Modern Oils

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've said this before. Castrol gtx is also sold to fleet owners as Castrol rx fleet - suitable for petrol and diesel engines. Castrol magnatec is sold as Castrol consab ps to uk police forces and is also suitable for both. Petrol and diesel oils of the same manufacture and grade are the same stuff out of the same tanks just in different packages when sold to the general public. I use shell rimula (sometimes called rotella)in all my vehicles for the last 35 years - never had an oil related issue. Any oil is better than no oil and fresh oil is better than old oil - its all you need to know! Nortons will take any engine oil as long as it gets changed every 1000 miles.
 
myjota said:
I've said this before. Castrol gtx is also sold to fleet owners as Castrol rx fleet - suitable for petrol and diesel engines. Castrol magnatec is sold as Castrol consab ps to uk police forces and is also suitable for both. Petrol and diesel oils of the same manufacture and grade are the same stuff out of the same tanks just in different packages when sold to the general public. I use shell rimula (sometimes called rotella)in all my vehicles for the last 35 years - never had an oil related issue. Any oil is better than no oil and fresh oil is better than old oil - its all you need to know! Nortons will take any engine oil as long as it gets changed every 1000 miles.
Click to expand...

I agree on the Rotella.

I'm not so sure about any oil. In the early 90's I started sending oil samples for analysis.
The first time was at around 1000 miles on my streetbike. It came back showing extreme oxidation and lots of iron. The recommendation was "Reduce change interval and re-test"

Next time was around 500 miles -same result.

Again at about 300 miles -same result.

Then I talked to the guy who had been doing my oil tests at the racetrack -he said "off the record -I would look for better oil"

The oil I had been using was a popular conventional racing oil in the midwest. Used by the roundy-round guys. I was a dealer for the oil and had thought highly of it. [it was not Valvoline]

I switched to the other HD diesel oil that I stocked. [Mystic conventional] At 1000 miles the oil tested better than any of the tests I got from the racing oil but still high in oxidation. I still got "reduce change interval and retest"

Then I switched to Rotella synthetic. That was the first time I ever got a test return showing that the change interval could be increased.

I sent an oil sample about 3 years ago using Mobil 1 v-twin. At 2000 miles it came back showing I could increase the change interval. Jim
 
olChris said:
Well the Penrite 15w-50 Diesel oil i buy (20Ltr) for all my diesel vehicles indicate on the back that it is suitable for all modern engines..... and they show motor cycle as one of there so called "modern engines" pictures..... I use it in all my engines lawnmower, lancruiser, isuzu 4cyl 4wd, 865 triumph, 2 x Nortons, ducatti etc... I have used Penrite for more than 15 yrs with no oil related wear issues...
Though i dont race any engine but i change all at 5K no question ............. And if you think new Norton seals and rubbers are made of the same "rubber" as they were 40-50yrs ago.... :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
Click to expand...


you did 5000 miles on a lawnmower?.....well I guess you live in a big country.....


:D
 
Been using this stuff on older flat tappet non catalytic engines for some time now. The ZDDP level is 1200 ppm. It certainly sounds like the right stuff for our old engines.
Available in straight 50 weight, which seems to stay in the engine much better than 20-50 in extreme heat, 100 f and higher. Regular temps I use the 20-50.

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

Hopefully it isn't the racing oil that tested so poorly for you, Jim?

Glen
 
ludwig said:
NEVER CHANGE YOUR OIL ! .

All you need is rolls of toilet paper :
http://www.garynorth.com/public/9346.cfm

Or read this :
http://www.krimineel.com/oud-directeur- ... en-onnodig

Ok , it is in Dutch , but the man is an ex director of Castrol Oils Netherlands , and he claims that the so called need for oil changes is one big hoax , and that engine oil actually gets better over time : the carbon particles that make the oil black are an exellent lubricant .
At the time the article was written , he had done 350 000 + km with his car on the same oil , and he gets an ever increasing nr of followers , who have finally seen the light .
Many others have done 2- 300 OOO km without oil change and no ill effects .
Google it up .


The average American male may have no clue whether his own car is rear or frontwheel drive , but is an EXPERT oil changer : every 3000 miles is a minimum .
Why do they do it ? ;
I believe it is a left over of their anal phase :
They love the sight of warm , ' dirty ' oil running in a can , just like a 2 year old proudly calls his mammy to show what he just dropped in the pot .

So , the next time you feel the urge to change your oil , go see your shrink first ! .

Now that we got that settled , can we finally start the big toothpaste debate ?
I read somewhere that peppermint flavour makes you impotent ..
Click to expand...

And how often do you change your oil? :D
 
Just because oil is clean does not mean it's okay. The additive package in modern oils is as important as the oil itself, preventing the oil from oxidising starters. Keeping it in viscosity for another. Given that most dozey bloody car drivers barely crawl around at the speed limit these days, & wouldn't know what a red line was if you beat them round the head with one,a sump full of old chip fat would probably last for ever!
Please let me know if any one wants to test the oil for life theory in your air cooled twin. I would love to see the results after 50,000 miles, but it might not be a pretty sight.
 
Matchless said:
Just because oil is clean does not mean it's okay. The additive package in modern oils is as important as the oil itself, preventing the oil from oxidising starters. Keeping it in viscosity for another. Given that most dozey bloody car drivers barely crawl around at the speed limit these days, & wouldn't know what a red line was if you beat them round the head with one,a sump full of old chip fat would probably last for ever!
Please let me know if any one wants to test the oil for life theory in your air cooled twin. I would love to see the results after 50,000 miles, but it might not be a pretty sight.
Click to expand...

It might be done if you had enough toilet paper to filter out the microscopic particles and renewed the additives regularly.

