Proper mounting of the wiring connector bundle under the tank?

MCA

MCA

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I installed a new loom and have completed the check of the wiring for function. What's the best method of locating and/or securing the spaghetti under the tank in the proper location?
I know the looms from the headlight etc. must have sufficient slack to allow for turning but it is not just loose under there is it?

How was it originally? Roadster tank to be fitted. Mark I 850.
Thanks.........mike

Proper mounting of the wiring connector bundle under the tank?
 
What I have seen is a mega-connector single block - was this factory? A good thread to reference is here.

At the risk of going off topic, should that Red ground to engine go directly to the head steady bolt? Also, could be the picture but if you are re-using any original connectors get them replaced now with new. Last, are those the right and left console gray harnesses running into the main loom under the tank? I had thought all joining was done in the headlamp shell.
 
Make sure that the ground on the head steady plate has continuity to the engine. sometimes a good paint job on the head steady can insulate it.
 
Jdub said:
What I have seen is a mega-connector single block - was this factory?
Click to expand...

Yes, although five double-common connectors do the same and don't take up any more space.

bullet connector junction block - source, part number

pretty sure this is original to my 74 Mk2. hitting a search dead end. i would like to replace with the same. (lucas) female bullet connector - junction block. not sure what to call it - 5x2 (???) source, part number? found 5x1, but no 5x2. i can do work-arounds, but trying to keep the...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

Jdub said:
At the risk of going off topic, should that Red ground to engine go directly to the head steady bolt?
Click to expand...

The original connection was to the rear head steady stud, however, connecting to a head steady cap head would be better.

Jdub said:
Last, are those the right and left console gray harnesses running into the main loom under the tank? I had thought all joining was done in the headlamp shell.
Click to expand...

No. Under the tank is correct (1971-'74).
 
Thanks for the link to that thread. As for the connectors, only the grey "Multi''s" and one triple block are original. Everything else is a new item. The connections are secure so I am not worried by them. The grey switch harnesses are as they should be for the 1973 year but my routing may be suspect. The ground wires to the head stay are located back where I found them upon removal.

Triumph2, I absolutely checked for continuity there as the head stay is powder coated. The use of lock washers and the removal of some powder coating at the underneath spacers provide a good ground path.
 
L.A.B. said:
Yes, although five double-common connectors do the same and don't take up any more space.

bullet connector junction block - source, part number

pretty sure this is original to my 74 Mk2. hitting a search dead end. i would like to replace with the same. (lucas) female bullet connector - junction block. not sure what to call it - 5x2 (???) source, part number? found 5x1, but no 5x2. i can do work-arounds, but trying to keep the...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com



The original connection was to the rear head steady stud, however, connecting to a head steady cap head would be better.



No. Under the tank is correct (1971-'74).
Click to expand...
Thank you for the information. After reading the thread linked above by Jdub, it seems loosely fitted is the way to go? Still curious as to the original factory configuration.
 
Generally I will tie four single connectors together with double zip ties. And tie 2 of the double ones together with double zip ties. You want to end up with square packages. Then I will wedge them between the top frame tube and the brace tube and secure with bigger zip ties around the tubes as the tank tunnel isn't particularly wide. It's not the most elegant looking thing but I've never had a wire come loose.
www.motorcyclistonline.com

The World’s Worst Motorcycle Restorer

The ultimate sin: black plastic zip-ties!
www.motorcyclistonline.com www.motorcyclistonline.com
 
Last edited:
htown16 said:
Generally I will tie four single connectors together with double zip ties. And tie 2 of the double ones together with double zip ties. You want to end up with square packages. Then I will wedge them between the top frame tube and the brace tube and secure with bigger zip ties around the tubes as the tank tunnel isn't particularly wide. It's not the most elegant looking thing but I've never had a wire come loose.
www.motorcyclistonline.com

The World’s Worst Motorcycle Restorer

The ultimate sin: black plastic zip-ties!
www.motorcyclistonline.com www.motorcyclistonline.com
Click to expand...
Thank you. I appreciate the information on your approach to this. I've kind of done somewhat of the same thing with the exception of securing the "bundle" to the frame. I've left that overall tie only tight enough to hold the bundle somewhat centered to clear the tank.
Loved the linked story........
Regards.....m
 
Fitted a new wiring harness, I'm surprised that you didn't take the oppertunity to tidy everything up, eliminate all those connections and move the switchgear connections to the headlamp shell. Thats what i would have done. that gives you plenty of room under the tank for a better head steady, Electronic ignition black box etc
 
Jdub said:
At the risk of going off topic, should that Red ground to engine go directly to the head steady bolt?
Click to expand...
It appears that the head steady is powder coated. Those red wires must provide a good ground for the engine. I always put them under the socket screw to the head to be sure I have a good ground. Where they are may not be providing a ground to the engine.
 
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