"Goof-proof" Anti-Drain Valve (ironjohns)

Status
Not open for further replies.
I wouldn't be without my oil shut-off valve which is interlinked with the ignition, no smoke on start-up, no draining of the crankcase etc. just turn the tap off if the bike is going to stand for more than a few days! Much as Dave 69S says,

Dave.
 
A solenoid valve that is held closed by a light spring is opened to flow only when current available, but would need decent charged/capacity battery not to drag down the ignition system so not really that good a mod in Cdo's and take back the suggestion of it.
 
While a solenoid valve may seem interesting, it does not flow as well as a (manual) ball valve ad it adds another failure possibility if it closes due to an electrical problem. I assume the valve used is opened when powered, if it was the other way, open when there is no power, the solenoid would drain the battery if the bike was not used for a while and then the engine would wetsump.

Jean
 
good day gentlemen been working like crazy making valves up as of this morning we will have all the out standing orders in the mail to every one that has ordered so fare and the last part of the order for the ajs matchless club us section parts specialists order if i have not responded to any one please excerpt my apology's i have been getting from 5 to 25 emails every day about them and its hard to keep up with all of them and do all my work there are a few from oz that i have tried to respond two that my e mails will not go thew to them don't know y but they can try to contact me threw the group e mail and try that way thanks every one for your patients on getting your valves out to u will be working on stock this week so it will not take so long on the next orders have a good day all ironjohn
 
ironjohns said:
This is the 1st proto type they are more refined now
Just some thing I am doing to many problems with what's out there this is the proto type the newest one is even shorter have a good one john
I have them for 6 and 12 volt systems
The new wet sump vale for the magneto bikes don’t turn it on it will not start its about as goof proof as I can make it even for use old guys that cant remember what we had for dinner last night
Click to expand...

Ironjohn is it possible to show us a picture and price of the 'newest one' ?
 
I don't think it is a 'non-problem'. Wet sumping is a real pain in the backside. Me bike is currently sitting in my garage with a bolt stuffed up the feed line. I'm always thinking that I must remember to reconnect the feed line before I start it. It's a silly annoying thing to have to keep on your mind, and I'm certain that one day I will forget and destroy the motor, and possibly myself along with it.
A few days ago, I thought that I had not disconnected the feed line after using the bike a while back, so I had to go and check. Fortunately I had done it, but along with the battery, it requires regular attention/checking. I don't like being slave to things like that.
 
I have resisted putting an anti wet sumping valve on my Norton. Usually I ride it enough that it doesn't wet sump very much. I have found that the type of oil I use makes a big difference to how much it does wet sump. The Mobil 1 Vee twin oil seems to not wet sump as much as some of the non synthetic oils I have used. I am going to have to try the idea of leaving the engine at TDC when I park it. Maybe that will make a difference.

My Goldstar came with a manual valve. At first I didn't use it because it didn't seem necessary. Then I changed the oil to on that seems a bit too light. Then it would smoke when I started it up because of wet sumping if it was left for a day, or even 8 hours. I started using the valve. I was worried I would forget to turn it on, so I got a string and tied it around the valve and the kick starter. That way I can't start the engine without removing the string. When I remove the string I turn the valve on. When I ride the bike I put the string around the steering damper. When I put the bike away for the night I turn off the valve and put the string back on and tie it to the kick starter.

It is a pretty simple system that works.
 
tricatcent said:
I was worried I would forget to turn it on, so I got a string and tied it around the valve and the kick starter. That way I can't start the engine without removing the string. When I remove the string I turn the valve on. When I ride the bike I put the string around the steering damper. When I put the bike away for the night I turn off the valve and put the string back on and tie it to the kick starter.

It is a pretty simple system that works.
Click to expand...

Not always :oops: :
I used a manual valve for 3 years in combination with a disclock-reminder-wire (one end on my trottle grip and the other end on the kickstarter) to be sure NOT to forget to open the manual valve. The inevitable happened, don't ask me about the circumstances but I did forget to open the valve finally. I rode for 4 miles only to find out there was zero pressure on my gauge Immediately I opened the valve and was extremely lucky no harm was done inside my engine. From that moment I fitted a CNW automatic anti drain valve and got rid of the manual one.
 
hi haven't had much time with work to take pictures yet my priority is to fill the orders on a timely fashion and to make a living at the same time i will have some new pictures later this week iron john
 
I just ordered a manual "Anti Drain Valve" from Ironjohns with an electrical cut off. My question is, where is it best to connect those switch wires? Would the coils ground be a good choice?
Commando 850 1973, Pos Gr, Boyer analog, Podronic.

Thanks
 
worntorn said:
non-problem? Huh?

I live in BC, the riding weather here isnt great in the winter, sometimes the bikes sit for awhile. My 650ss will wet sump in a week or so of sitting (new oil pump), my MK3Commando in a month or so, the Vincents take a bit longer.
I managed to blow a seal out of the Commando because I felt like going for a ride after letting it sit awhile and didnt feel like draining the sump.

