MK III E-Start mechanics

Hi Guys,
I have a goal of actually being able to use my E-start. The bike has been sitting for a bunch of years while we raised kids and I'm just now getting the time to go through it. She was running when I put her up and all she really needs is a battery, fresh fluids, a master cylinder rebuild, and some deferred maintenance.

E-Start - Before I parked it I had the starter motor converted to a 4 brush unit. In the process of installing it and looking at the system, I discovered that the sprag had "gone over the top" and no longer engaged. I worked on it and got it back into the proper position, installed and tried it again and it and it went over the top again. So I pulled it out again and noticed that one of the rings/housing was cracked. So I ordered a new sprag (not cheap as I remember) and installed the new sprag, but never tried it out. Now that I'm getting close to going "live", I'm wondering if there is something else I should inspect carefully prior to pressing the button? I don't want to trash the new sprag. I know I need to add the heavier cables, but right now I'm more worried about the mechanics than the electrical side of this system. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thx,
Cameron

Check the release point of the anti-kickback device. It should release at no more than 50 ft/lb of torque. It can be adjusted by means of the nut holding the two Belleville washers in tension.

Ya know only your real friends will tell ya the truth. Have you ever heard of such a silly name for a vital part, Sprag Gear and wonder where its got its name from, which gives deeper insight on what you've taken on with a sprag gear Commando.
As much as the sprag gear still seeks a final solution so does mystery how its last known use in a motorcycle was helping to sink Norton's ship. So to ease your mood on what you'll soon learn

There is a whole kennel to study up on sprag-ness engineering work arounds.
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum ... 347.0.html
http://www.captain.norton.clara.net/cnn2sec47.html
https://www.google.com/#q=spragthrope+motorcycles

don't know anything about these, but as a mechanic I do now a poorer battery can stuff a starter motor. Use the good one out of you car while testing. Make sure your cables are at least as big as the ones used in Japanese cars. Make sure your cables, [ earth and power ] go straight from the battery to the started motor [ and not via the chassis ]. I may consider an electric start one day but they seem to cost 1/3 the value of the bike. Might be cheaper to buy one with it already installed.

The upgrades I did to my e-start which made it good enough to remove the kickstarter did not involve the starter.

Just a 3 phase alternator and a good AGM battery. Jim

I agree with Jim, I use the OE Prestolite starter but made cables from #6 wire with a good AGM battery.

A 3 phase alt with a modern RR is also a good idea.

Checking the break over torque of the anti kick back device is a must for the sprag health. I've seen two of those that were so rusted that they were just another gear in the train..

After replacing Sparg upgraded to 6 gauge cables. 3 phase alternator and a Shorai battery. Never had a problem after that.

The sprag sits between the crank gear and the drive sprocket. These two parts must have their OD and ID respectively within tolerance to prevent sprag failure, and they do wear. See the Old Britts tech article to get the specs. These are expensive parts to replace, but then so are the succession of sprags they will chew up if the parts remain out of spec.

I had to replace one of the mating parts and the sprag during my Mk3 rebuild 4 years ago. These parts, plus a Dave Comeau starter, 4 AWG wiring, a 3-phase alternator, and a big-ass battery have given me four years of instant starts by just flicking the little green button. My right knee feels great.

Guys,
Thanks for your help here.
I bought the bike with barely 5,000 miles on her and the sprag was already... well, spragged. It now has about 15K on her, so I'm thinking that the chance of wear on those 2 parts is minimal. But, I will pull them and mic them just to make sure.

The back fire device ? To be safe, looks like I need to pull that apart and assemble per the Old Brits tech article . I have to pull the primary cover off anyway, so I might as well check it all.

Anything else I should check while I'm inside the primary?
Cheers,
Cameron

What they said, plus check the routing of the wires coming out of the alternator to be sure it isn't rubbing anything or liable to get tangled up in something.
Jaydee

Post script - I just finished reading the Old Brits Tech article on the "back fire device" and its all cool till you get to final adjustment. Old Brit had to make a tool??? this could be a pain in the ass. Has anyone got an easier way to do this?
Thx,
C

Hey Jaydee,
I noticed that the serial number on your MK3 is fairly close to mine (330007). They must have come out within a couple weeks of each other.

C

Interesting, where are you located? Where was yours purchased? I got mine near Atlanta Georgia in Nov 1975. They had 3 and were going out of business. I got to pick my color.
Jaydee

Special tool: If you're talking about a wrench to grip the shaft for torque testing, I just used a large socket with 2 or 3 dowel pins inserted to cause enough interference to grip the shaft. I don't remember the sizes or details, just try a few combinations.
To be safe, I set my breakaway torque to 46 ft lbs. It works fine, occasionally slips, but that's what its for.
Jaydee

I sent my anti-backfire device to Fred (OB) who confirmed the setting at just below 50 ft-lbs.

For a tool to set the anti kick device, on the splined shaft that makes up the device there are 2 splined washers. I have some spare ones, and welded a socket to one whitch makes a great tool.

The washers are cheap, anyone that sells Norton parts should have some.

Jaydee,
Thanks for the advice on the tool. As far as I know, I'm the 4th owner. A guy named ken from Richmond , Va bought it from a guy in Va Beach, who was going through a divorce, in early summer 1995 with about 3,000 miles on it. Ken sold it a couple months later to a mutual friend Tom. Tom shined it up, put on fresh rubber, a Boyer , and about 2,000 miles on it and sold it to me in spring 1996 with barely more than 5,000 miles on it, basically original and fresh. I live in the Richmond , Va area. I think the bike was probably sold originally in Va Beach, but have no way of knowing. That area has a huge semi- transient military population because of all of the many Naval facilities located in that part of VA, so it could have come from anywhere The bike is white with the red and blue stripes. I have about 15,000 miles on it now. The bike is original and not restored. This Commando has been the source of unhappiness within the garage because my trident needs some work and when it came to a choice of whether to wrench on the Triumph or ride the Norton, the Triumph got neglected.
Cheers,
Cameron