Electrical Connector updates

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Niagara850

Niagara850

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Going thru my wiring to improve grounds and looking for potential issues. When riding I get a complete miss every once in a while like everything dies for a split second and and the spark seems weak on the right side , I have slight missing the right cylinder too. Having gone thru the carbs several times. It is time for a close look at the wiring. The PO soldered and heat shrunk most of the connectors at some point. The 3 way bullet connector for the headlight is bad. the rolled piece just fell apart. What are people doing to replace the old rolled female connectors. They don't seem to be readly available locally.

- I also plan to run direct grounds from the battery to coil wing and headlight, should I run any others?
- Redo the crimps on my Boyer wire lead to the plate, it is the upgraded one but ...
- Clean-up the Kill switch again

Anything else I should look at?
 
I don't use any of the Lucas-type bullet connectors. I cut them off/replace them all with Ancor fittings like these http://www.marinco.com/product/snap-plu ... -insulated

Their entire lineup of various connectors are here: http://www.marinco.com/productline/connectors-terminals

Also, a good set of ratcheting crimping pliers are invaluable, not those crummy little things that come in connector kits at parts stores. Somnething like this: http://www.marinco.com/product/double-c ... het-tool-1

No, I do not work for/get anything free from Marinco! :)
 
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts ... +%26+Tools

or

http://www.britishwiring.com/Bullets-Sn ... s-s/47.htm

Pretty much same stuff . The new cnx have softer rubber and better inners and are easier to use and a better connection.
If you are serious about this get the EXPENSIVE bullet crimper it is worth it. AVOID at ALL COSTS the "budget" bullet
crimper. it is absolute dogshit. Same goes for lucar crimper. The good one works well and a clone can be found which
is identical but cheaper. Be sure of what size bullets and lucars you need as per size of space and wiring size. If you
do it all up correctly life will be much easier in the long run.

If you ground everything well and bring all the grounds home you will be well served. If you still have stock switching
and are patient and dextrous, take them apart and clean the contacts and lube the moving parts. The later alloy
handle bar switches have two small screws holding down the plastic bit that holds the circuit board. Be very careful
not to over tighten those screws. Once the screws are out all the little springs and ball will escape. Hold down the
board with thumb until both screws all the way out then carefully release the board and you will be able to keep all
the springs and ball in situ.

The factory manual advises not to disassemble switches but they are parts selling panty waists.
 
Niagara850 said:
Going thru my wiring to improve grounds and looking for potential issues. When riding I get a complete miss every once in a while like everything dies for a split second and and the spark seems weak on the right side , I have slight missing the right cylinder too. Having gone thru the carbs several times. It is time for a close look at the wiring. The PO soldered and heat shrunk most of the connectors at some point. The 3 way bullet connector for the headlight is bad. the rolled piece just fell apart. What are people doing to replace the old rolled female connectors. They don't seem to be readly available locally.

- I also plan to run direct grounds from the battery to coil wing and headlight, should I run any others?
- Redo the crimps on my Boyer wire lead to the plate, it is the upgraded one but ...
- Clean-up the Kill switch again

Anything else I should look at?
Click to expand...

Maybe the taillight area.
 
I got everything I needed to re-do some of my Lucas bullets, including a crimp tool, from here: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home. I think this info came from LAB in a previous thread. I made my own triple connectors by re-using the rubber part (which was OK) and soldering a single and a double together as suggested (possibly in the same thread).

When grounding, if using the frame, make sure there is a dedicated ground wire between the headlight shell (or triple clamps) and the headstock of the frame, rather than relying on any electrical connection being made through the steering head bearings.
 
i also used britishwiring.com they're maybe two hours from my house and always ship the same day i order so i've got the parts in hand next day. Everything i've got from them seemed like good quality, including all the various female connectors (including the big 10 way one under the tank) before i found them i had purchased the bullets from old britts which were the solder on style, i liked them. Just strip the wire a tad long, solder it and cut and file down the excess sticking out till it's flush.
 
mike996 said:
I don't use any of the Lucas-type bullet connectors. I cut them off/replace them all with Ancor fittings like these http://www.marinco.com/product/snap-plu ... -insulated

Their entire lineup of various connectors are here: http://www.marinco.com/productline/connectors-terminals

Also, a good set of ratcheting crimping pliers are invaluable, not those crummy little things that come in connector kits at parts stores. Somnething like this: http://www.marinco.com/product/double-c ... het-tool-1

No, I do not work for/get anything free from Marinco! :)
Click to expand...

+1, I rewired w/ modern bullet connectors and that worked well....that crimper looks like a rebadged Palladin which is a good thing, parts and alternate dies are available, have one myself and it works great. Headlight relays might be worth the trouble of adding if you ride much at night, a substantial voltage drop to the bulb like 2.5V can cut light output nearly in half
 
rpatton » Tue Apr 23, 2013 12:07 pm



Niagara850 wrote:
Anything else I should look at?

Powering the ignition with a relay?
Click to expand...

Yes!!! I did that to my 78 Kawasaki and put full battery to the coils bypassing voltage robbing crappy conectors and switches. Anyone have wiring diagrams I can use?
 
Niagara850 said:
rpatton » Tue Apr 23, 2013 12:07 pm



Niagara850 wrote:
Anything else I should look at?

