Solenoid clicks but my Mk3 won't kick over

arcpoint said:
Did the jump test and failed. Not to find a solenoid solution. Andover Norton has one for $50 plus $10 shipping. Can't find any in the US. Anybody have any good suggestions? I've heard some people are using a mini solenoid or other car options with mixed results. And some are using a cheap relay which I know nothing about. Would prefer to stay as stock as possible whenever reasonable. But open to options.
Click to expand...
That's Now to find a solenoid solution.
 
Have you checked with Walridge in Canada? Solenoids for the Mk3 turn up on eBay from time to time. Buying used parts is always a risk. If you can't wait, you will have to order a new sample from either Canada or the UK (Andover).

- Knut
 
To re-plow yesterdays ground re load testing, I simply load test by measuring battery voltage with a high wattage headlamp connected across the terminals. I have not found a battery that held voltage in this circumstance turn out bad.
 
NORTSTER1974 said:
Just use a Ford solenoid, will get the part # in a couple days. Bolts right up.
Click to expand...
Solenoid clicks but my Mk3 won't kick over
 
mdt-son said:
Ford solenoid:

jettage

Post in thread 'Solenoid getting old.'

I found a Ford part that is a direct bolt-on, EBay,

New Starter Solenoid Relay Switch 3-Terminal for Ford SW1533 1693479C91 66-202, $23.19 USD​


- Knut
Click to expand...
Thanks! I ordered a 4 terminal one on Amazon for 16 bucks. Chinese built of course. Should do the job. Will save the old one and open it up and clean the brushes for a later date. Now to figure out where the oil leak is coming from. It's got me baffled. And I need to find some motor mount nuts. CCNW has full bolt kit for $99 but I just need a few unlock nuts to fit the existing bolts.
 
arcpoint said:
Thanks! I ordered a 4 terminal one on Amazon for 16 bucks. Chinese built of course. Should do the job. Will save the old one and open it up and clean the brushes for a later date. Now to figure out where the oil leak is coming from. It's got me baffled. And I need to find some motor mount nuts. CCNW has full bolt kit for $99 but I just need a few unlock nuts to fit the existing bolts.
Click to expand...
So, the engine TURNED OVER when you jumped the big terminals on the starter relay?
 
arcpoint said:
No, it didn't turn over. I put the cables on the battery.
Click to expand...
In post #4, @cliffa mentioned a quick, roadside test to prove viability of several components.


"Take a hefty chunk of metal and short the two pillar terminals on the solenoid, if the motor spins over, the solenoid is kaput, if not the battery is."
 
Last edited:
Had a similar issue on a different bike. Relay and battery turned out to be fine but due to a duff aftermarket start button, it wasn’t getting sufficient voltage to pull it in.
 
Stevo said:
Had a similar issue on a different bike. Relay and battery turned out to be fine but due to a duff aftermarket start button, it wasn’t getting sufficient voltage to pull it in.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I've got the original start button, which looks great on the outside but a bit oxidated on the inside. Has all worked great up until now. Will put the new solenoid on when I get it to see if that solves my problem then go from there.
 
concours said:
In post #4, @cliffa mentioned a quick, roadside test to prove viability of several components.


"Take a hefty chunk of metal and short the two pillar terminals on the solenoid, if the motor spins over, the solenoid is kaput, if not the battery is."
Click to expand...
Hafta admit I was a bit worried about shorting out the system, but can still try this I suppose. Have a solenoid coming in a few days anyway. And the starter didn't kick over with a jump so I'm thinking it's the solenoid. But will let you know. Any body know an American company where I can get engine mount 3/8" UNF self lock nuts? Andover has them but shipping is $25.
 
arcpoint said:
Hafta admit I was a bit worried about shorting out the system, but can still try this I suppose. Have a solenoid coming in a few days anyway. And the starter didn't kick over with a jump so I'm thinking it's the solenoid. But will let you know. Any body know an American company where I can get engine mount 3/8" UNF self lock nuts? Andover has them but shipping is $25.
Click to expand...
Just about any hardware store in the USA . Most likely less than 50 cents at Home Depot
 
Mk3 electrical Quagmire - help!

I'm trying not to lose all hope here but it's getting hard. Just had Dean Collinson do a top end job and due to his busy schedule and near retiredness so had to wait a few months.

Was riding close to the 200 mile break in period when the bike stopped running while on a road going about 40 mph. Was as if the kill switch was turned on. After trying to start the bike to no avail and thinking I ran the battery down I put a battery jumper on it and still nothing until I tried kicking it instead of the electric starter. When I kicked it, the electric starter kicked in and wouldn't shut off even when I took the key out and turned kill switch off. The starter kept going until running the battery down. So I took off the right handlebar switch and cleaned it out real good, then everytime I tried starting the bike it blew a fuse. So I got a new switch and hooked it up, and it still blows the fuse. Can someone point me to what's going on here? Please tell me I don't need to go down ten rabbit holes. I'm not an electrically savvy guy so please speak to me as if a 5th grader. Thanks in advance!
 
arcpoint said:
When I kicked it, the electric starter kicked in and wouldn't shut off even when I took the key out and turned kill switch off. The starter kept going until running the battery down.
Click to expand...
That sounds more like a solenoid failure rather than a handlebar switch problem except for the fuse blowing.
 
Back
Top