Paint choices

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As an additional post to previous ones about my converting my '73 Hi-Rider 750 to Roadster configuration, have acquired a new roadster tank (thanks Greg Marsh) and am prepping it for paint. May repaint the side covers also, not sure. Am asking what others are using for products when they repaint their bike. My bike will be black, and to me, black is black, but is there such a thing as "Norton" black? I have done a number of paint jobs on various bikes, and cars in the past, and felt I produced a good result for a home done amateur job, but they were quite a long time ago. I'm not expecting a show quality paint job, but want to do a decent, acceptable job that won't be glaringly amaterish. Since it's a gas tank, want the finish to have a degree of fuel resistance. I'd guess some would say leave the painting to the painters, but any suggestiona or advice?
 
First, don't even think of using any paint you can find on the shelf of a hardware store. You can go to a quality paint store that caters to
the automotive industry. They will point you to a quality primer and then offer you various products that are 2-pac custom packaged
in aerosol cans. Get a quality respirator. Don't expect a quality job without quality materials. You will be doing good to complete your
tank for less than $100. There is enough paint to do the side covers and more. When I last did a paint I used an acrylic enamel after
the primer and then clear coated it with a 2-pac product I bought on the internet. It looked professional quality. Much of the good stuff
can't be purchased in California due to air quality laws. Others may be more erudite and specific that I. I'm not a fan of stick-on graphics
and striping. To do those in paint adds a more complex process but still doable. And, No, all black shades are not the same.
 
To expand on Lazyeye6, most automotive paint jobbers can mix your color and fill into an aerosol (for a price). If you have access to a spray gun (even a cheap Harbor Freight gun) and an air compressor it will likely be less expensive than a custom aerosol job.

A single stage acrylic urethane enamel from a reputable manufacturer is the easiest to use, but a basecoat /clearcoat system will give better gasoline resistance. Surface prep is critical. I prefer to strip all steel surfaces to bare metal and sand fibreglass to the gelcoat unless I know that the existing paint is compatible. Bare metal gets epoxy primer/sealer as does the sanded fiberglass. Any necessary body filler is done and sanded along with an acrylic urethane primer/surfacer. Final sanding and ready for basecoat and clear. Cut and buff (color sand if necessary). This will yield a long lasting, good looking finish.

The price of paint has gone through the roof since Covid. The cost of materials from a jobber can be more than a professional job. Professionals have there own tint station and can mix smaller quantities than most jobbers want to sell. You will likely have paint, catalysts, and solvents left over.

I know a little about paint but less about painting. I spent 38 years in the lab with BASF and PPG.
 
This guy gets great results from automotive rattle cans. Finishing with 2-pak clear:

 
This guy gets great results from automotive rattle cans. Finishing with 2-pak clear:


Compare those photos with some of Brent's work. You can see the difference even in photos. The SprayMax clear is pretty good and will provide significant fuel resistance. The DupliColor color coat not so much. It boils down to how much you are willing to spend and how discriminating you are about the finished product.
 
Compare those photos with some of Brent's work. You can see the difference even in photos. The SprayMax clear is pretty good and will provide significant fuel resistance. The DupliColor color coat not so much. It boils down to how much you are willing to spend and how discriminating you are about the finished product.
As for the clear coat I agree - I've used SprayMax 2K on a few bikes, thankfully available still in CA. It's good stuff, I pay $60 for 3 cans and can do 2 side covers, a tank, rear cowling and front fender with one can. I recently tidied up some original red Suzuki parts which looked pretty bad. The fender looked especially tired and scratched but I went at it with 1000 grit, and cleaned up nearly all the scratches, thankfully none dug through fully. You can polish it but in this case I'm not gonna bother. It lays down very nicely.

Paint choices
 
Same as clear coat that is used in video i linked....basically an epoxy 2 part paint, with fancy activator mechanism on the can bottom.
For the sake of accuracy, that is urethane, not epoxy.
 
Compare those photos with some of Brent's work. You can see the difference even in photos. The SprayMax clear is pretty good and will provide significant fuel resistance. The DupliColor color coat not so much. It boils down to how much you are willing to spend and how discriminating you are about the finished product.
I looked at the linked site, vintage-vendor (Brent) that another member sent. In the pics, his work certainly looks to be first rate. Anyone ever actually have their tank/side covers done by him, or have an idea of what he charges to do a tank and side covers? I'll still be doing mine myself, but just curious.
 
Something else I need to be considering, are the script and stripes to be applied to the tank and side covers. I've looked at various vendors offerings, but could others who've already done their's make any recommendations?
 
Expect tp pay $1000 for Brent's work which will include stripping, remove/reinstall gas cap, prime, painted graphics/stripes, paint, clear.
Could be more if fixing dents and other flaws.
 
Leave it to the pros who probably already have the right tint of black.
Will save you a lot of time and about $200-300 in materials depending on where you are.
 
Something else I need to be considering, are the script and stripes to be applied to the tank and side covers. I've looked at various vendors offerings, but could others who've already done their's make any recommendations?
Brent has done a P11 and a P11A in candy red and my '69 'S' in metalflake red. I'll be sending him my tins for the Ranger 750 soon. Great work and reasonable price.
 
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