Glyptal paint.

The bottles used to say General Electric. It's common to coat inside of rough castings to seal and promote quick return to sump for engines. A used casting should be baked and super clean before application.

I used Ultraseal of Slough many years ago on a very early set of Maney barrels. Once hot you could watch the oil bubble & then weep out. They were more concerned that I didn't come anywhere near their minimum charge. Lol about 35quid.
Later send a pair of Atlas cases to them that were beyond porous & had a coat of yellow paint in them. Factory or not I couldn't say. They are still on his sprint bike.

The crank cases are as clean as it's possible to get them without access to a hot Trichloroethylene tank. They have been degreased, heated to 170c to remove the mains, vapour blasted, ceramic tumbled, & finally heated again to refit the mains & follower guides. This final heating saw no oil sweating out.
The resin impregnation idea sounds fine, but I'm guessing a bit spendy, so my next port of call will be a motor rewind shop to scrounge/buy a couple of ounces of Glyptal.

I’m personally a Glyptal guy, but have friends that swear by CRC Seal Coat Red Urethane Coating for motorcycle engine/tranny cases, which is touted to be another effective dielectric coating.

WZ507 said:

I’m personally a Glyptal guy, but have friends that swear by CRC Seal Coat Red Urethane Coating for motorcycle engine/tranny cases, which is touted to be another effective dielectric coating.

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Thanks for that. It seems to be available from RS Components in the UK, & at a reasonable cost.

Another of the previously accepted methods of cleaning an engine was a swim in the hot tank. This meant an alkaline solution (lye?) heated to boiling temp with a "seasoned" block left in the tank until cam bearings were eroded away.
The EPA then determined that an open tank is an air quality hazard and requires a fume recovery system or mandatory change over to a new system, that doesn't require the use of strong, caustic, chemicals.

Of the new methods.
1. Usage of something like simple green or some kind of citrus oil as the solvent introduced into a pressure bath for a few hours and then spray the heck out the part. When it comes out, it is still encrusted with "clean" dirt instead of oily dirt.
The point being, if the engine was dirty enough to go in the bath in the first place, most likely...it will not be clean when it comes out but will be oil free for the next stage of cleaning.

The second method, is, as mentioned, to heat the block enough to boil off or evaporate the petroleum product, which should then allow the dirt to fall away. The heat and amount of time needed to burn off the oil is usually enough to affect the block surfaces and possibly relieve stresses in the block...
There are claims this last method might, may or does warp the casings, blocks and other components.
I have hot tanked a variety of engine blocks, all cast iron, with a trusted machinist/engine builder I have known for years and knows his craft.

All of the above processes help assure whatever sealing process chosen takes and holds.

One needs to do their research and trust said vendor.
There are horror stories of the wrong metal being introduced to a caustic solution/hot tank that didn't turn out so well, if you catch my drift.

I wouldn't worry too much about it flaking off. It is some sticky goop. And it's hard to get off when you want it off. Wear rubber gloves and old clothes.

Lineslinger said:

I use it in all my engine rebuilds and have done so for a lot of years.
Oil slides off of the Glp. covered surface and returns to the oil pan/pump a lot faster. I have a good supply but I am afraid the shipping costs would offset any savings you would realize.

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Nice, is that a FE 427 side Oiler , or top oiler , cross bolted bottom end , cool ford stuff .

Shelby-Right said:

Nice, is that a FE 427 side Oiler , or top oiler , cross bolted bottom end , cool ford stuff .

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Side oiler - 1966.

I just picked up a quart of Glyptal 1201 from a Canadian distributor Electrowind.
79.15+15.00 shipping + tax 12.24= 106.39 CAN delivered.
I tried the link at Thread #6 by Mofoshee and was 56.60 US but when I wanted to check out for the shipping cost it was almost the same price as the Paint.
That would have worked out to over 181.12 Can before tax so I think I did ok.
Our poor Canadian Dollar runs .60 c to US trading.
They do put a shelf life of 2 years from D.O.M.
Just an FYI.

Matchless said:

Do any of you gents have a tin of Glyptal paint they would be prepared to sell me a small quantity of? I just need enough to line a set of crank cases. In the UK it's only available in a tin costing £99, & I'm not prepared to pay that for a single use.

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Paint is not cheap anymore . Buck it up.

You

CanukNortonNut said:

Paint is not cheap anymore . Buck it up.

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You have got to be joking. If paint kept for ever I might be tempted to purchase a can, but I can guarantee that the next time I came to use it, it would have gone off.

"Bucking it up" can also apply to supporting the AN site thru a VIP membership.

A quart could probably do at least 20 norton engines.

Matchless,
You could buy the spray can option. $52 Can to your 28 pounds exchange. Not sure of the shipping to England would be or any other restrictions.

Spraying Glyptol, unless you have a professional level spraying setup, offers varied results, paint waste and requires a lot of prep work dealing with overspray, which sticks to everything. Good luck getting it off.
Not standard spray paint. Nasty stuff, gloves and mask
To effectively apply it you need to brush it on in multiple coats for optimal results.

Lineslinger said:

Spraying Glyptol, unless you have a professional level spraying setup, offers varied results, paint waste and requires a lot of prep work dealing with overspray, which sticks to everything. Good luck getting it off.
Not standard spray paint. Nasty stuff, gloves and mask

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Try having your back to the wind in your back yard.
Its a paint spray can like a can of black enamel paint you would re-spray your cylinder fins with. May be I just don't get it, what you are on about???????????.

CanukNortonNut said:

Try having your back to the wind in your back yard.
Its a paint spray can like a can of black enamel paint you would re-spray your cylinder fins with. May be I just don't get it, what you are on about???????????.

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Wow.
Methinks the snarky comment is a clear indication that someone doesn't want to get it.

Read my previous posts, view the photos of Glyptal application and my experience with said product be it spray or brush on.

Trying to share my experience of what did and didn't work for me with the OP.

I use a small paint booth in my shop...no wind!
It has ventilation and everything!
There are alternative methods of paint application other then hanging parts from a string or off of a branch in the backyard.
I am on about nothing more than sharing my experience with said product. Whether you are in agreement or not was never my consideration.
You be well.

There are storage methods for different paint formulas you can use that will allow it to last for many years, not just one or two. I am still using a can of Hirsch high gloss engine enamel and a can of Glyptal both over 7 years old without compromising it's quality.

Same with paints used for the interior and exterior of my home. Some paints do separate and has to be remixed but it eliminates color matching or renewal.

Glyptal is volatile stuff, low flash point, be cautious of sparks or other ignition sources.

Lineslinger said:

There are storage methods for different paint formulas you can use that will allow it to last for many years, not just one or two. I am still using a can of Hirsch high gloss engine enamel and a can of Glyptal both over 7 years old without compromising it's quality.

Same with paints used for the interior and exterior of my home. Some paints do separate and has to be remixed but it eliminates color matching or renewal.

Glyptal is volatile stuff, low flash point, be cautious of sparks or other ignition sources.

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Sorry for the snark.
I just reviewed the MSDS sheet on Glyptal. You are right in quoting that it is volatile. 73-degree F. flashpoint