Interstate Freshening
- Thread starter swooshdave
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After listening to Leo Goff give a talk about Nortons at Barber in 2010 i have started using Valvoline V851, which is listed as off-road only, and has ZDDP in it. I had to order it from my local NAPA, since i couldnt find anyone that stocks it near me.
Rotella is easy to get though.
The interstate cam issues from this thread were in no way related to V851 oil - it never got any of that.
Rotella is easy to get though.
The interstate cam issues from this thread were in no way related to V851 oil - it never got any of that.
Kvinnhering
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Reading with interest about the choice of oil for our dear commandos.
In Europe as supplying Shell Rotella in several versions;
Rotella T6
Rotella T5
Rotella Triple
Rotella T3
Rotella T1
Is this Jim term you recognize? And which version would you choose?
Jan Egil
In Europe as supplying Shell Rotella in several versions;
Rotella T6
Rotella T5
Rotella Triple
Rotella T3
Rotella T1
Is this Jim term you recognize? And which version would you choose?
Jan Egil
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Kvinnhering said:
T6 is 5-40 synthetic- I use it in my old Mercedes and have used it in my Norton. The oil consumption is a little higher with this oil than the 15-50 Mobil 1 I normally use. I still use it in the winter.
T5 is 10-30 synthetic- too thin
T3 or Triple is 15-40 conventional oil- it works well
T1 is mono-grade conventional oil- I have not used it. Jim
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My brother was busy yesterday. I wish I could have been there to help.
Head sent to Jim for freshening. More parts will be sent his way shortly.
Spare MkIII cases make a great spacer.
22 thou end play
Replace the bearings or not? Seems like the safe way to go is just to get new. But are the old ones actually bad?
Head sent to Jim for freshening. More parts will be sent his way shortly.
Spare MkIII cases make a great spacer.
22 thou end play
Replace the bearings or not? Seems like the safe way to go is just to get new. But are the old ones actually bad?
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I would definitely replace the big end shells and the nuts for the rod bolts. As far as the superblends I would look them over close. Unless they have damage [scratches] from debris running through them they are not likely to be worn out for 100,000 or so. Jim
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I will never re use a rod bolt again unless its been test examined and has not been involved in an engine failure or raced. Best I can glean form years of listening to reports and having my own is the nuts are not the weak link to worry about though certainly vital and cheap enough to always renew too. How brave are you and how well can you control your mental pensiveness flying down the road as your only test proof no impending doom taking it so perfectly easy and nice > as the last bit of corrosion falls following the metal grain lines from invisible age-stress crack that has nothing at all to do with high loading throttle use, just tick toc tick toc till would fall apart on the bench.
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comnoz said:
You'll probably get the parts sent to you for your evaluation.
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swooshdave said:
Replace the bearings or not? Seems like the safe way to go is just to get new. But are the old ones actually bad?
The con rods have no perceivable play.
Still do the big ends?
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When I put Trixie's rods on crank I felt some undue resistance and saw uneven contact evidence on shells so took razor and scraped em down even, over a few tries till the rods would move with only slight resistance to just gravity. Never heard of anyone else doing this on their Norton or using plasti strips to mic the gap, or if its a waste of time as self corrects on first kick off?
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Big ends will be replaced. If Bill and Jim agree on something there's probably good cause to listen. :mrgreen:
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So rods will come off. Then check the journals. If they are shiny then measure them to be sure. If they are scored then get them ground.
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There is some things that i carnt stop looking at, and this cam is on my most "viewed" list.
Bob Z. said:I imagine that the rocker/valve clearance would be rapidly be increasing with such cam wear.
In addition to feeling the power loss I suppose observing the valve movement/arc length would show that the valve was not opening fully.
I had a Mark 3 cam that looked like yours after about 35K miles.
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Splat [what a handle ugh] I had to learn this ancient accepted skill-task and it worked out better than expected. Should look it up in case it happens to someone you know. If you are a real mechanic you put in the check tape stuff what ever they call it and torque down the remove and place on scale to get clarance at that spot. The shade tree way is assemble and turn then scrap off the witness marks in cycles till all even as can be by hand job.
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Bearing scraping was/is standard pratice ...i was doing it 40 years ago.but modern maching as almost elimated it today. Three corner scraper and engineers blue.
hobot said:
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