Gold Star Build
- Thread starter rockitdoc
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I'm a fair wrench, but actually do know how to paint, color sand, and polish. This blue was the color for bikes that came to the U.S. market in 1960. I was about to paint him silver, cuz that's the only color I ever saw on Gold Stars of that year, but come to find out, that was only true in 1960 for all other markets, i.e. the Empire. Most folks from the Empire have never seen a blue Gold Star! Some of my pals from the other side o the pond even told me that blue was incorrect. Yes, and no. Depends on where you took delivery. I agree, the blue is stunning. A good choice by whoever decided to use it. I've heard it was the west coast U. S. importer; but then also heard the east coast boys had a hand in it. So, I don't really know.gtsun said:
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I got sidetracked with a Laverda project for the past three years and have not worked on the Gold Star at all.
Laverda is now sorted and I am back on the Goldie full steam ahead.
I think it shouldn't take more than a month to figure out where I left off.
Ugh!
Those Italian mistresses can really be trouble! :mrgreen:
Laverda is now sorted and I am back on the Goldie full steam ahead.
I think it shouldn't take more than a month to figure out where I left off.
Ugh!
Those Italian mistresses can really be trouble! :mrgreen:
xbacksideslider
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Sweet bike, got a pic of the Laverda? I always liked them.
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rockitdoc said:Sometimes it's the little things that create the most frustration when going through the first time. The tool box has a special Dzus fastener to keep it closed. Looks like this:
They are really hard to find in the correct size and the tool to put them in is, well....special. But, where there's a will.... quote]
There are so many of these that the BSA owners club is probably the beat place to obtain one.
http://www.southco.com/en-gb/product/hi ... l?hid=7345
http://www.bing.com/search?q=Dzus+faste ... rsationid=
I had a 500 Goldie engine back in the 1960s which I brought for £50 and then sold for …….£50 :!:
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My Goldie is finally completed! And....I am on to another project! What a surprise!
So, this guy is going on the block this week. Just don't know what block to post it on. Bring a Trailer? Ebay? Craigs? Here?
If you have followed this 'not very comprehensive build' you know this project has taken a long time. Lots of life got in the way along the way, but it is finally completed and I am very happy with the result. It is very authentic. Very few reproduction parts. Mostly restored originals or NOS bits. Pictures show placed where 'old' bits were cad plated and show dings and dents, nicks, etc. Some parts were updated for sensible riding (modern Pearson billet crank and clutch, SRM ignition, 12 volt conversion) and are hidden inside where they are not obvious, if that is important. Easily brought back to primitive 6v if need be. Anyway, take a look and let me know what sort of valuation I should put on him. I have all records, and a build log of course.
So, this guy is going on the block this week. Just don't know what block to post it on. Bring a Trailer? Ebay? Craigs? Here?
If you have followed this 'not very comprehensive build' you know this project has taken a long time. Lots of life got in the way along the way, but it is finally completed and I am very happy with the result. It is very authentic. Very few reproduction parts. Mostly restored originals or NOS bits. Pictures show placed where 'old' bits were cad plated and show dings and dents, nicks, etc. Some parts were updated for sensible riding (modern Pearson billet crank and clutch, SRM ignition, 12 volt conversion) and are hidden inside where they are not obvious, if that is important. Easily brought back to primitive 6v if need be. Anyway, take a look and let me know what sort of valuation I should put on him. I have all records, and a build log of course.
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Last edited:
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Figured it out. Gotta pay. So, I did.
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Matching numbers frame and engine, of course. Authenticity letter shown.
However, some stuff was not restored 'correctly' with 'sensible' modifications for modern riding in mind.
For example:
1. The tach drive should be painted black. But, the brass looks so vintage... So, sue me.
2. Some of the hardware is stainless, cuz I could not find the correct size hardware in steel to cad plate. For example, the rear sets hardware shown.
3. You can't see the wiring in the headlamp, but it is terminated by 'modern' methods and will not come apart in high g turns.
4. SRM 12v electronic ignition hidden in OEM Lucas voltage regulator in tool box.
5. Magneto rebuilt to 12v specs.
6. Fuse block installed and hidden in battery box.
7. Purists will cringe at the two stage paint with clear coat polished to a mirror. Sorry. I'm an old bodyman/painter and can't help myself. Paint is PPG.
8. The carb is a Mikuni. It is on there for starting/ridability. The Amal GP is included in the sale for those who wish to show him or, heaven forbid, put him in a Museum!
Note the quick release plug in the headlamp. I found out this was available (only?) in 1960 for those who wished to race these machines. It made removing the headlamp quick and easy. A very difficult to find item.
Also, note the aluminum Dunlop rims. Very tasty bits and hard to come by. I also have the steel rims.
An aluminum Lyta racing fuel tank also comes with the bike. Hard to find and looks amazing. See earlier photos in this string.
This was a great journey and taught me a lot. Thanks to all of those who provided helpful information on how best to preserve this marvelous machine.
Scott
