New Idiot on the Block

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FreeRadical said:
PeterJoe,

Can you tell me what the paper-like manifold seal is and where it goes? Some gasket sets you see on e-bay come with or without this piece. I can see no other place in the parts diagram where this seal would go.

Kevin
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Ah, I see now. That paper gasket came with your carb rebuild kit, right?
Not sure what this is for. I suspect it's used between the carb and manifold (O-ring) but this is a belt and suspenders approach.
Perhaps for Triumph, BSA, applications.
 
Thanks for the link that shows the actual part. I can see it's much thicker. Heaven knows why they gave me the extra part in the kit.
 
BTW, Let me be the first to say "congratulations" for keeping a thread going for almost 10 pages with the word "Idiot" in the title.
Nice job everyone! They said it couldn't be done. Is this forum great or what...
 
mschmitz57 said:
BTW, Let me be the first to say "congratulations" for keeping a thread going for almost 10 pages with the word "Idiot" in the title.
Nice job everyone! They said it couldn't be done. Is this forum great or what...
Click to expand...

Phil would be proud/jealous!

With all of this focus on the Amals, I'm actually considering dumping my single Mikuni for a pair of MkII's. 'Anybody care to contribute to a "charitable" fund?

Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
mschmitz57 said:
BTW, Let me be the first to say "congratulations" for keeping a thread going for almost 10 pages with the word "Idiot" in the title.
Nice job everyone! They said it couldn't be done. Is this forum great or what...
Click to expand...

Phil would be proud/jealous!

With all of this focus on the Amals, I'm actually considering dumping my single Mikuni for a pair of MkII's. 'Anybody care to contribute to a "charitable" fund?

Nathan
Click to expand...

Do it !

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6ALySsPXt0[/video]
 
BTW, Let me be the first to say "congratulations" for keeping a thread going for almost 10 pages with the word "Idiot" in the title.
Nice job everyone! They said it couldn't be done. Is this forum great or what...
Click to expand...

I hope it's some kind of record. I plan on continuing to post here until the "idiot" stage is complete. Hold on guys...it's gonna be a long ride!!! :lol:

-Kevin
 
Hello all,

Been busy solving mysteries on the CL450s the last few days; however, I did manage to drain and clean the engine oil and primary case today. The primary chain was on the loose side (it had over 1/2" of play in it). I've got it back to 3/8", but I have a question about what kind of ATF to put in the case. I've got two option in the garage - Type F and Dexron/Mercon. None are for motorcycles, specifically. Does it make any difference which one I use?

Thanks!

Kevin
 
Kelvin I'd be very pensive about tensioning the primary chain to onlly 3/8" slack, as should feel too loose when cold but can develope shaft bending tension as sprockets, clutch basket and cradle all swell on full road temp. It does not matter much on type of ATF but Type F has less friction modifiers so supoosed to allow better grip in transmission bands and clutch plates but hardly any should get into spun clutch plates to matter though tranny ATF can still reach plates - if not blocked in path along clutch rod and clutch basket nut ala Dynodaves rod seal gizmo. The sad point is main commentary on ATF benefit is ya can tell where leaks coming from easier by the color and thickness seen where it shouldn't be. Stumbled on article last pm while tracking down my SV's fuel into oil issue to see a fella saying his MX 2smoke clutch was sticking badly to prevent playing with it tll tried type F ATF in tranny/clutch and it worked prefect w/o doing anything else but dump the propoer still clean looking gear lube out. Barrnett clutch people say new plate should be ATF wet then wiped off some for bedding in w/o chatter wash borads developing. Might even be able to feel a hp freed up by thinner fluid to chrun,
 
Kelvin I'd be very pensive about tensioning the primary chain to onlly 3/8" slack, as should feel too loose when cold but can develope shaft bending tension as sprockets, clutch basket and cradle all swell on full road temp.
Click to expand...

I'm not quite sure I understand. The Norton shop manual states that the chain should have a total up and down movement of 3/8". Are you saying mine is too loose or too tight?

Thanks,

Kevin
 
FreeRadical said:
Hello all,

Been busy solving mysteries on the CL450s the last few days; however, I did manage to drain and clean the engine oil and primary case today. The primary chain was on the loose side (it had over 1/2" of play in it). I've got it back to 3/8", but I have a question about what kind of ATF to put in the case. I've got two option in the garage - Type F and Dexron/Mercon. None are for motorcycles, specifically. Does it make any difference which one I use?

