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Main bearings (2010)

Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by twinshocker, May 10, 2010.

  1. twinshocker

    twinshocker

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2010
    Hello,

    Is there any way to get the inner race of the main bearings from the crank without a special puller ?
    The race looks absolutely Ok but my new bearings (NJ306E) have a different diammeter than the old ones (3nu06) so i cannot use the new bearing with he old inner race
     
  2. DogT

    DogT VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2009
    Mick in his DVD says you can beat it off with a chisel if you are real careful. Take note that there is a raised edge on the journal, so don't go sticking something real sharp in there or you will mess up that flat edge. Of course you will beat up the bearing getting it off, but you have a new one. I got mine off that way. Take it real slow and alternate your whacks. Look at your timing side journal, the bearing probably came off the crank on that side and you will see what I mean about the raised area the inner bearing rests on. Make a chisel with a flat side and use that flat side against the crank (kind of like a wood chisel, but not nearly so sharp). Keep putting things under the chisel as it starts coming off.

    I would have taken it to a shop if I could have found one with a bearing puller rather that beating on it but buying that puller is real expensive.

    Dave
    69S
     
  3. twinshocker

    twinshocker

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2010
    Thanks Dave i will try that but will it really work ?
    The surface is hard as hell !!!! :twisted:
     
  4. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Auto Zone will loan you a bearing puller for free.
     
  5. daveparry

    daveparry

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2009
    Use a mini angle grinder (very carefully!) to grind about half way through then split with a chisel,
    Dave.
     
  6. builder

    builder

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2009
    Step 1 - sharpen a chisel
    Step 2 - heat up the inner race with a torch
    Step 3 - tap the chisel between the race and the cheek of the crank

    Once you heat up the race, it doesn't take much to get a sharp chisel between the race and the cheek. You should be able to move the race enough to get a regular puller behind the race. The "special" pullers are pretty cheap if you can get one of the Chinese units.

    OR go to a vintage VW garage and they'll pull that race off in about .2 seconds.
     
    freddie1105 likes this.
  7. DogT

    DogT VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2009
    Builder,
    With a sharp chisel, you risk damaging the cheek on the crank. That is why I said "don't use a real sharp chisel". I know, I ended up with a bunch of little marks on the outside of the cheek and I had to take a file to the cheek. You don't want to be beating on the cheek, just the flat surface of the crank outside the cheek. Like I say, make a chisel flat on one side and tapered on the other, not too sharp.

    [​IMG]

    Twinshocker,
    Yes, it can be done. It takes a while and heat would probably help, take your time, I did it. Cutting it off would work too, if you don't damage the crank.

    Dave
    69S
     

    Attached Files:

  8. twinshocker

    twinshocker

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2010
    Thank you guys for all the hints i finally got that thing off.

    I grinded a little groove into the surface with a small pneumatic drill and a tungsten-type very hard cutter.
    Then i could put the chisel onto that edge and hammer it of a little bit until i could fit a two-arm puller.

    Next question : I took the crankshaft apert to clean it in the middle. Is there any trueing required after bolting it together again or can i just mount it into the cranccase ? How much sideplay should this crankshaft have ?
     
  9. builder

    builder

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2009
    Fair enough...I just prefer the chisel to be very sharp, I haven't hit a journal yet. With that inner race warmed up it only take a little "tap" to get the race to move away from the cheek. Then again I haven't had to use this method in many years as a puller is readily available for $40 brand new.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 30305.html

    This will pull the inner races off with ease. It takes longer to pull it out of the box that is does to actually pull the races.
     
  10. mike provence

    mike provence

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2004
    Gents,
    We are talking about the crankshaft for goodness sake. Get the correct bearing separator, and try never to tell anyone you took a chisel to a crank bearing journal! The correct puller should cost about $30-50. A replacement for your crank is a bit more. Journal repair also not too cheap.
     
  11. DogT

    DogT VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2009
    Builder,
    Yes, I didn't hit the journal, just chewed up the cheek a bit on the outside edge.

    Twinshocker,
    According to Mick's DVD he just bolted them back together, make sure you use new nuts and bolts on the crank and on the con-rod bolts and nuts too. Side play depends if you are using 2 roller bearings or 1 roller bearing and 1 ball bearing (timing side). Side play is not adjusted with 1 ball bearing in the timing side, with both roller bearings, I have seen everything from .005 to .02". I am going for between .005-.010 on mine http://www.oldbritts.com/11_067569.html and http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... e-releases. Norvil has a real good price on the bottom end rebuild kit if you need the nuts and bolts.

    Dave
    69S
     
  12. freddie1105

    freddie1105

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2019
    heads up for uk owners. just bought bearing puller for main bearing inner races from screwfix. similar to rgm. 19.99
     
    jan nelder likes this.
  13. freddie1105

    freddie1105

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2019
    just tried it. unless you can start off with a chisel, not fit for purpose. :(
     
  14. freddie1105

    freddie1105

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2019
    sorry chaps
     
  15. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Made from the finest Chinese plasticine I presume ?
     
    ashman likes this.
  16. ashman

    ashman

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    It always pay to pay that extra for a decent puller, small investment even if only used once but while you have your Norton its good to have every tools that is needed for it and all my bikes.

    Ashley
     
  17. oldmikew

    oldmikew

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2015
    Agree but its finding them
    Bought mine from a dealer clearout about 40years ago... looks of US manufacture.. good kit.. but given Freddie's location would try Norman White or maybe Russels of Falconroad London both ofwhomwill have the necessary kit
     
  18. marshg246

    marshg246 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2015
    Crank half in a bowl of ice water. Mapp gas torch heating the bearing journal. Two utility knife blades - one each side of the bearing with the knife edge at the interface of the journal and crank. Light taps on the utility blades with an aluminum drift - be sure to alternate between sides.

    The ice water could just be water as the point is to protect the crank from excessive heat. The journal usually comes right off. Sometimes, the blades just get it to come up enough to get a puller on it or to use something thicker to lift them.
     
  19. Time Warp

    Time Warp .......back to the 70's. VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2012
    This one from back in 2010 for me but you need to be very careful, no chisels though.
    Then this with the inner heated with a heat gun.
    Makes life easy for the journal and the oil seal area that it part and parcel of it.
    Same going back on with a weight on the heated inner so it can not creep as it cools.

    s-l640.jpg

    This was the flywheel out of my Sunbeam that mounts on a large taper, hard enough that the usual lathe tip tools would not work.
    That was one of many bruises on it, just shows what determination can produce.

    IMG_1502.JPG
     
  20. Time Warp

    Time Warp .......back to the 70's. VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2012
    I find it hard to believe Mick Hemming's would suggest such a Bogan method.
    If the inner race is going to be removed in that dodgy manner at least use fox wedges not a chisel which has an tip angle for cutting not wedging. :eek:
    Coming to you from a Boilermaker.

    A fox wedge.

    [​IMG]
     

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