Powering the ignition with a relay?
Click to expand...

Yes!!! I did that to my 78 Kawasaki and put full battery to the coils bypassing voltage robbing crappy conectors and switches. Anyone have wiring diagrams I can use?
Click to expand...

A standard Bosch style headlight relay is rated for 30 or 40 amps and is cheap and easy to find....the pinout is as below, 30 to battery, 87 to power side of coil, 85 to ground, 86 gets the old wire from the power terminal of the coil...and it would be a good idea to fuse the 30 lead going to the battery. A five terminal relay w/ two 87's or 87 and 87a will work too. there is some good general info on relays at http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

Electrical Connector updates
 
Niagara850 said:
Going thru my wiring to improve grounds and looking for potential issues. When riding I get a complete miss every once in a while like everything dies for a split second and and the spark seems weak on the right side , I have slight missing the right cylinder too. Having gone thru the carbs several times. It is time for a close look at the wiring. The PO soldered and heat shrunk most of the connectors at some point. The 3 way bullet connector for the headlight is bad. the rolled piece just fell apart. What are people doing to replace the old rolled female connectors. They don't seem to be readly available locally.

- I also plan to run direct grounds from the battery to coil wing and headlight, should I run any others?
- Redo the crimps on my Boyer wire lead to the plate, it is the upgraded one but ...
- Clean-up the Kill switch again

Anything else I should look at?
Click to expand...

Niagara
Your avatar is where you should look. The place where you parked your bike to take your shot is a good friend of mine and he has electrical stuff for Lucas. You can even get all the proper coloured wire to make a complete wire harness, replacement bullet connectors and old rolled female connectors. Paul and Sheila are the owners of the shop and they are nice people. Try there for local help. :wink:
Cheers,
Thomas

CNN
 
Niagara850 said:
Going thru my wiring to improve grounds and looking for potential issues. When riding I get a complete miss every once in a while like everything dies for a split second and and the spark seems weak on the right side , I have slight missing the right cylinder too. Having gone thru the carbs several times. It is time for a close look at the wiring. The PO soldered and heat shrunk most of the connectors at some point. The 3 way bullet connector for the headlight is bad. the rolled piece just fell apart. What are people doing to replace the old rolled female connectors. They don't seem to be readly available locally.

- I also plan to run direct grounds from the battery to coil wing and headlight, should I run any others?
- Redo the crimps on my Boyer wire lead to the plate, it is the upgraded one but ...
- Clean-up the Kill switch again

Anything else I should look at?
Click to expand...

El "cheapo" crimp connectors can me made to be quite effective by simply stripping away the plastic shroud like this

Electrical Connector updates


and soldering like this

Electrical Connector updates


As for the grounding situation, read this http://www.gabma.us/elec/proper_grounding.pdf In short, adding more frame grounds is the opposite of what you want to do. Rather, you should collect all your major grounds to a single point (somewhere on the frame), and run a single 14g wire back to the battery from there.
 
Many thanks, lots of good info here. Bluto / RPatton the relay info and diagrams is just what I was looking for, now to execute

Niagara
Your avatar is where you should look. The place where you parked your bike to take your shot is a good friend of mine and he has electrical stuff for Lucas. You can even get all the proper coloured wire to make a complete wire harness, replacement bullet connectors and old rolled female connectors. Paul and Sheila are the owners of the shop and they are nice people. Try there for local help.
Cheers,
Thomas
Click to expand...
Duh... lol ...how could I forgot about the Land Rover folks! I'll go check them out. I called around the Auto Electric places without success and British Car Parts dealer in NF and didn't get a response. I recall the same service from them 30 years ago...
 
Adding relays (and dedicated fuses) to the lighting and horn circuits is a good idea. These circuits are high-amperage and isolating faults in them (including relay failures) still allows you to limp home. The ignition circuit, on the other hand, is a low-load circuit (2 amps with an EI), and should only be isolated from the battery by a fuse. If all other circuits crater while riding, you can at least make a graceful and safe exit from the road with the bike running. Inserting another device in the ignition circuit is unnecessary, IMHO, and adds to the risk of failure.
 
My thinking with the relay on my trispark is if the electrical system does crater the odds of taking the ignition circuit out also is pretty good. My way, if the system crashes , I switch the relay trigger wire from the white wire lug on the key switch to the hot wire lug
( brown/blue) and ride home with the key off without brakelights or headlights. Plus it has it's own ground back to battery.
 
by flashbackk » Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:10 pm

My thinking with the relay on my trispark is if the electrical system does crater the odds of taking the ignition circuit out also is pretty good. My way, if the system crashes , I switch the relay trigger wire from the white wire lug on the key switch to the hot wire lug
( brown/blue) and ride home with the key off without brakelights or headlights. Plus it has it's own ground back to battery.
Click to expand...

The ignition circuit would be completely isolated from rest of the electrical system.

I have run a ignition relay / coil system on my Kawasaki for 10 years without incident. Runs better with stronger spark and good plug colour. Now its a different beast and doesn't vibrate near as much.

I assume the ballast resistor stays in series with the coils wired off of 87 ; 87 -> ballast resistor -> Coil1 -> Coil 2 -> ground
 
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