Paint work

YING

YING

Pittsboro,NC
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I would like to paint some of my frame rails without taking apart a perfectly running motorcycle.There are various chips here and there and wondered if anyone has done this. I am naive with different spray guns.Can an air-brush be used?Comstock at one time posted that he used a door jamb gun but I could not find any.Any suggestions would be appreciated.Frame is not powder coated and would like to use some black acrylic enamel.
Thanks,
Mike
 
YING said:
I would like to paint some of my frame rails without taking apart a perfectly running motorcycle.There are various chips here and there and wondered if anyone has done this. I am naive with different spray guns.Can an air-brush be used?Comstock at one time posted that he used a door jamb gun but I could not find any.Any suggestions would be appreciated.Frame is not powder coated and would like to use some black acrylic enamel.
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
There are years worth of posts on this site , non that i seem to be able to access . If you google " painting norton frame with spray can " you will find them ..
 
Or you could do what I do/did by ignoring sprays and if it's a few light chips just use a very fine soft artist's brush and a good enamel in a can . Have a towel or 2 ready in case any drips develop , but hopefully not .
I've also used a gloss black automotive touch up pen , with adequate results . I too wasn't about to strip down a licensed and insured ride just to strip and spray new . Try it ?
 
Mike
The latest 2K epoxy pressure packs are excellent. I use SprayMax. You can even ask them to add something to take the gloss down a bit (satin to matt).
Used them on a few things and would recommend them.
There is a button on the base to release the hardener - must be used within 24 hours after pressing.
...and they really do harden - none of that squishing out of bolted joints. Not that that is an issue for you.

This link is an example only: https://wholesalepaint.com.au/produ...l?_pos=18&_sid=ebf180cdd&_ss=r&_fid=c9fe2e829

Cheers
Rob
 
Last edited:
Ron Hulton said:
There are years worth of posts on this site , non that i seem to be able to access . If you google " painting norton frame with spray can " you will find them ..
Click to expand...
Thanks Ron,
I appreciate the help
Mike
 
robs ss said:
Mike
The latest 2K epoxy pressure packs are excellent. I use SprayMax. You can even ask them to add something to take the gloss down a bit (satin to matt).
Used them on a few things and would recommend them.
There is a button on the base to release the hardener - must be used within 24 hours after pressing.
...and they really do harden - none of that squishing out of bolted joints. Not that that is an issue for you.

This link is an example only: https://wholesalepaint.com.au/produ...l?_pos=18&_sid=ebf180cdd&_ss=r&_fid=c9fe2e829

Cheers
Rob
Click to expand...
Thanks
robs ss said:
Mike
The latest 2K epoxy pressure packs are excellent. I use SprayMax. You can even ask them to add something to take the gloss down a bit (satin to matt).
Used them on a few things and would recommend them.
There is a button on the base to release the hardener - must be used within 24 hours after pressing.
...and they really do harden - none of that squishing out of bolted joints. Not that that is an issue for you.

This link is an example only: https://wholesalepaint.com.au/produ...l?_pos=18&_sid=ebf180cdd&_ss=r&_fid=c9fe2e829

Cheers
Rob
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob,
I will see if that is available here in the states
Mike
 
Torontonian said:
Or you could do what I do/did by ignoring sprays and if it's a few light chips just use a very fine soft artist's brush and a good enamel in a can . Have a towel or 2 ready in case any drips develop , but hopefully not .
I've also used a gloss black automotive touch up pen , with adequate results . I too wasn't about to strip down a licensed and insured ride just to strip and spray new . Try it ?
Click to expand...
Torontonian,

Thanks.That is my thinking too as I really don’t want to tear it apart for various chips especially where I live.High of 36 degrees 3 days ago and today mid seventies!Went out yesterday with my summer gloves.
Mike
 
YING said:
Torontonian,

Thanks.That is my thinking too as I really don’t want to tear it apart for various chips especially where I live.High of 36 degrees 3 days ago and today mid seventies!Went out yesterday with my summer gloves.
Mike
Click to expand...
We wear snowmobile Mitts and our skating rink is melting . Got in 4 good skates before the melt . Good luck with the touch ups , you could practice un any non visible nicks first , then when you get the hang of it , move to the more visible ones , usually the front down tubes .
 