I had a doctor for a customer some years ago who tested the theory in his Toyota diesel pickup. At somewhere over 20,000 miles the oil was so thick it would not come out of the drain plug -the engine would not start -not enough compression.

One new engine later and he was back in business -for another 20 some thousand and he was back -for another new engine. Now you know why doctors are so expensive. Jim
 
Ludwig, maybe there is a reason the man is an EX director of Castrol, he sounds like a nutbar.

I sure don't change oil as often as many on this site do, but 300,000 kms is most likely a hoax number. Perhaps the vehicle started consuming so much oil that it became self changing early on. That tends to happen with non maintained vehicles.

Glen
 
htown16 said:
"Detergent" was probably a poor choice of a term to name these oils when they first came out. The difference between them and nondetergent oil is their ability to hold the soot particals that are the byproduct of combustion in suspension. These are too small to be trapped in an oil filter. The reason these oils seem to turn black so quickly is because they are holding all this potential sludge in suspension. With the nondetergents this would have built up inside the engine. They have no solvent ability and don't "scrub down" the inside of an engine.
Besides they have been the predominant type available for the last 40 years. Unless you are the original owner chances are any old Brit bike that has been ridden at all during that time has had detergent oil in it.
I've run two old Brit bikes on detergent oils without rebuilding the engines and run it in the Norton that has had a rebuild. No problems.
Now I do run motorcycle specific oil and not car oil but that is another discussion.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that. I've started using a high viscosity oil normally used in diesel engines, and I could not be certain it would not cause damage. I don't have an oil filter on the engine - only the strainer in the oil tank. There is always a problem of my motor not running hot enough because of the methanol, so it is better to run lean to avoid internal condensation as much as possible. I'm aware that in any engine which has been raced there is always some metal accumulation in the bottom of tank and engine, however I'd hate to think of it being picked up and redistributed.
 
Ludwig, Why have a discussion forum, if you cannot raise a simple question without copping crap ? What has come from this thread is what I suspected anyway, and I'm grateful for the confirmation. The alternative is search and try and filter through the bullshit from oil companies and risk finding out the hard way if you are wrong in what you do.
 
I have heard of those toilet roll oil filters in diesels before.
Apparently they filter the soot particles out of the oil in diesels - which degrade the oil differently to petrol engines ??
 
ludwig said:
Surely there must have been another reason his engine(s) failed .

VW diesel engined cars have a recommended service interval of 30000 km ( 20 000 mls) , which must include a large safety margin .
They have millions of these cars running under warranty worlwide .
In the late 90-ties I took over a VW Golf 1300 from a client , who surely didn't change the oil before handing it in . I really trashed that little car for an additional 60 -70 OOO km . NEVER changed oil or filter . Added may be 5 - 6 litres over that distance . When I finally ditched the car , the engine was still in perfect shape .

Air cooled :
an old friend of mine ( long ago ) had a Horex Regina 400 cc .
It was his only means of transport for many years .
No oil filter and never an oil change . Only added cheap oil when low .
Never cleaned it either .
It looked like a real rat bike , but it NEVER let him down .
How many km ? don't know , but it must have been a LOT .
I still see him from time to time , so I could ask , but I am sure he won't know , because he didn't care ..
Click to expand...

I don't know what another reason would be. We just replaced brakes and engines on his truck.

VW over here says their new diesel oil change interval is 10,000 miles or every 6 months -whichever comes first -under ideal conditions. Jim

The local dealer recommends 5000 miles. Jim
 
haha - thx Ludwig, i needed to have nice goodbye to 2014 with a good guffaw!!

ludwig said:
acotrel said:
Ludwig, Why have a discussion forum, if you cannot raise a simple question without copping crap ?
Click to expand...
......
Why not post your questions there , and discuss oil , rake , trail and slipper clutches ..
with the hobbits of this world , till you both drop off your bar stools ?
( or the bar tender kicks you out ..)
Click to expand...
 
I know my Mercedes 320 gas calls for oil changes at 10 to 12,000 miles.
If you don't replace the oil filter at around 6000 miles it will collapse.
At 9 to 10,000 miles the valve train starts sounding like shit. I just change the oil and filter at 6000 any more. Jim
 
JimNH said:
OMG! Another oil thread full of hearsay, old wives tales, oil company reps, diesel mechanics, and Buddhist monks. Stop already; never start an oil thread on a forum. If you want to know anything check the oil company's website; it may actually have some facts.
Click to expand...


This site is a form of entertainment. If you don like it, turn the TV off.

I am not going to apologise for only knowing about this site this year, and not knowing what's been brought up before I starting looking.. I am not even going to apologise for not being able to surf this site for information I need, nor that fact that I find it difficult to post photos blah blah blah.

One of my bosses once said to me , " don't believe anything you hear, and believe only 1/2 you see, and you shouldn't make tooooo many mistakes ".

I think you could be nice and apologise for you comment here.

Dereck
 
Don't believe anything on the internet. Half of what you read and none of what you hear. Break in with conventional 4 me then Synthetic once bedded in. Just the internet. :wink:
 
hobot said:
OK got it, leak prone BI engines may leak more with diesel level detergent oil cleaning the sealing sludge out, ugh.
Click to expand...

Hi Hobot, the comment any oil is better than none still applies. My diesel mechanic friend was pleased his engine stopped using oil after he started using Oil designed for the job. Us mechanics are always pleased to be able to cure problems, especially when it takes little effort . As seen on this sight,. there is nothing worse than not being able to fix a problem.
My friend ran a truck servicing business and although I don't know what oil he was stocking for those big diesel trucks, it must have been diesel specific.

BPO sell a Super Tractor oil for farmers. it goes in all engines, gearboxes and hydraulics [ or it used to ] . I think modern machinery has got far more sophisticated and specific nowadays and the STO is probably not recommended any more [ could be wrong ]

Dereck
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top