Lineslinger
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My method is to close the fuel tap immediately after I switch the engine off.
I open the tap immediately before I turn the ignition key to on position prior to starting.
Hard Start (again)
- Thread starter Big_Jim59
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I open the tap immediately before I turn the ignition key to on position prior to starting.
jbruney
VIP MEMBER
Sounds the same as my drill.
I run twin Mk2 Amals and as I've aged, lost weight and weakened the bike can be hard to start cold. The spark is strong, the plugs are dry, it's on full choke and the floats are levels are bang on. I've found that if I turn both air screws in by 1/4 to 1/2 turn, choke still on the bugger fires up first kick. I now after setting the idle mixture correctly turn the air screws in an extra 1/8 turn. I now find the old girl takes at the most four kicks to fire her up. Tick over slowed a little but otherwise has not been effected.
Is it my slow kick not creating enough vacuum to draw the fuel through the choke and primary jets?
Is it my slow kick not creating enough vacuum to draw the fuel through the choke and primary jets?
Its even worse on singles, my fix on my B44 is extended throttle stop screws and the fitting of a choke. The choke does not help much except on hot starts but the extended throttle stop screwed in 1 to 1 1/2 turns does. Then as the bike warms up after 1/2 mile I unscrew the throttle stop, with the stop extended a gloved hand does it easily, on a twin it makes it more difficult as they need to be balanced but some guide marks would help.
concours
VIP MEMBER
Enricheners.
Not at what they cost. More like 'impoverishers'.
marshg246
VIP MEMBER
Sounds like your enrichers are not fully doing their job (rubber tips not sealing). Turning the air screws in compensates somewhat. You probably need new cold start plungers (Amal part 2622/079).
Do you have the correct phenolic spacers fitted ? https://amalcarb.co.uk/mk-i-concentric-series/900-series/gaskets/spacers/phenolic-spacer-32mm.html
The plungers and seats are in good condition and are sealing. If they were leaking it wouldn't matter on cold starting as they will be half or fully open.
Don't need them Mk2 are mounted on rubber tubes. The phenolic spacers stop engine heat boiling the float bowls dry.
What I forgot the mention was when I get my Grandson to pop, a fit young man, round it fires easily for him.
Any how, it's firing up for me now with ease and turning in the air screw a tad and if required turned back once running might help other old beggars like me.
And the bike is running really well too.
Happy days and the sun is shining a rare thing here on the NW coast of England.
marshg246
VIP MEMBER
You lost me. They are not chokes - they are enrichers that enrich by the rubber at the tip of the plunger blocking the hole at the bottom.
Indeed they are not chokes . I know exactly what they are its just a habit I and I'm sure others have to name the cold start system on a carburetted petrol motor.
All vacuum cleaners in the UK are often called Hoovers when clearly most are not.
Sorry for the confusion.
Your not alone ....Indeed they are not chokes . I know exactly what they are its just a habit I and I'm sure others have to name the cold start system on a carburetted petrol motor.
All vacuum cleaners in the UK are often called Hoovers when clearly most are not.
Sorry for the confusion.
I pleased to say she's still starting well with very little effort from me.
Your not alone ...meaning...Hoovers ...vacuum cleaners...and another example
Tappets.... lifters ....cam followers
I understood what you meant...enriches chokes...I ran MkIIs on Commando's for years...and i still call them chokes...pleased she's starting well for you mate...
baz
VIP MEMBER
Don't worry about itIndeed they are not chokes . I know exactly what they are its just a habit I and I'm sure others have to name the cold start system on a carburetted petrol motor.
All vacuum cleaners in the UK are often called Hoovers when clearly most are not.
Sorry for the confusion.
It took me 50 years to figure out what "sticky back plastic" was
I have Premier concentrics on my bike, and took the choke slides out to put blanking screws in the top of the carbs.
(having once had a breakdown when one section of a choke cable broke and the spring closed the choke slide and made for a very rough running engine)
I often find that from a cold start the carbs need 're-tickling' as soon as the engine starts, otherwise it will cut out after running for a few seconds. A bit of quick handiwork required while sitting on the bike and holding the throttle and tickling the carbs. But fine once the engine has warmed up a little.
(having once had a breakdown when one section of a choke cable broke and the spring closed the choke slide and made for a very rough running engine)
I often find that from a cold start the carbs need 're-tickling' as soon as the engine starts, otherwise it will cut out after running for a few seconds. A bit of quick handiwork required while sitting on the bike and holding the throttle and tickling the carbs. But fine once the engine has warmed up a little.
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