Thanks!

Kevin
Click to expand...


Just remember, when you adjust the primary chain tension, you're changing the drive chain tension as well because you're moving the transmission (and countershaft sprocket). Be sure to check it. As far as which ATF to use, I use anything I have on the shelf. I really don't think it matters. Use cheap 30W engine oil if you want. You're just lubricating a chain in a sealed environment afterall. I think the ATF works slightly better on the clutch plates. And like Hobot say, the red stuff is easier to identify in a puddle on the floor (not that my primary leaks or anything...).
 
I'm saying its a sliding judgment-experience scale to set apporpriate 3/8" slack cold and can be a shocker > candy cane main shaft tiwister, bearing bore eater to see how much tighter it gets hot so should fudge looser than seemingly sensable til checked hot then creep up on least slack tension when cold. Only risk on too loose a triplex chain is slapping case hi spots which eventually happens as chain wears anyway if not checking in now and again - voluntary or otherwise. Puddles was a nick name we gave a puppy leaving many wet yellar spots on floors. Commandos are a real thinking man's motorycycel so overwhlems me routinely.
 
DX III / dextron 3 , is wots used in fragile 5 speed ford falcon boxes , its thin enough to circulate .
Theres a fancy oil alternative , AND a synthetic at 5.000.000 $ a pint ( or 85 a gallon ) presumeing
the syncro compatability makes it clutch compatable . look up T 50 borgwarner on valvoline or etc .

other things destroy the box through uncirculation .

PS they invented nyloc & loctite - so self ejecting of components is obsolesent .
 
Hey Kevin...if you need a hand with the Commando, PM me, I'm just a few miles away in Milford...
Bill
 
Hi Bill,

It's great to have a fellow Norton owner so close! I may have to take you up on that someday soon. What kind of bikes do you have (or had)?

Kevin

BTW - My other hobby is drinking coffee, so let me know if you'd like to grab a cup sometime.
 
Hello all,

Just wanted to post a quick update and ask a few questions, naturally!

I re-adjusted the primary chain to give a little more slack and filled with 7oz of ATF. I also hooked up a fresh battery and the ignition switch and tested for spark - success!

I guess I couldn't leave well enough alone. I tried some of the other electrical switches, including the "dip switch". I'm not exactly sure what this switch is actually for, but I'm betting a puff of smoke from somewhere down under is NOT it. Guess who feels like a "dip shit"??? :roll:

I also cannot understand why the clutch lever is so hard to squeeze. Cable lube helped somewhat, but not much.

Kevin
 
Kevin everyone has to pay and pay for a fully fettered Commando. Dip is for low/hi beam and no electrical smoke should get out using switches. Might want to put in a lighter fuse for tracking a short down traditional trial and error route. Ya got enough primary lube in when the level just reaches the lower chain run. No matter as Norton fluid leves are all essentially self leveling down from seemingly normal top off levels. Main strain on clutch action is thickness of the friction stack to get the spring in right configuration for un strained squeezing and holding. Otherwise good cable routed well and cable end gizmo aligned nice.
 
I think the "smoke" button that I pressed was the horn -- directly below the dip shit toggle switch.

Kevin
 
FreeRadical said:
I think the "smoke" button that I pressed was the horn -- directly below the dip shit toggle switch.

Kevin
Click to expand...

Sounds like the hot horn wire is shorted somewhere.

If you still have a stiff clutch after lubing the clutch cable and checking the cable routing, you might want to remove the clutch plates and check the stack height. There's lots of write-up on stack height on this forum. If your clutch pack dimension is too thin, it can cause heavy clutch action (as the clutch plates wear, the lever pull increases). If this is the case usually adding an additional plain steel plate to the clutch pack brings the stack height up enough to pre-load the diaphragm spring into it's sweet spot. Here's an excellent explanation:
http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm

Another thing that can cause stiff clutch action is a mis-aligned clutch actuator arm behind the transmission outer cover.
This is what the cable is connected to inside the trans cover. The lever needs to be in alignment with the hole the cable passes through. Also the actuator arm can jump out of position completely if cable tension goes slack.

Use the search function for posts.

Just a thought.
 
Thanks, Mark. Based on what I have read, it might be a flat spot on the clutch actuator roller. There are some signs of rust in the gearbox. I will also re-lube and make sure routing is ok before checking the stack height.

I will try using the search function a little harder. :oops: Did I mention you guys are the best?

Kevin
 
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