Indicator Cancel

I seem to constantly forget to turn off my indicators after a turn.

I had this problem all the time on a Kawasaki KZ400 when I started riding. I had thought about a buzzer, but at the time I was no electrical whiz kid and with no Internet and older gents at the motorcycle shop laughed at me when I suggested such a thing, I gave up on the idea.

When I later got a CB750, I didn't forget. The CB I could see the indicator out of the corner of my eye, whereas on the KZ I could not. As someone here mentioned, your post reminds me to wire a secondary LED for each side - as I can see how I will likely do the same thing. OK I'm going to try putting something like this (as seen on eBay) on the inside of the headlight ears. This should be bright enough to see.
 

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Seems like one of the modern, self cancelling options is much easier then fooling around with buzzers/lights and safer too since it self cancels...
 
maybe a dumb question, but how do you modify the indicator switch to make it momentary? is it a simple matter of doing some cutting and filing on the stock switch lever, or is there something available as "plug and play?" any kind of instructions?
On the Kisan SignalMinder there were instructions and some foam rubber bits to make the Triumph switch not lock to one side or other. Completely reversible proceedure, no permanent alterations.
 
My 1972 cb750 has a factory buzzer that goes on when your turn signal is on. Would be pretty easy and cheap since parts exist.
 
I emailed SignalDynamics about their self cancelling module, asking whether it would work on a positive earth bike and their reply was:

"Our turn signal module must be installed on the positive wire leading to your light. If you have a wire you can install it on it should work just fine (just install the power source and switch inputs to the appropriate positive and negative connections). If the light uses the frame for the positive then it would not work.

Just a note: If your lights use the frame for the positive; you could use the outputs of the turn signal module to activate a relay to make and break the negative wire leading to the light to make the module work for that application."

I'm far from an expert on electrics but I think the suggestion of an added relay would work?
 
I ordered one like Ludwig's, so I'll see how it works. thanks Ludwig...
+1 I normally cancel quite well - at least I know it won't be on for ages after I turn,
You saw the instructions I posted in #28 on this thread?
Cheers
Rob
 
Just a note: If your lights use the frame for the positive; you could use the outputs of the turn signal module to activate a relay to make and break the negative wire leading to the light to make the module work for that application."

I'm far from an expert on electrics but I think the suggestion of an added relay would work?
same here - far from an expert - ;) ;)

help me out here - MY ELECTRICAL THEORY IS A BIT RUSTY -- just off the top of my head - i'm thinking you'll need two (2) SPST relays, one for the RH, and one for the LH indicator circuits. you will need to isolate the turn signal switch and run it in series with SignalDynamics timing device. the (right and left) turn signal switch outputs should connect to the control coils of two relays - one right and one left. the corresponding relay output switch for each will connect to individual R/L turn signal circuits -- OR AM I OVER THINKING THIS?

(edit) excuse my artwork - arthritis in the hands is acting up a bit this AM. this is what i'm thinking...

Indicator Cancel
 
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same here - far from an expert - ;) ;)

help me out here - MY ELECTRICAL THEORY IS A BIT RUSTY -- just off the top of my head - i'm thinking you'll need two (2) SPST relays, one for the RH, and one for the LH indicator circuits. you will need to isolate the turn signal switch and run it in series with SignalDynamics timing device. the (right and left) turn signal switch outputs should connect to the control coils of two relays - one right and one left. the corresponding relay output switch for each will connect to individual R/L turn signal circuits -- OR AM I OVER THINKING THIS?
...and? How does this set-up solve the issue?
One of us needs help.
 
same here - far from an expert - ;) ;)

help me out here - MY ELECTRICAL THEORY IS A BIT RUSTY -- just off the top of my head - i'm thinking you'll need two (2) SPST relays, one for the RH, and one for the LH indicator circuits. you will need to isolate the turn signal switch and run it in series with SignalDynamics timing device. the (right and left) turn signal switch outputs should connect to the control coils of two relays - one right and one left. the corresponding relay output switch for each will connect to individual R/L turn signal circuits -- OR AM I OVER THINKING THIS?

Yes, you are over thinking it. If you need a relay at all, one powering the flasher will do. The flasher powers the pole of the L/R selector switch, which powers the L or R circuits..
 
...and? How does this set-up solve the issue?
One of us needs help.
I know I need help, so no argument here - :D

(no flames) confused on what you think the issue is - ??? I thought the issue was using the timing device (which needs to be wired with the conventional negative ground) with bikes that use positive ground - or am I missing something?
 
Yes, you are over thinking it. If you need a relay at all, one powering the flasher will do. The flasher powers the pole of the L/R selector switch, which powers the L or R circuits..
confused - I understand the flasher thing, but how do you incorporate the timing device with the flasher? from SignalDevice instructions, it indicates the device need to be wired with the conventional negative ground.
 
I seem to be missing something here and i'm clearly in over my head. time for me to move on....
 
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I am not familiar with the SignalDynamics device, but if typical to most such devices, the case of the device is isolated from the negative (black) lead. If so, it only requires the black lead to be connected to the negative side of the battery, or regulator circuit. The red lead then powers up the flasher, and ultimately, the signal lamps complete the circuit taking the power to earth.

Slick
 
I know I need help, so no argument here - :D

(no flames) confused on what you think the issue is - ??? I thought the issue was using the timing device (which needs to be wired with the conventional negative ground) with bikes that use positive ground - or am I missing something?
Sorry - I thought you were solving how to make the indicators cancel - couldn't see how your relays fixed this.
 
The Mo Stop looks interesting. No issue with the Norton's Positive ground?
I'm a bit confused about all this, but according to the Mo Stop instructions the Mo Stop needs to operate negative earth. Their instructions read:
"Make sure you connect the mo.stop in the right polarity. Connect the red cable in direction +12V and the black cable in
direction earth. A short operation in reverse polarity (<5s) will not damage the mo.stop. In this case the connected lamp will
permanently illuminate. An operation longer than 5 seconds in reverse polarity will destroy the device. Please check the polarity
of the connection cables with a voltmeter before connection and operation."
So how does this device operate on a positive earth bike?
 
I'm a bit confused about all this, but according to the Mo Stop instructions the Mo Stop needs to operate negative earth. Their instructions read:
"Make sure you connect the mo.stop in the right polarity. Connect the red cable in direction +12V and the black cable in
direction earth. A short operation in reverse polarity (<5s) will not damage the mo.stop. In this case the connected lamp will
permanently illuminate. An operation longer than 5 seconds in reverse polarity will destroy the device. Please check the polarity
of the connection cables with a voltmeter before connection and operation."
So how does this device operate on a positive earth bike?
As the directions state: connect the red lead in the direction of +12. For a pos earth bike, this simply means connect the red on earth, or on the earth side of any intermediate device.

Slick
 
My Mostop is coming on friday. they reccomend a 10 fuse in the circuit, so I'm going to add that too. I'll report back either my wiring success or my loss of $52. + shipping. I find their written instructions to be unclear and poorly worded.
 
I don't see a need for relays. Relays are great for taking high current draw away from switchgear and getting good current flow to high draw things like old style headlights. ( not LED)

Even incandescent indicators draw very low current. Led indicators draw next to nothing. So little that some flashers do not recognize the current and won't flash without some added electrical components.
The SD unit doesn't have that problem.


The Signal Dynamics unit has an epoxy case, so it will be isolated from the bike.
As long as everything in the indicator circuit is isolated from the bike, then that circuit could be wired up with polarity as shown on the Signal Dynamics diagram.
That's my take on the SD info as posted by BSA boss.

Glen
 
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