Solenoid clicks but my Mk3 won't kick over

arcpoint said:
Did the jump test and failed. Not to find a solenoid solution. Andover Norton has one for $50 plus $10 shipping. Can't find any in the US. Anybody have any good suggestions? I've heard some people are using a mini solenoid or other car options with mixed results. And some are using a cheap relay which I know nothing about. Would prefer to stay as stock as possible whenever reasonable. But open to options.
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That's Now to find a solenoid solution.
 
Have you checked with Walridge in Canada? Solenoids for the Mk3 turn up on eBay from time to time. Buying used parts is always a risk. If you can't wait, you will have to order a new sample from either Canada or the UK (Andover).

- Knut
 
To re-plow yesterdays ground re load testing, I simply load test by measuring battery voltage with a high wattage headlamp connected across the terminals. I have not found a battery that held voltage in this circumstance turn out bad.
 
NORTSTER1974 said:
Just use a Ford solenoid, will get the part # in a couple days. Bolts right up.
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Solenoid clicks but my Mk3 won't kick over
 
If you want to keep the bike original, you could drill out the rivets open it up and give the contacts a clean up, then use small nuts and bolts to hold it back together. Worth a try.
 
mdt-son said:
Ford solenoid:

jettage

Post in thread 'Solenoid getting old.'

I found a Ford part that is a direct bolt-on, EBay,

New Starter Solenoid Relay Switch 3-Terminal for Ford SW1533 1693479C91 66-202, $23.19 USD​


- Knut
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Thanks! I ordered a 4 terminal one on Amazon for 16 bucks. Chinese built of course. Should do the job. Will save the old one and open it up and clean the brushes for a later date. Now to figure out where the oil leak is coming from. It's got me baffled. And I need to find some motor mount nuts. CCNW has full bolt kit for $99 but I just need a few unlock nuts to fit the existing bolts.
 
arcpoint said:
Thanks! I ordered a 4 terminal one on Amazon for 16 bucks. Chinese built of course. Should do the job. Will save the old one and open it up and clean the brushes for a later date. Now to figure out where the oil leak is coming from. It's got me baffled. And I need to find some motor mount nuts. CCNW has full bolt kit for $99 but I just need a few unlock nuts to fit the existing bolts.
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So, the engine TURNED OVER when you jumped the big terminals on the starter relay?
 
arcpoint said:
No, it didn't turn over. I put the cables on the battery.
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In post #4, @cliffa mentioned a quick, roadside test to prove viability of several components.


"Take a hefty chunk of metal and short the two pillar terminals on the solenoid, if the motor spins over, the solenoid is kaput, if not the battery is."
 
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Had a similar issue on a different bike. Relay and battery turned out to be fine but due to a duff aftermarket start button, it wasn’t getting sufficient voltage to pull it in.
 
Stevo said:
Had a similar issue on a different bike. Relay and battery turned out to be fine but due to a duff aftermarket start button, it wasn’t getting sufficient voltage to pull it in.
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Interesting. I've got the original start button, which looks great on the outside but a bit oxidated on the inside. Has all worked great up until now. Will put the new solenoid on when I get it to see if that solves my problem then go from there.
 
concours said:
In post #4, @cliffa mentioned a quick, roadside test to prove viability of several components.


"Take a hefty chunk of metal and short the two pillar terminals on the solenoid, if the motor spins over, the solenoid is kaput, if not the battery is."
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Hafta admit I was a bit worried about shorting out the system, but can still try this I suppose. Have a solenoid coming in a few days anyway. And the starter didn't kick over with a jump so I'm thinking it's the solenoid. But will let you know. Any body know an American company where I can get engine mount 3/8" UNF self lock nuts? Andover has them but shipping is $25.
 
arcpoint said:
Hafta admit I was a bit worried about shorting out the system, but can still try this I suppose. Have a solenoid coming in a few days anyway. And the starter didn't kick over with a jump so I'm thinking it's the solenoid. But will let you know. Any body know an American company where I can get engine mount 3/8" UNF self lock nuts? Andover has them but shipping is $25.
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Just about any hardware store in the USA . Most likely less than 50 cents at Home Depot
 
Mk3 electrical Quagmire - help!

I'm trying not to lose all hope here but it's getting hard. Just had Dean Collinson do a top end job and due to his busy schedule and near retiredness so had to wait a few months.

Was riding close to the 200 mile break in period when the bike stopped running while on a road going about 40 mph. Was as if the kill switch was turned on. After trying to start the bike to no avail and thinking I ran the battery down I put a battery jumper on it and still nothing until I tried kicking it instead of the electric starter. When I kicked it, the electric starter kicked in and wouldn't shut off even when I took the key out and turned kill switch off. The starter kept going until running the battery down. So I took off the right handlebar switch and cleaned it out real good, then everytime I tried starting the bike it blew a fuse. So I got a new switch and hooked it up, and it still blows the fuse. Can someone point me to what's going on here? Please tell me I don't need to go down ten rabbit holes. I'm not an electrically savvy guy so please speak to me as if a 5th grader. Thanks in advance!
 
arcpoint said:
When I kicked it, the electric starter kicked in and wouldn't shut off even when I took the key out and turned kill switch off. The starter kept going until running the battery down.
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That sounds more like a solenoid failure rather than a handlebar switch problem except for the fuse blowing.
 
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