850 Commando won't start, just quit - mid ride.

Generally speaking, if you have compression, spark and fuel - the engine will start, unless the ignition timing has moved. If the timing moves, it will normally retard and you would hear the exhaust backfire. If you use a double-ended coil for ignition, you usually have fewer electrical connections.
 
When re-wiring I use crimp and solder ring terminals. I cover the solder area and about 1/4" of the wire with heat shrink. There's nothing wrong with spades but by using ring terminals there's four less connections at the coils to be concerned with.

Yes, a clean wire properly crimped into a clean connector makes a "forever" air-tight connection, so solder is not needed. However, the slightest contamination (oil from fingers, etc.) make a connection that will eventually corrode. The crimp then solder connections are the same except that the solder prevents air from getting to the actual connection and therefore no corrosion. Also, you can see your work (not covered in plastic) so you know it was done right. I have seen crimp connectors (spade and ring) where the person was too close to the edge and crimped the plastic only or barely caught the metal - everything seems to work at first but eventually it doesn't and it is a bear to find. BTW, It is important to use rosin core solder and not overheat.
Have you tried the product "NO-OX-ID" produced by Sanchem Inc. made in Chicago, Illinois . This is used in the telecomms industry on the bare copper cables before the crimp terminal is connected to the copper wire cable. It seals both the copper wire and the crimp connector from corrosion.
 
Have you tried the product "NO-OX-ID" produced by Sanchem Inc. made in Chicago, Illinois . This is used in the telecomms industry on the bare copper cables before the crimp terminal is connected to the copper wire cable. It seals both the copper wire and the crimp connector from corrosion.
Yes, there are plenty of No Ox products and for large wires I would definitely use them. When I had my home improvements business, all house wiring was dipped before being screwed down and when I worked on mainframe computers it was required for all massive power connections.

Way too messy for me with motorcycle wiring, especially with plastic covered crimp area connectors. And I like to see that the crimp is in the right place, and I like the little strain relief that heat shrink provides.

For aluminum house wiring in the 70s, it was an absolute must, and I made a living for a while simply un-screwing, dipping and re-screwing switches, outlets, and lighting in a huge community that was built with all aluminum wire.
 
One of the first things I did as a fledgling Commando owner was to remove the Lucas Lucar spade connectors on the coils and put on ring terminals. I have nothing against them, but they were not really designed to be used out in the weather, and there is really no point in having an extra connection that can vibrate loose, eventually drop off, or as Greg says, just another potential failure point waiting to happen. They also, like @concours said are easier to keep away from other bits of the bike. They were probably used to speed up production back in the day.

I think re used them on my MG-B somewhere.

 
Maybe we should have a poll of how many people have had had a spade connector come off of a coil on a commando šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£ I know of 3 different commandos
Much worse than come off is to be loose and corroded! I've had that a couple of times - can be confusing to troubleshoot.
 
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