in over my head again

hobot said:

Taken I'm told at a Harley party that yearly burnt up some non American brands but eventually shut down when peoples cars and tour buses also lit up in later too wild of gatherings.

Click to expand...

i'd have gone to jail for manslaughter shortly after finding someone had done that to my bike.

Dont ya just love how passionate we Norton oweners are.

Phil

primary cover off:


bit of metal sludge:


kinda gross under there:


gross here, too:


this didn't work (and bent one of my stator studs):


probably because i forgot about this:


...how does that thing come off? pull, screw, what?

also, what's the deal w/ this tool:


the little nut on bottom is supposed to screw onto the clutch screw, yes? but it's BARELY big enough to mate the clutch screw with the puller. once i got the clutch out, the spring tension chipped the first 45-degrees of thread off the clutch screw when i tried to remove the tool. stupid.

also, i've read a few threads on the engine sprocket. the holes in it are 5/16 UNF, but how far apart are they? i think if i drill two holes in my clutch tool and turn it around backwards, it would make a decent sprocket tool too, no?

decided i'm going to ship the engine and transmission to grandpaul... the army gives me money, it doesn't give me time :x

Ha I was just going down my long long list of bad parts and surprises - then you pop up with a alternator rotor come a part leaving is core hung on the crank end with no off the shelf too existing to pull it off. If not able to heat the snot out of it and pry off I'd take to welder to weld a big nut or washer around it to grab on with slide puller.

I had to look sideways to figure out you make shift puller and would have poop'd my pant if it had worked instead of bending a stud. Risky to bend back as may have weakened the Al but its not unheard of to weld them back too.

A steering wheel puller from auto parts can pull off the sprokect, but just barely able to stand the strain if sprocket really wedged on corroded fused. HI HEAT is your friend here on the sprocket till oil about burns off hot. A hooked puller has no place to use on Norton but one special kind to pull TS pinion gear. A flat robust square stock bar about 4" long with slots has a couple places of need.

The pronged clutch spring tool uses the big bolt in it to screw into the hole the clutch rod adjuster with thin lock nut is still in the way in the photo. It has no use in the spring removal tool or process. Sounds like your part order expanded a bit more. Live and learn eh. Military and Commando's can test ya man hood.
Bolt in spring puller may not be long enough and just a trick to leave that one in there. Screw nut up bolt head, screw bolt into clutch hole a few good turns then screw nut down on puller till spring just falls away. Last time I did it i just screwed in the bolt and it came away fine and went back by unscrewing bolt. So I guess the nut is just to store the bolt with the puller. Live and learn eh.

"Always use the right tool for the job"

Posi-Lock thin-jaw puller is invaluable for BritBike fettling. ESPECIALLY Triumph clutch hub! It'll pay for itself on the first use. I like the 3" because it can handle it all, although the 4" will JUST fit in the tight spots, and can handle bigger stuff.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 09843508-2

that thing works on engine sprockets, too? it looks like you can take the claws off and use the cage alone for the clutch... if the three arms come off that little disc on the screw and can accomodate the engine sprocket, it may well just be worth 100+ bucks.

So not to confuse ya the Norton clutch basket slips on/off by hand only the needs a puller.
Ain't no way claw puller can grip a crank sprocket or pulley nor crank bearings which need chisels or chisel puller to get moving and finish off. The 2 ton tin jaw puller might grab the cam sprocket and pinon gear but the jaws look a bit wide to do so from here. [would be educational to list what thin jaw puller has or can pull off a Norton Commando]

To get off a slightly stuborn cam sprocket I use some 5-6" long flat pry bars, identical to those used in house framing and stud and nail levering out. Also helpful to get sticky covers started and lifted.

Then theres the swing arm and rocker spinde pullers that axle or iso or bin sourced bolts fit the bill.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... C0Q8gIwAg#

my original goal was to buy that lisle puller for the sprocket, but... now i have a f'ing rotor center to remove. looks like i'm throwing down for the posi-lock, should have update later today.

I was able to use a beam style steering wheel puller to remove that gear. It was a tool I already owned and I was happy to find another use for it. If you need to purchase one, all the big Auto Wholesales carry them and they are cheep and versatile. The key for me was keeping the tool aligned as I applied torque with the center bolt. Once it was tensioned I gave the gear a wrap, on the inside, with my ball peen hammer and it popped right off. FYI, remember not all the nuts are right hand thread!

I think you will find some useful information below, replies to my inquirey about special tools.
Gary

post91315.html#p91315

What you are trying to do with that three jaw puller is just plain wrong.
You need a simple two bolt puller as shown previously and here post91315.html#p91315. Get some tention on it and be sure the pressure screw is square. Get some heat on what's left of the rotor, verify the tension on the puller and give the screw a pop with a hammer. Add tension and heat and pop with a hammer. Add tension and heat and pop with a hammer. Add tension and heat and pop with a hammer, all the while making sure that the screw stays square. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! The puller MUST be applied square and true being equal at the mounting bolt into the gear.

soturi said:

the little nut on bottom is supposed to screw onto the clutch screw, yes?

