Modern Oils

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needing said:
Hi Greg.
I call "Use 'em up. Wear 'em out. Rebuild them. Repeat" as more money than good sense.

Try " We now have the technology...".
A Norton Commando is not of the disposable era - get your oil tested.
Test your oil all you want, but if you use your bike as intended, it's going to wear out and you're going to be rebuilding it.
Ride it.
 
hobot said:
Modern Oils

Round here, they call that sort of lamp a cruisie, or a geese neb.
 
needing said:
When is your next rebuild scheduled?
Probably not too long from now as I think a cam lobe is worn.

I got the beat disassembled the engine with just over 6000 mile on it.
First rebuild lasted 31,000 miles
Second rebuild is now at 32,5000 miles

So........ just over 30,000 miles on a top end job . I ain't complaining.
 
some chrome flakes on the magnetic drain plug and the exhaust rockers not moving the same distance is what I'm going on.
Exactly what would an oil analysis tell me beyond that?
 
Chrome - wrong word, My bad. I should just say shiny hard metal.
Whatever it is, metal flakes in the oil need to be addressed. I 'm betting the cam is dying.

Who knows, maybe it was the modern oil that I use (Mobile 1), a dry start or a soft cam, in the end doesn't really matter.
I'm gonna fix it.

It wouldn't wear out if I didn't ride it. But then.......where's the fun in that?
 
needing said:
Mark said:
Chrome - wrong word, My bad. I should just say shiny hard metal.
Whatever it is, metal flakes in the oil need to be addressed. I 'm betting the cam is dying.

Who knows, maybe it was the modern oil that I use (Mobile 1), a dry start or a soft cam, in the end doesn't really matter.
I'm gonna fix it.

It wouldn't wear out if I didn't ride it. But then.......where's the fun in that?

I do not use this oil but this site is an interesting read.
http://www.dle.com.tw/en_poly.html and at least search for 'Norton" or "Commando", "Mobil", "water", "diester"
"...To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics..."

The term "Synthetic" oil any more only means that the oil has a controlled and uniform molecule size -whether it is synthesized from gas or made from a good grade of base stock is not considered -and i really doubt that it makes much difference. Jim
 
comnoz said:
Were you using mobil 1 V-twin or automotive Mobil 1? Jim

The late Gerry Bristow RIP, famous on the old NOC email chat group, had covered 80,000+ miles plus on his Mk3 850 out in Crete (hot),
and as an ex-oil industry chap, had switched to Mobil 1 auto sometime not too long after when it first appeared circa 1974.
Engine reportedly had never been touched, apart from routine servicing, he bought it new...

Which is not to say that Mobil 1 then was the same as it is now,
and v-twin is now the recommended (by Mobil) oil for larger clearances air-cooled motorcycle engines.

P.S. Talking 15W/50 Mobil 1 here of course,
Mobil 1 comes in plenty of grades these days...
 
Jim was merely pointing out the bleedin obvious - that even oil industry technicalities are not entirely always entirely truthful or honest about these things.
So what hope do us mere mortals have in stating that one oil is clearly better than another.
We don't all ride in Alaska in subzero temps, or in the Sahara at closer to boiling than zero.
Or the same mileage each year, with the same amount of careful maintenance.

And besides, oils are like politics, everyone has their point of view and no two pov's are the same....
 
3 sorts of snythetics plus hybrid mixes as well as more refined oil by cracking-distillation-separations and Mobile One don't seem to be the same formula Gerry or Alan Goldwater made famous in their tests reports so the more I learn we should all be going green organic like good ole Caster bean oil, as long as ya driain it all while still hot. With a bit of breeding some DIY might be able to get hemp to secrete a good base oil with a better aroma than model ariplane smell. Btw a good bit of my past life dealt with lab tests inorganic, organic, meatabloic to suggest that any one wanting to trust the numbers better run sample through more than once and have more than one lab doing this to boot. There are some super hi end specialty oils to induge in and ITT Transmissions insists on Redline gear fuild and to change it out after 1000 miles.

So what is the best initial run up, ugh, aka: breakin start and how soon to change?
 
hobot said:
So what is the best initial run up, ugh, aka: breakin start and how soon to change?

Mobil themselves note that many moderns have Mobil synthetic from brand new.
Small clearances and very precise machining though.

What does that tell ya ?
 
needing said:
Hi Jim.
Refer: "The term "Synthetic" oil any more only means that the oil has a controlled and uniform molecule size -whether it is synthesized from gas or made from a good grade of base stock is not considered -and i really doubt that it makes much difference. Jim"

I am/was hoping to get some objective data on the analysis of everyone's favourite oil in Norton Commandos to have a more real-to-life comparison. Seem the subjective guessing is the preferred option to date. Oh well... I guess.

I think folk are not telling you on purpose in order to avoid the thread exploding... For every 10 Norton owners you'll get at least 11 different preferences, and each preference posted will get at least 10 debating answers !!

But to answer your question, my own preferred oil is made from top quality base, it has the highest zinc content (or one of the highest), maintains its viscosity longer than most, and is available in a good choice of sae grades. They also do a breaking in additive for new engine builds and a very highly regarded range of gearbox oils.

The company is Redline.
 
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