NEUTRAL SWITCH

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Jan 12, 2007
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Just finished building an old Mk111 Commando. 2 small faults: bike won't go into neutral when engine is running, but ok when engine has stopped. Done the usual adjustments at clutch & cable, does anyone have any ideas what else it could be?
Also, neutral light has stopped working, found to be a faulty switch, is there enough room to remove the switch as it seems very close to the engine?
many thanks
Stevie
 

L.A.B.

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stevie850 said:
bike won't go into neutral when engine is running, but ok when engine has stopped.

That is usually caused by clutch drag, and my own 850 MkIII suffers from the same problem at times (the original type bronze friction plates are still fitted). Try to get into the habit of selecting neutral before coming to a stop.
Sometimes fitting more modern friction plates can help I believe, or re-adjusting the push rod end-play to between a ¼ to ½ a turn on the adjuster rather than the one full turn as specified in the manuals.

stevie850 said:
Also, neutral light has stopped working, found to be a faulty switch, is there enough room to remove the switch as it seems very close to the engine?

I'm not totally sure if there is or not. Have you tried to remove it?
Are you sure the switch is definitely faulty? Have you tried altering the adjustment (but don't screw it in too far)?
 
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Stevie,

A too tight primary chain can make it impossible to find neutral with the bike running. Having said that, the MK III has a self-tensioning primary chain, which is nearly incapable of over-tensioning the chain. Nevertheless, I would check to make sure one of your tensioners is not jambed in the extended position.

Jason
 
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It's certainly possible to change the neutral switch but it does require quite nimble fingers. The biggest problem is making sure that the short wires turn with the switch body.

I've never known a switch to fail but the wire crimps are vulnerable.

The plunger in the switch is actuated by a stud on the camplate and if the switch is screwed in too far, it will "cam-off" and turn the plate just enough to stop you finding neutral.

Bearing in mind that it is very difficult to see the lamp whilst lying on your back with your hands up between the gearbox plates, the switch is best adjusted by attaching a meter with audible continuity warning to the switch connectors and turning the switch so that it just operates plus about half a turn.
 
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