Electrical Connector updates

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My ignition switch is having some issues with the non-lit position. Since I just use it for starting the bike I jiggle the key around until I get the red light in the headlamp. It is only a matter of time before the thing creates a bigger problem. I will undoubtedly wait until it strands me on the side of the road before I get around to replacing it, but that isn't any excuse for you to do the same.

Russ
 
Niagara850 said:
by flashbackk » Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:10 pm

My thinking with the relay on my trispark is if the electrical system does crater the odds of taking the ignition circuit out also is pretty good. My way, if the system crashes , I switch the relay trigger wire from the white wire lug on the key switch to the hot wire lug
( brown/blue) and ride home with the key off without brakelights or headlights. Plus it has it's own ground back to battery.
Click to expand...

The ignition circuit would be completely isolated from rest of the electrical system.

I have run a ignition relay / coil system on my Kawasaki for 10 years without incident. Runs better with stronger spark and good plug colour. Now its a different beast and doesn't vibrate near as much.

I assume the ballast resistor stays in series with the coils wired off of 87 ; 87 -> ballast resistor -> Coil1 -> Coil 2 -> ground
Click to expand...

The ballast resistor stays if your coils needed one before but if possible in the interests of simplicity it might be better use a coil or coils that do not and have the correct primary resistance for whatever ignition you are using....the main purpose of the ballast on older autos was that it could be bypassed (via a starter solenoid terminal) while the starter was cranking so the coil would briefly see a higher voltage and deliver a hotter spark. FWIW I'm using a Harley type twin lead coil and it works great...there is an old thread on them at harley-coil-t3673.html
 
Niagara850 said:
Going thru my wiring to improve grounds and looking for potential issues. When riding I get a complete miss every once in a while like everything dies for a split second and and the spark seems weak on the right side , I have slight missing the right cylinder too. Having gone thru the carbs several times. It is time for a close look at the wiring. The PO soldered and heat shrunk most of the connectors at some point. The 3 way bullet connector for the headlight is bad. the rolled piece just fell apart. What are people doing to replace the old rolled female connectors. They don't seem to be readly available locally.

- I also plan to run direct grounds from the battery to coil wing and headlight, should I run any others?
- Redo the crimps on my Boyer wire lead to the plate, it is the upgraded one but ...
- Clean-up the Kill switch again

Anything else I should look at?


I assume the ballast resistor stays in series with the coils wired off of 87 ; 87 -> ballast resistor -> Coil1 -> Coil 2 -> ground
Click to expand...

With an electronic ignition and 17M6 (6 volt) coils wired in series, you need to take the resistor out of the circuit. That could be the source of your weak spark. The ballast resistor is used with the stock points system and coils in parallel. The ballast resistor drops the voltage from 12 v to 6 v for easier starting. With most electronic ignitions the coils are fed through the ignition box and are designed to work with the coils in series.
 
With an electronic ignition and 17M6 (6 volt) coils wired in series, you need to take the resistor out of the circuit. That could be the source of your weak spark. The ballast resistor is used with the stock points system and coils in parallel. The ballast resistor drops the voltage from 12 v to 6 v for easier starting. With most electronic ignitions the coils are fed through the ignition box and are designed to work with the coils in series.
Click to expand...

interesting, I have a Boyer. I was looking at the wiring diagram and showed the resistor in series. I'll have to check and see if the bike is wired that way
 
Just a shout to say thanks to you Onder for the link to Britishwiring.com I had been having trouble starting my BSA 441 and turns out it was a bad wire at the switch that would work 80% of the time. When I stripped it back to put new connectors on I found green brittle corroted wire. I can fix it but to my surprize Britishwiring has period correct wiring harnesses that look stock. Very cool. Has anyone used one to speak of the quality??? They look nice. Thanks again.
 
If, for whatever reason, you wish to stay fairly stock, you need to use the proper bullet connectors.
You can get genuine appearing 16ga bullets. They are the ones that are tinned and have TWO places
to crimp, behind the head (conductor) and at the tail (insulation). If you want to do your own wiring
it is nice at times to go up a size in conductor and then you cannot find the bullets as mentioned.
You can get brass bullets for 14 (AWG) but they have not the ability to crimp the insulation.
I went larger for the headlamp and pilot. Same with the grounds.
Have not purchased a entire loom from anybody yet but I may as 40 year old wire has plenty of
embrittlement and corrosion issues.
 
Update

I tried the wiring up the coils thru a relay but it didn't work for some reason. Wired as per Bluto's Relay diagram and double checked but no spark. The relay clicked on but didn't release and no spark. Did the same with my KZ650 with a Dyna ignition about 10 years ago and it works like a charm. Maybe it has something to do with how the Boyer works... put it back.

Ran the extra grounds. Re-did my Stator lead connectors and saw that I had resistor plugs with resistor caps on the spark plug wires. Can't buy the non resistor NGK BP 7ES at the local auto parts or Canadian Tire stores around here for some reason ??? Popped across the border to the good ole US of A and stopped at the first auto part store and got a pair for $5.69. Running great , miss gone, no back firing.
 
See, I told you, it was those non-standard bullet connectors! :)
Jus kidding, thx for getting back to us.
 
There's a very good explaination of how a points ignition system works here: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052502a.htm

Normally a ballast resistor is switched out of the circuit to the coil when starting and switched back in after the engine starts. This is to provide a bigger spark at the spark plug when cranking. With the Commandos, non-electric start version anyway, the ballast resistor is hard wired in the circuit to the coil.
 
kevbo82 said:
i also used britishwiring.com they're maybe two hours from my house and always ship the same day i order so i've got the parts in hand next day. Everything i've got from them seemed like good quality, including all the various female connectors (including the big 10 way one under the tank) before i found them i had purchased the bullets from old britts which were the solder on style, i liked them. Just strip the wire a tad long, solder it and cut and file down the excess sticking out till it's flush.
Click to expand...

I am looking for the big 10 way connector, since mine is also disintegrating and can only see a 5 way at http://www.britishwiring.com/Bullets-Sn ... s-s/47.htm

Does anyone know where to find this part?
 
gortnipper said:
kevbo82 said:
i also used britishwiring.com they're maybe two hours from my house and always ship the same day i order so i've got the parts in hand next day. Everything i've got from them seemed like good quality, including all the various female connectors (including the big 10 way one under the tank) before i found them i had purchased the bullets from old britts which were the solder on style, i liked them. Just strip the wire a tad long, solder it and cut and file down the excess sticking out till it's flush.
Click to expand...

I am looking for the big 10 way connector, since mine is also disintegrating and can only see a 5 way at http://www.britishwiring.com/Bullets-Sn ... s-s/47.htm

Does anyone know where to find this part?
Click to expand...

You were almost there... http://www.britishwiring.com/C-336-p/c336.htm
 
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