Glen
Click to expand...

Your report is the first I've ever seen about a "blown seal". Norton knew about wet sumping and it's even mentioned in the rider's manual (run the engine 3 min before checking oil level). My bike sits for the winter months and in 38 years I've never given it a second thought, other than it's a bear to kick over after it's sat for a while.

IMO wet sumping is a non-problem and any method of preventing it, no matter how clever, has more risk of catastrophe than ignoring it does. YMMV of course.
 
maylar said:
worntorn said:
non-problem? Huh?

I live in BC, the riding weather here isnt great in the winter, sometimes the bikes sit for awhile. My 650ss will wet sump in a week or so of sitting (new oil pump), my MK3Commando in a month or so, the Vincents take a bit longer.
I managed to blow a seal out of the Commando because I felt like going for a ride after letting it sit awhile and didnt feel like draining the sump.

Glen
Click to expand...

Your report is the first I've ever seen about a "blown seal". Norton knew about wet sumping and it's even mentioned in the rider's manual (run the engine 3 min before checking oil level). My bike sits for the winter months and in 38 years I've never given it a second thought, other than it's a bear to kick over after it's sat for a while.

IMO wet sumping is a non-problem and any method of preventing it, no matter how clever, has more risk of catastrophe than ignoring it does. YMMV of course.
Click to expand...

Well I blew that seal also and after draining my sump countless times I am really happy with my CNW valve last years.
 
Update from ironjohns:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4NZgzu1dC8[/video]

HI GUYS.

This is the newest version of the anti- drain valve. One of the biggest benefits to this valve over the others is free oil flow to your oil pump absolutely no restriction with oil going to your oil pump and has the safety feature of the engine safety switch, you do not turn it on, the bike will not start. There have been a few problems so far, the big problem is guys when ordering please specify your application of this valve magneto cut out or coil cut out and what it is going on is the big thing, they are all custom made for application not all the bikes out there use a 3/8 oil lines and my crystal ball is not working that well these days and can not read your mind so please let me know your application 3/8 oil lines 1/2 in oil lines and your application it all make things easier and you don’t get the wrong valve, as for payment I will be taking pay pal through a friend's pay pal account with a service charge and yes I do send overseas.

Any way have a good one all http://www.ironjohns.com all my contact info is there.

ironjohn
Click to expand...
 
I'm making some of these this week, along the lines of the one in the photo. Will post a photo and parts info once they are done. That way if you are like me and need a bunch of these things, you can make your own.

Glen
 
It would be great to see CNW make one of these out of billet... I know of a few people on this board (including me) that would form an orderly queue.

C'mon, how about it guys? :wink:
 
Well I blew that seal also and after draining my sump countless times I am really happy with my CNW valve last years.
Click to expand...


yep, I have the CNW one way valve in my oil line for over two years now, no sumping at all
 
1up3down said:
Well I blew that seal also and after draining my sump countless times I am really happy with my CNW valve last years.
Click to expand...


yep, I have the CNW one way valve in my oil line for over two years now, no sumping at all
Click to expand...

Maybe Dyno Dave can chime in on this... I was told by Iron John that the ball and spring "automatic" anti-sumping valve passed 20% LESS oil than just tubing in the same amount of time. He ran the pump with a drill sucking oil from a container with and without the automatic valve and timed it for one minute, then measured how much oil had been pumped. It is clear that the automatic valve is a restriction and it could be worse at low speeds. A manual ball valve with a switch is a much better solution, no restriction and it has to be opened for the bike to start.

Jean
 
SGOUD2 said:
I just ordered a manual "Anti Drain Valve" from Ironjohns with an electrical cut off. My question is, where is it best to connect those switch wires? Would the coils ground be a good choice?
Commando 850 1973, Pos Gr, Boyer analog, Podronic.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Anyone have any opinions on this ? Phil
 
Norton-Villier said:
SGOUD2 said:
I just ordered a manual "Anti Drain Valve" from Ironjohns with an electrical cut off. My question is, where is it best to connect those switch wires? Would the coils ground be a good choice?
Commando 850 1973, Pos Gr, Boyer analog, Podronic.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Anyone have any opinions on this ? Phil
Click to expand...

I might think that it would depend on the resistance of the switch itself. If no resistance you could run it into the feeder for the switch in line with the fuse but probably not advisable.

You could put it in line with the ground of the ignition but grounds are so important I might not mess with that one either.

I would ID the line coming out of the switch to the ignition module and give that a go. This would keep other system out of the loop and not overload the switch not mess with the grounding circuits.

Unrelated, this unit seems small in the ID area. I think the inherent problem with ANY of these valves, and/or checks, is starving the supply. This is particularly worry some when cold and using straight weight 50.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

N
  • Locked
"Goof-proof" anti drain valve sequel (2012)
2 3 4 5 6 7
Replies
125
Views
18,092
Steves
Steves
Back
Top