There have ben numerous mentions of the LED conversion for our bikes in several threads...I just thought it was interesting to note the idea is gaining acceptance...even though it will mean the manufactureres will be able to sell less replacement parts to the buyers of thier vehicles. Normally the manufacturers make darned sure that certain things will break after a set number of months/years and that we, the buyer will have to return to the dealer and get a new one...the thought of them actually building/installing something that will cut into thier replacement part sales profits...is an interesting development. I'm sure most of the forum members have been informed as to the advantages of installing the LED conversion...just nice to see that we aren't the only ones who have woken up to this improvement. I already have one installed and wouldn't take it out again...it's worth the money. I ordered mine the day after you informed us you got rear-ended...I didn't want to be the next one :wink:
ya know only a brit would use the logic of making sure something breaks so he can sell a replacement.....the story used to go that general motors stopped making 283s because they couldnt sell enough replacement parts...if ya belive that one then you probably also belive that a smallblock 283 is the best thing since sliced bread....they are junk and the only advantage they had is that they were better than all the rest of the junk that everyone else had out at the time,they can however be made into not a bad motor but i digress...henry ford in his early days pioneered research at the wrecking yards to see what parts of his model t's did not wear out so that he could make parts more economically with the idea that all of the components would have the same lifespan over the useable life expectancy of the cars-ya notice that just about all cars and bikes reach a certain point where it seems everything needs to be gone over? this is part of the plan and it holds true for nortons too...be prepared to totally restore the bike even if it only really needs a valve job...when you get looking closely at things you will see that its probably time for rings and bearings and while is apart might as well do the and on and on until the whole shop is filled with what started as a tuneup....oh about the leds...princess auto now has 1157 led replacement lamps....they seem to be more resistant to vibration than incandescent lamps although canadian tire has long life 1157s-probably a heavier filament...watch out for bosch halogen headlights...they have a shield over the filament that breaks off and rattles around in the bulb....more bs later when i spot a topic that i can save the world from itself on 8)
The current shipment has been sent out, got mine on Monday. A VERY professional looking product, with ample instructions. I also got my repaired footpeg back for the beezer, so that one has gone on first. The install was easy (for an old electronics technician!), I only needed to shave the edge of the circuit board with my dremel to get it to fit in the lens properly (I think the lens had shrunk slightly over the years). He left plenty of room on the circuit board so there was no danger of cutting into a circuit trace. Definitely a much brighter light! Since I had not been able to ride the beezer since June and yesterday was a CLASSIC fall day here in the Puget Sound, I went for a ride. Ahhhhh the serenity, the cages were unusually well behaved yesterday so it was a great ride!
Next will be the Commando and then the Matchless. He made some extras so I better order one for the Victor project as well.
Oh, and from a technical standpoint, LED's do NOT last forever, they will wear out or fail just like any other chunk of silicon. But even with a high voltage setting, it will seem like they last forever when compared to a filament bulb. And since this manufacturer is not making light bulbs, this will not cut into his profits. If his product stands the test of time and vibration, word of mouth will take a long time to reach market saturation.
I am going to show him a circuit and see if he'll manufacture a solid state turn signal relay that will not need one of those load equalizers (which I think defeats half the purpose of a led turn signal).
Fellow who sells these LED kits was pleasant to deal with....I'd not be surprised to se he brings out a kit for the Lucas turn signals...not that I still have mine. They were so long and heavy that it took only a couple of years for me to put them of a shelf because they fell off anyway
When I got my kit...the instructions left some key facts and unmentioned....can you PDF these instructions so I can see if he decided to include my suggestions...just curious. Also...the wires were soldered on the bulb side of the board.....has he changed them to the rear? Mine got pinched by feeding them over the top of the board and shorted out the board...something that could be avoided by wiring them to the rear.....
Just , as said, curious.....mine works wonderful and I am happy with it, despite the small problems I had with installation
I am Bruce B. with bulbsthatlast4ever, the Creator/Designer of the Lucas LED Taillights discussed here. Thank you all for the kind words and suggestions.
These LED Boards were designed for optimal installation in a reproduction “Lucas” taillight assembly. Complete Turn-Key (taillight assembly w/ LED Board) units are also available for the ease of installation. Some modifications maybe required as mentioned in eariler post in Genuine Lucas Taillights.
