest a list of must-haves for me to start on the bike?
Click to expand...

A clutch spring compressor tool is one "must-have" and an exhaust lock ring tool would be another, plus a few Whitworth tools.
http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Se ... 0Tools.htm



FreeRadical said:
Is there other option to learn other than the shop manua? A "Clymer" for Nortons?
Click to expand...

There is a specific Clymer Commando manual, however it's been out of print for some time, but the information is now in the Clymer 'British Street Bikes' manual.

http://www.clymer.com/clymer-collection ... bikes-m330

However, I suggest you also make use of the factory manual.
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repai ... mmando.pdf
 
Torch, hot air or hair dryer and extinguishers
1.5" end wrench or extended socket for trany sprocket reverse threaded nut
metric, SAE and Whitworth sockets and wrenches for unexcpected or buggered fasteners
series of hammers up to 3 lb sledge
long chisel edge drifts for almost blind access bearings
hand impact driver
pack of construction razors to ease cemented seams apart
clrclip pilers
clever clutch spring puller holder placer
wood or composite plate to cut out or other device for piston supporting phases
zip ties, wire rubber bands
grease fitting adapted to fit in caliper to push out pucks
forceps and long grabbers, magnet
tiny craft size 4" flat crow bars identical to house breaking kind
two 1/4" alu plate sized to trap clutch center to basket and basket to primary case mount boss
New Idiot on the Block
 
First off a warm welcome to the forum. I second Brittwits comments regarding your sanity. I like your style. Just remember to take everything these blockheads tell you with a grain of salt. Do your own thing, your own way, on your own time frame. Don't take the whole bloody thing apart before getting her running and having some fun. These bikes are like old tractors sitting a field. A little TLC,some warm fluids and some kind words and they spring back to life with vigor. I might ad, you got a nice looking bike at a good price so you are ahead of the game. Well done so far.
 
BritTwit said:
FreeRadical said:
That said, this is a huge project for me. A new idiot is on the block. I will be asking questions that will make you shake your head in wonderment. Please bear with me as I take this journey. It's sure to be a long one.
Kevin
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An idiot? I think not!
An idiot would not have the intelligence to choose the most iconic British twin to own.
An idiot would not spend the rather considerable time to learn how to restore, maintain and repair a Commando.
An idiot would not have the resources to purchase all manner of new parts and assorted bling to adorn his Commando.
Any health care professional would see that you are not an idiot.
Sir, you are a masochist, like the rest of us.
Welcome.
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And all this from a man who calls himself Twit !?! :D

Idiot... Twit... masochist... or just eccentric... whatever your choice, no one who buys an old Norton today is 'Normal' ... which is probably a large part of the reason to do so !
 
Kevin,

So was there any indication from the previous owner what was wrong with it or why it was parked?
I'd be curious if it had any upgrades over the years like electronic ignition. It looks surprisingly intact and original.
Pipes appear "un-blued", fork tubes look good. Chrome looks good. It must have been stored well. Looks like a great winter project.

For starters you might want to begin by carefully peeling back the layers. Remove the seat, tank, and side cover and see what you've got and look for any bodges. I see the ignition switch dangling. Perhaps the P.O. had electrical gremlins and was chasing them down.
Take lots of pictures because you'll want to remember where stuff goes and how cables were routed, etc.

I'd protect the speedometer from further damage by removing it and storing it in a safe place. It shows original miles and it represents the history of the bike. There are several speedo repair shops that can replace the glass/bezel or you can do it yourself, it's not very hard.

You might as well pull the carbs off and get them cleaned and sorted-out and begin to familiarize yourself with them.
Most of the engine oil is likely in the sump so you'll want to remove the big drain plug from the crankcase and let it drain.
You'll need a big 1.5" socket for this. Any oil in the oil tank should be drained too. Drain the gas tank and check for rust, etc.
Pull the plugs and examine them, squirt some oil into the cylinders and see if she kicks over.

You might want to pull the points cover off and see if you have original points ignition or electronic upgrade.
Might as well service the front brake and get it un-stuck and rebuilt because it's nice to have a operating front brake even if it's just for pushing the bike around the garage safely.

How exciting!
 
The PO was a painter and bartered for the bike 18 years ago from the original owner. When he got it, the front end was raised up like a chopper (8" over-tubes). Pipes were also changed out to something chopper-like. Who knows what ever happened to the mirror and turn signals.

He set about trying to get the bike back to the original look. His mechanic changed out the pipes and forks; rebuilt the carbs (twice) and got her purring like a kitten. The guy could never get used to the right-hand shifting. He even hit the family dog and put a dent in the front of the tank (don't ask me how!). The kick starter is new replacement, maybe due to the bike falling over.

The bike was ridden occasionally, but mostly just moved from storage A to storage B.

You're right about the electrical gremlins in the ignition switch. That's why it's dangling. I think he told me that it had a problem staying running, but that could mean anything, I suppose.

Any suggestions on how to get the front caliper unstuck?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Kevin,

That's a pretty encouraging story and explains why the forks and pipes look good. I'd say you found a great bike for a very fair price.
Nice that the `74 has all the improvements and is still a RH shift bike. "Last of the breed" so to speak.

OK, moving on to the front disk. Fred from Old Britt's has posted a nice tutorial on rebuilding the front disk caliper. https://www.oldbritts.com/caliper_rebuild.html
Another reason to support places like Old Britt's. Fred and Ella are great to deal with.

You'll need a peg spanner to remove the caliper plug. The Andover tool isn't cheap at $90, which is a lot for a tool you may only use once.
I've seen guys successfully cobble-up spanners with hardware store items.
It's a good time to see if any other Nortoneers live close by for help and maybe borrow a tool in exchange for pizza and beer.
 
mschmitz57 said:
Kevin,

That's a pretty encouraging story and explains why the forks and pipes look good. I'd say you found a great bike for a very fair price.

OK, moving on to the front disk. Fred from Old Britt's has posted a nice tutorial on rebuilding the front disk caliper.
https://www.oldbritts.com/caliper_rebuild.html

Another reason to support places like Old Britt's. Fred and Ella are great to deal with.
Click to expand...

+1 on Old Britts as a 'go-to' vendor of Norton parts.
Best website of all the vendors BY FAR.
The wealth of articles, images, parts diagrams, and ease of ordering put it far ahead of any other.
Plus, they ship quickly ... and are great people!
 
Your parts list grows...
It looks like you've got a couple of hex head bolts and washers installed on your lower fork yokes instead of the correct recessed Allen head pinch bolts.
Probably installed when the chopper forks were removed.

New Idiot on the Block
 
I think you did very well for the money spent.Also check for correct way to mount the rear brake cable.Good luck with your new project.
Mike
 
I think you did very well for the money spent.Also check for correct way to mount the rear brake cable.Good luck with your new project.
Mike
 
Congrats. You can make that caliper removal tool by finding steel pins correct hole(s) size. Drill into a steel bar where they line up . Weld into place.
 
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