Main bearings (2010)

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just received tectake puller kit serial number R190813014. crank cold. took 2 minutes to remove. over the moon!
 
Time Warp said:
I find it hard to believe Mick Hemming's would suggest such a Bogan method.
If the inner race is going to be removed in that dodgy manner at least use fox wedges not a chisel which has an tip angle for cutting not wedging. :eek:
Coming to you from a Boilermaker.

A fox wedge.

Main bearings (2010)
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Time Warp said:
I find it hard to believe Mick Hemming's would suggest such a Bogan method.
Click to expand...

You obviously have no idea of the difference between a chisel and fox wedge.

If you can not see why a chisel is the wrong tool for the job you need to put that tool down and get someone with a clue to do the job, like it or not.
I retract my statement, I now do not believe Mick Hemmings would use a chisel and broadcast it but feel free to say hello for me.

Now where is that club hammer to fit those nice new bearing inner's. :D

British motorcycles, creating dodgy mechanics for over a century.
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This subject reminds of working with a guy torquing flanges (He was a fairly lightweight chap)
I noticed he would use the torque wrench like he was starting a lawn mower to get some momentum (fairly high torque settings) you could see and hear the wrench clicking and due to the violent action being used would go well beyond the needed setting.
He informed me that was the way he had always done it.
 
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After you have the bearing off get the crank crack tested.

Many off them are cracked at the drive side
 
Time Warp said:
You obviously have no idea of the difference between a chisel and fox wedge.

If you can not see why a chisel is the wrong tool for the job you need to put that tool down and get someone with a clue to do the job, like it or not.
I retract my statement, I now do not believe Mick Hemmings would use a chisel and broadcast it but feel free to say hello for me.

Now where is that club hammer to fit those nice new bearing inner's. :D

British motorcycles, creating dodgy mechanics for over a century.
#

This subject reminds of working with a guy torquing flanges (He was a fairly lightweight chap)
I noticed he would use the torque wrench like he was starting a lawn mower to get some momentum (fairly high torque settings) you could see and hear the wrench clicking and due to the violent action being used would go well beyond the needed setting.
He informed me that was the way he had always done it.
Click to expand...

presumably with Metallica blasting out, to make sure the clicks are drowned out properly...
 
Time Warp said:
You obviously have no idea of the difference between a chisel and fox wedge.

If you can not see why a chisel is the wrong tool for the job you need to put that tool down and get someone with a clue to do the job, like it or not.
I retract my statement, I now do not believe Mick Hemmings would use a chisel and broadcast it but feel free to say hello for me.

Now where is that club hammer to fit those nice new bearing inner's. :D

British motorcycles, creating dodgy mechanics for over a century.
#

This subject reminds of working with a guy torquing flanges (He was a fairly lightweight chap)
I noticed he would use the torque wrench like he was starting a lawn mower to get some momentum (fairly high torque settings) you could see and hear the wrench clicking and due to the violent action being used would go well beyond the needed setting.
He informed me that was the way he had always done it.
Click to expand...
mick hemmings video 1hr 1 minute. don't try to belittle me. ask him why he uses a chisel on a tough to remove bearing
 
freddie1105 said:
mick hemmings video 1hr 1 minute. don't try to belittle me. ask him why he uses a chisel on a tough to remove bearing
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Are you posting while drunk ?

I never said anything of the sort, I quoted someone else who posted that.... I said I found that statement hard to believe followed by not believing it.
Now you are saying he uses a chisel, I would not know because I do not have one of these video's or have I ever watched one.

I have had no trouble removing the bearings on the last four Norton crankshafts but I guess it comes down to knowing what works.
That applies across any situation with that bearing format.
In a lot of cases a split plate bearing puller (as posted) will lift the bearing inner when it is heated.

jan nelder said:
presumably with Metallica blasting out, to make sure the clicks are drowned out properly...
Click to expand...

I think not Jan, these are LNG projects, no camera's, no mobile phones, no music, not even Bluetooth when the plant goes gas on.
I forgot to mention, he said,but it clicked ?
Maybe he saw it in a video. :D

#
I got a Made in China set of these which work great, I also got a (replacement) blind bearing puller that also works great.

Using a tool fit for purpose makes any job anything but a job be it at work or a hobby.
The faces are wedge shaped and can get under the race as it is tightened.

Main bearings (2010)
 
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But as it turned out not that uncommon based on FaceBook posts from other people who had found the same crack including one Mk3 (iirc)
I could have done without that all the same.

In my case I only noticed the crack some time after removing the original factory bearing inner.
It (inner) was ground down and removed with no drama to the crank with no puller, was the crack there before I do not know.
Was the inner acting as some form of strong back to the journal and removing it compromised the surface structure and it then cracked, who knows.

#
The bearing inner race is a tight fit on the journal and when hard against the cheek face might offer some reinforcement to the radius (or not).
 
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Dances with Shrapnel said:
Facebook?

Interesting that this is the only one I am aware of on AccessNorton, the premier forum for Norton big twins.
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I would have preferred the only one to not be me.
Oddly enough someone posted on FB about finding a crack like that and someone linked to my crack thread.
Previous post edited.

Without harping on about it, I prefer to not beat on crankshafts for good reason but am reminded to once look again for a replacement left hand cheek for that crankshaft.

mdt-son said:
This kind of crack is attributed to internal pressure.

https://www.quora.com/What-are-the-causes-for-the-failure-of-shafts

As the shaft is solid, the reason could be high residual stresses from a previuos heat or surface treatment which would cause high hoop stresses. Or it could be an internal manufacturing flaw in conjunction with torsion fatigue.

The shaft appears to be shot anyway and you might as well give it to a material laboratory for closer examination.

-Knut
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Beating on crankshafts is bad.

As I said, the longitudinal crack is an outlier and more of an enigma. When I first saw the initial post of the subject picture months back my mind ran rampant with speculations including metallurgical flaw.
 
That is a first for my eyes... I've never considered a failure like that. Perhaps in a nightmare, but certainly not reality.
 
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