To address the wire issues. Yes having the wires soldered to the back of LED is a good idea. However, the vibration will break a wire that has been soldered much easier than a crimped contact. That’s why I choose the plug-in wire assembly. Also soldering the wires to the board will require additional labor, thus adding additional cost. Most people not have a soldering iron or capability to do the repair themselves.
LEDs are Light Emitting Diodes, which are a solid-state silicon chip that admits photons when electric current passes through the material. LEDs are commonly rated at 100,000 hours (12 years) of continuous use under normal operating conditions. While a filament bulb will only last in the 100’s of hours of you are lucky. On these bikes, they are measured in times ridden.
As for the Installation Instructions for my LED Taillights, Niels prepared the instructions for the 564 LED Boards and Turn-Key units. I have asked Niels to assist me have with the other installation instructions at times settle down for me.
The 1157 Replacement LED Bulbs that you can buy off the self are limited by their design. :shock:
First off they are only for use with Negative Ground (Industry Standard Now). :?
Right after I posted on the 1157 I saw the polarity issue raised somewhere. Then I went to check my memory & sure enough the fixture on a MKIII points straight down.
Guess I'll be taking another look at your lights. Interesting note in your post about crimps taking vibration. Encouraging to those of us who can't solder.
Someone mentioned LED Turn Signals. I already exploded this avenue already about 2-3 years. I made about 25 sets, they were about $125.95 at the time. They did not too to well, so I discontinued them. :cry:
I found that the LED Taillights are more popular. Besides, most people remove the turn signals when they restore their bikes. Not me, I put a set of my redigned LED Turn Signals on my 1966 CA77, yes this a Honda. :shock:
Thanks for the replies. I have looked at the bulb replacement options in the past and thought the plug in 1157's didn't do what needs to be done. I had even briefly thought about doing something similar to your product but my electrical engineering knowledge is limited to much higher voltage stuff and quickly realized leds don't work on 120v :lol: Needless to say you've got me sold.
Don't have to worry about having a Honda, I suspect there are a few more Forum members out there that have them too (me included)
I have purchased a few of these new (BLUE) Super white H4 globes..
These globes are impressive, boasting that the input remains at 60/55 w and outputting 100 w plus..
On the face of it they are GREAT .. although on the other half's Toyota, the low beam pattern, while basic dip pattern is good ~ the over all pattern is a tad 'washy' .. but ~ the illumination is fantastic.
We were told that they are (locally) illegal.. but the local constabulary simply laughed and confirmed they have no problem ~
So with that in mind the current draw ~ will not or should not effect the Norton/ Lucas alternator ..
you mean there's people out there who look down on Hondas?!
First bike was a CL90. Fun & indestrucible. Lets see; was an Elsie & a couple of xl'x back there too. Friend had a 305 with the mystery link shrouded front end that left a definite impression on me. Very fast round trip on a pickup & an unscathed survival of a 2 up airborne side trip.
Wish I had good info to add here. Picking up some nice bits of practical info for choices on lights & electrics in this thread.
I'm just wiring up the Commando now, and have to say that the coolest things I've done in that area have all beeen with the help of Jim Bush of Eastern Beaver.
I'm using his H4 headlight relay kit with a Sylvania Silverstar 60/55w halogen, and - wow - its bright. Much brighter than it was with the same bulb powered through the key-switch/lucas handlebar switch combo.
We also put together a prototype ignition relay, fuse block kit that's pretty cool (though I'm still trying to find a clean location to mount it).
I need a place to mount my Sparxx regulator as well, and the area around the battery tray is becoming mighty crowded. Actually thought about getting a narrower, taller AGM battery and trying to mount it sideways.
In an earlier post, I mentioned that I have discontinued the Lucas LED Winkers (Turn Signals). At that time, that was true.
Sometime has passed since that post, I have received enough requests for the LED Winkers to bring them back again. I have improved the design and added a few new features, like a Running Light Option built into each LED Board. Here's a picture of the kit , http://www.bulbsthatlast4ever.com/image ... 2b-kit.jpg :shock: