You shouldn't need anything fancy to remove the two sleeve nuts-although they may be either 1/4 W (.525" A/F) hexagons (early models) or 7/16 A/F (late models).
Might want to spend 50 bucks on the Mick Hemmings DVD and save yourself some grief. You can break 50 dollars worth of parts pretty fast if you get heavy handed with it.
I ended up having to grind down the edges on the box end of the wrench to get at the rear nut. Bnot sure what year your working with, the later ones maybe had a bit more clearance than the 68.
I ended up having to grind down the edges on the box end of the wrench to get at the rear nut. Bnot sure what year your working with, the later ones maybe had a bit more clearance than the 68.
I didn't need to grind down a wrench to fit my '73. To torque the nut underneath the inlet ports I use a 1/4" Whit combination wrench. The box end is on the nut the open end fits slightly loose on the 1/2 square drive of my torque wrench. With the combination wrench at at or slightly less than a ninety degree angle the torque transmitted to the nut should match the click on the torque wrench.
For two sleeve nuts I use a short 7/16" x 3/8" double box end. The 7/16" end goes on the nut. I use a 3/8" hex key socket on my torque wrench to turn the 3/8" end of the combination wrench, which once again is at or slightly less than a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench.
Struggled with plain straight end wrench until I got the curved 1/4 w and lived happy ever since. Its about my most used handy wrench now. Ebay to vendors will have them. I did have to grind some meat off the ring to get clear clearance.
Hammers and chisels are also handy too many times.
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