Disc work

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Maybe this isn't true in out lying areas, but just about any machine shop should be able to blanchard and drill any pattern you want. All you have to do is ask.
 
builder said:
Maybe this isn't true in out lying areas, but just about any machine shop should be able to blanchard and drill any pattern you want. All you have to do is ask.
Click to expand...

Have you watched how they Blanchard grind? I don't think that equipment is in every shop.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesxx-U_0FU[/video]

I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

But I'd prefer to send it to someone who is very familiar with Norton disks.
 
swooshdave said:
builder said:
Maybe this isn't true in out lying areas, but just about any machine shop should be able to blanchard and drill any pattern you want. All you have to do is ask.
Click to expand...

Have you watched how they Blanchard grind? I don't think that equipment is in every shop.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesxx-U_0FU[/video]

I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

But I'd prefer to send it to someone who is very familiar with Norton disks.
Click to expand...

+1. Will be calling Gary tomorrow. Hopefully it can be done for right around $75-100. I'm a cheapskate, it seems. /shrug
 
I did mine on the No. 18 Blanchard we have up in the corner of the shop. Way, way, overkill, but the next smaller grinder was engaged.
You will need proper fixturing to support the disc. When I was done it was nice and true and parallel too.
The hard chrome is removed from the braking surfaces during this process so just be aware of that.
Mine was free other than my time, and in the end it looks to me like if you can get it done properly for $75.- it's a good deal for you and a fair deal for the grinder.
I'm not all that enthused by the need for lightening or gas vent holes so that part is on hold for now at least.
...as a foot note, I have done all the rotors on all the cars we have had in the last 25 or so years. Always on a decent engine lathe, single chucking on a 5" diameter stub arbor for both sides. The arbor is 3 jaw chucked, the face is trued and the rotor is then bolted to the arbor on the same mating side as the hub contacts. They have always been perfect. Next time I will give this a try with the Norton disc. Grinding is probably overkill for an iron rotor.
 
I've often wondered if a Norton disc can be turned on a brake lathe just like non-vented auto rotors. If so, what is the minimum thickness??? I have a rust spot on mine where the pad sat in the same spot for many, many years. Not only does it look like hell, I was thinking it cant be any good for braking. I have a brake lathe here in the shop, but do not want to cut without knowing the minimum allowable thickness.
 
min thk is .250" by the book. There is a relief on one side and I wouldn't go any more than that for sure.
The chrome may play hell with the insert, let's hear how it goes.
There are brand spankin' new rotors on ebay for $99.- from India, make from old falcons ,bean tins and dust bins no doubt.
Anyone here have one of those? Any good?
 
swooshdave said:
builder said:
Maybe this isn't true in out lying areas, but just about any machine shop should be able to blanchard and drill any pattern you want. All you have to do is ask.
Click to expand...

Have you watched how they Blanchard grind? I don't think that equipment is in every shop.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesxx-U_0FU[/video]

I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

But I'd prefer to send it to someone who is very familiar with Norton disks.
Click to expand...

Yeah...I don't think that they're all as large as that machine, and if a shop doesn't have one, they shop it out to another and still take care of it for you.

With regards to being familiar with the Norton disc...I really disagree with statements like this...nothing special about it. Parts is parts to a good machinist.
 
Anybody getting their disc plated after grinding? Nickel, or? Just curious. It doesn't seem like chrome is a very good idea for use with abrasive pads but letting them rust isn't that great either. I have one here that has most of the original plating still on it.

Russ
 
SwooshDave

Just measured six rotors on bikes or spares on hand--only two are a smidgen thicker than a quarter inch--four are closer to 7/32"--wonder if that's the general condition


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
'72 Combat, '74 RH10 850
 
Called DBR earlier. Quote was $125 for grind, drill, and paint. Just waiting on an email later tonight and then I'll be sending my disk off for work. I'll probably go with the standard job (unless Gary shows me a really nice pattern that i like better!) with the middle of the disk painted black to match the rest of the theme on my bike.

Just FYI in case anyone else was considering calling DBR.

-Jordan
 
FWIW, I seem to remember the guy from Vintage brake saying it is never a good idea to drill a Norton disc. Don't know why but he is the expert, does anyone know anything about why it would not be a good idea? Maybe they are cast iron & that could have something to do with it?
 
I like look with the drilled holes but honestly, the look of the rotor with no drilling (ground only) actually looks pretty slick, IMO. I'm thinking I'll just grind mine (and probably paint the center black) to see how I like that. If I'm not a big fan of that I'll probably send it back for drilling. kind of hard to go backward if you drill first!

Disc work


I'd be interested in hearing if/why drilling is a bad idea on a stock commando disk.

-Jordan
 
I haven't called to ask why but if you go to the web site for Vintage Brake vintagebrake.com and click on the "Tips & Tricks", read the info about drilling/slotting discs he says "Grey Iron discs such as vintage Norton & Triumphs should not be modifide! He doesn't say why though.
 
gtsun said:
I haven't called to ask why but if you go to the web site for Vintage Brake vintagebrake.com and click on the "Tips & Tricks", read the info about drilling/slotting discs he says "Grey Iron discs such as vintage Norton & Triumphs should not be modifide! He doesn't say why though.
Click to expand...

I'm not metallurgist, but as some folks here have found out it's very easy to crack the iron. If the holes aren't done correctly or even if they are there is a chance of cracking.
 
I just received my disc from Scott ... It's beautiful and well made . 1 week turnaround, I will try to post a pic, soon.
Philippe
 
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