Engine removal

Looking at pulling my engine back out of the frame but I don't want to remove the head and cylinder. I know I did it before when I changed the ISO's but its been a while. When I put the lower end in alone I was able to pivot it on the upper rear mount bolt and tip it far enough back to put the front mount on and lower into place, the opposite of what the Haynes manual says to do. Any hints/tips?

One (obvious) advantage with the head and cylinder removed is reduced weight.
I don't think I would or could do this by myself if the engine was complete.

MikeG said:

Looking at pulling my engine back out of the frame but I don't want to remove the head and cylinder. I know I did it before when I changed the ISO's but its been a while. When I put the lower end in alone I was able to pivot it on the upper rear mount bolt and tip it far enough back to put the front mount on and lower into place, the opposite of what the Haynes manual says to do. Any hints/tips?

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I use an engine hoist - no longer even close to strong enough for a complete Norton engine. It can be done with the head on but is quite a bit more likely to scratch things up.

With the head off and an engine hoist it is very easy - no need to remove the cylinders. The complete engine weighs about 96 pounds. The cylinders about 35 pounds. I haven't weighed a head but I'm guessing 20-25 pounds.

With the head off and the engine hoist rigged, take up tension, remove the front iso bolt (not those to the crankcase). Remove the three engine to cradle bolts. Lift engine enough to clear the front iso from the frame. Move engine forward so it's free from the cradle and it's out.

I have a plate I use screwed to the cylinders but you can just use straps secured around the cylinder to lift. If you don't have a hoist, but do have a helper, you can do basically the same thing if one of you can lift and manipulate 75 pounds while the other pulls the studs. Also, taking the head off without a helper is difficult if you are weak - with a helper it is very easy. The helper needs no knowledge - they simply need to get the oily pushrods up into the head while you lift and lean it back.

Scroll down here to August 19, 2022 to see it being done: https://gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Blue69S.aspx

I'm not pulling the head. I can get help lifting. Spent too much time getting head on and sealed properly less than 100 miles ago.

MikeG said:

Looking at pulling my engine back out of the frame but I don't want to remove the head and cylinder. I know I did it before when I changed the ISO's but its been a while. When I put the lower end in alone I was able to pivot it on the upper rear mount bolt and tip it far enough back to put the front mount on and lower into place, the opposite of what the Haynes manual says to do. Any hints/tips?

Click to expand...

The front isolastic mount is not that hard to remove and replace with the engine in place. I do that when checking the shims. Once that ISO is out the rest of the engine isn’t bad.

MikeG said:

I'm not pulling the head. I can get help lifting. Spent too much time getting head on and sealed properly less than 100 miles ago.

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So, why are you removing the engine?

I recall someone laying the bike on it's side on top of an old tire, unbolting the engine, then maneuvering the engine clear, while standing the frame back up, leaving the engine behind resting on the tire. Obviously, you remove the fuel tank, side covers, and the entire primary and all the other necessary stuff... I've never done it, but it sounds like it might work....

But personally, I'd take the head and barrels off because it never hurts to look at the cam, the barrels, the pistons, and the rods to "see where you are at"... but that's my paranoia..

I do it as you said, tilting the engine back on the top rear bolt, then fitting the front mount. I've done it by myself, but my wife has gotten good at sliding in the bolts as needed. If the engine is out, I always build it on the bench, then fit it complete.