Click to expand...

No, you're supposed to remove the adjusting screw and nut from the diaphragm spring, and screw the end of the puller bolt into the spring center. The nut just locks the screw in place. Then you tighten the other nut, the one between the bolt head and the tool, to compress the diaphragm spring. When the spring turns easily in the clutch basket, you can remove the snap ring.

Ken

right... well, i finally clearly understand what i did wrong w/ the clutch spring, but couldn't fix it. kept slipping out of my vise, and i can't really re-install it to take the adjuster screw/nut off. doesn't really matter i suppose, the thing is out and that's what i needed anyway.

today's progress:


(almost) ready for shipping:


btw, taking that engine out whole was an interesting process. i still don't really understand how i got it out, exactly... unbolted everything... fight... fight some more... oh hey, the engine's out!

the posi-lock worked for the rotor core, but i couldn't quite get it to take the engine sprocket off. i did manage to do this whilst whacking the sprocket, though:


so that's pretty cool. i suppose that makes up for the wicked deal i got on the posi-lock at sears - about half of the online price. w00t. bought a steering wheel puller and it popped the sprocket off with literally zero effort... i'll credit the posi-lock and the accompanying schwacking prior to purchasing the steering wheel puller with making it so easy.

also, here's this for y'all:


totally sweet steel tank that was flawless when i purchased it. then literally two blocks after loading it in my pickup truck i hit the biggest f'ing curb i've ever seen in my life and the bike dropped onto my side rails. :evil: so much pissed me off.

Aw man soturi I may have to stop looking in on your process even if refreshing in a way - as not me this time. I find motorcycles and Commando especially test my man hood to get back up and mend my ways and parts. Before I knew about AMC bearing bores being beaten wider, in trying to get a bearing seated so it'd stay in I escalated up my series of hammers and muscle till punched the whole bearing right through the shell, ugh. Usable Cdo shells run like $4-500 but Atlas ones are half the price and actually install better-easier, just in case you ever care ok,

If that was my inner cover chip I'd just JBWeld it, light grease outer cover and slap together, wipe off excess and good to go over night, then silver-Al paint the spot as on underside anyway. It does drool if not set up enough first so mask and maybe clay to help dam it up till it does. Can work it with metal tools too.

Btw you do know about brake fluid once tank all filled in and painted?
You do have a charged fire exhingisher handy?
Almost lost shed and two bikes and big power station/battery bank when trash leaves tongue of flame tickled up to shed tin and went right out - but not before it started a smolder in the particle board backing, unnoticed till sparks-smoke shooting out the eves. Just got flames down before half used CO2 ran out. Then it was me running out of breath carrying 5 gal buckets to put the embers out that kept flaming up. Wife had stomped out to bitch at me for burning side of slope and was in a foot tapping arms crossed attitude I'd tried to poo poo as all under control...

Wait till ya sit on finished bike and start making motor sounds and turning forks some till sideways in a messed up heap. That and much more always lurking and lurking and ...

Way to go, Matt.

The hard part is done. Too bad about the tank, that stuff only seems to happen to me (my Dreer special has 2 gouges in the original prototype paint job), so I'm glad the pain is being spread a little more evenly (not gloating, mind you).

I can fix that chip real easily and you'll never notice it.

I like the laptop right there on the parts shelf; THAT'S a shop!

My factory Trixie steel Roadster tank ended up worse than yours TWICE. First was 3 wks careful new use till deer strike then again on hitting ruts going into ditch to avoid surprise road grader filling THE Gravel path. Looks perfect again with a lb or so of Bondo on each side.

bondo would just fill in the dent, right? certainly an option, but i was thinking one of these:

a) cut off bottom. push out crease/dent from inside while de-rusting and sealing.
b) taking the tank to a body shop and having them pop the crease out... i hear they can work magic with their ding-removing tools and such... and then just fill the tank w/ screws to de-rust it.

...i'm inclined towards a) because it seems like it would get the best results. thoughts, everybody?

a)

so, which one of these to drain the transmission?


...was quite startled when i tried to take one off and it started shifting the gears.

The drain is on the opposite side (back) of the gearbox housing.
It is the only bolt on that side.

sweenz

whow. how n00b am *i*??

thanks for straightening me out, sweenz. went out there to check it out and found that most of the oil had already leaked out of the clutch cable cap that i'd previously de-gasketed. i was all kinds of upside down and backwards oriented with that thing.

live and learn indeed.