This is ( partly ) because youre not suposed to KICK it .
' Kick Start ' is a misnomer . ( or for multis and japers)
THE Lever is used to position the pistons just at T.D.C.
(or whatever)
THEN the clutch is used to free the lever and position it at the top of its travel , ENGAGED .
Sidestand down you'll tear the mount off , or bugger the fit , as per ' Foot Crank '
( Thats the problem with CARS these days ! Theres nowhere to put the CRANK HANDLE ! :shock: )
Now where was I ?
The CONTRAPTION is SET ! :mrgreen:
Throwing the motorcycle a little to ones right , Right foot on lever , Knee BENT ! one throws oneself
Upward till the Right Leg is fully extended and STRAIGHT , and the lever Swings Through under your
full weight for THREE Cylinders of Compression . Just .
Or catapults you over the bars ( just kidding ) .
Haveing the FOLDING LEVER angled forward ( just ) of square is essential . AND free of slop .
put in a shim or close the gap , if theres any ' wobble ' , the lever should ROTATE . ONLY .
Not Wiggle .( like one of those cheap Japanese things .
)
' Blueprint ' here by dressing / removing all burrs , and ARC welding the heel where it butts , if nesesary .
Then Grinding the weld to give a angle of say 2 to 3 degree forward sweep.this saves the foot slipping off and barking the shin on the shaft .
The same attention should be givin to the cleanliness and fit of the Lever to the Splines . A ( Copper) mallet / Vise etc being used to adjust the fit to Close and Parrallel. i.e. remove any ' twist ' at the botom of the shaft fitting ( missalignment ) .
Wrapping the parts in a damp cloth when welding , other than the immediate working area will avoid splatter and most discolouration .
I always considered the Lever on the I.O.M. P.R. bikes a good deal more sensible , the footrests nearly at seat hight !
Unfortuanately these will foul Std. pipes .