YING said:
I would like to paint some of my frame rails without taking apart a perfectly running motorcycle.There are various chips here and there and wondered if anyone has done this. I am naive with different spray guns.Can an air-brush be used?Comstock at one time posted that he used a door jamb gun but I could not find any.Any suggestions would be appreciated.Frame is not powder coated and would like to use some black acrylic enamel.
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
I saw you mentioned air brush, an air brush would work well if you are handy with it. I just finished touching up my Firebird motor with mine, using some Hirsch automotive paint thinned with enamel reducer. I also use it to repaint chips in my Rally wheels. I don’t know what paint options you have in your area, probably better than California, but if some automotive paint stores are nearby, check with them to see what they would sell you a pint of. Advantage there is having the paint mixed at the proper gloss level. I know that Rustoleum used to sell their paints in small cans in hardware stores, but don’t know if thin enough for an air brush. If too thick, you can buy enamel reducer on Amazon. Rustoleum in a spray can is actually pretty decent, just be sure to mask off the surrounding areas.
 
concours said:
www.aerotouchups.com

99-2KA GLOSS BLACK IMRON AF400 2K AEROSOL

www.aerotouchups.com
Click to expand...
Be aware that Imron is a polyurethane and uses an isocyanate hardener. It is recommended that it be sprayed with an air supplied respirator. I am surprised that anyone fills it in an aerosol. Also straight polyurethanes are not the best coatings for adhesion to other chemistries, so usually not recommended for touchup. I would suggest that a common automotive urethane modified acrylic or even a polyester would be better suited for this type of repair. I have used these (single stage) with an airbrush on frames with good results. If you want to use Imron (or any other brand of isocyanate catalyzed urethane) I suggest it be applied as a total refinish on sandblasted or chemically stripped frame primed with an epoxy primer. Please be careful with these. Isocyanate will not be retained by most chemical respirator cartridges and can cause severe respiratory problems.
 
YING said:
I would like to paint some of my frame rails without taking apart a perfectly running motorcycle.There are various chips here and there and wondered if anyone has done this. I am naive with different spray guns.Can an air-brush be used?Comstock at one time posted that he used a door jamb gun but I could not find any.Any suggestions would be appreciated.Frame is not powder coated and would like to use some black acrylic enamel.
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
I painted every bad spot on my rider's frame with VHT Rollbar and Chassis Paint, Gloss. The bike has never been apart in its lifetime and I didn't want to change that.

Sand and feather any chips/rust spots, wipe the area with denatured alcohol, hold a piece of cardboard behind the place to spray and mask only if essential. The paint requires no primer and looks almost identical to the original paint if clean.

Although not as nice a job, for small dings this works well on frames but is a little slow drying:

Paint work
 
Ron L said:
Be aware that Imron is a polyurethane and uses an isocyanate hardener. It is recommended that it be sprayed with an air supplied respirator. I am surprised that anyone fills it in an aerosol. Also straight polyurethanes are not the best coatings for adhesion to other chemistries, so usually not recommended for touchup. I would suggest that a common automotive urethane modified acrylic or even a polyester would be better suited for this type of repair. I have used these (single stage) with an airbrush on frames with good results. If you want to use Imron (or any other brand of isocyanate catalyzed urethane) I suggest it be applied as a total refinish on sandblasted or chemically stripped frame primed with an epoxy primer. Please be careful with these. Isocyanate will not be retained by most chemical respirator cartridges and can cause severe respiratory problems.
Click to expand...
As an asthmatic , I will never use these chemical sprays .
 
If you're just touching up stone chips, anything aerosol based is just going to colour in the ding and leave it visible.
As Greg says, sanding down the whole area first will blend things better, but if there's still overspray and blending in to work out.
Paintbrush and enamel from the tin to cover the chips, and a few applications with dry-off periods in between will fill the chips in the traditional manner.
 
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