What caliper and disc T160

Flatspot

Flatspot

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I am going to fit twin discs to the T160. I have a choice of 3 caliper options AP, Grimeca or Girling.

does anyone have a proven preference or a reason not to use the Girling version ie a rebadged Wassell light alloy unit?

also, drilled and lightened disc, or fully floating disc?
 
I have twin racing Lockheed's
I believe these don't have dust seals on the pistons? But I've had no issues when I used to ride through the winter
Also twin 300 mm semi floating discs
 

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Flatspot said:
I am going to fit twin discs to the T160.
Click to expand...

Note that the RH slider caliper mounting lug threads are 3/8" UNF.

The LH slider lug threads (and inner ends of the studs) are 3/8" BSF.

97-7159 Fork Slider RH - Triumph Twin Disc Conversion - British Motorcycle Parts Ltd - Auckland NZ

www.britishmotorcycleparts.co.nz www.britishmotorcycleparts.co.nz
"NOTE: This RH Slider does not have the same stud setup as the LH Slider. The LH Slider has a BSF thread to take the 21-2189 Stud. The RH Twin Disk Slider (fitted to TSS models and an option on later models that used racing calipers only) uses a UNF bolt (21-7119) as you have to unbolt the brake caliper to get the wheel out."

According to the T160 parts manual, the 21-2189 caliper mounting studs are "UNC/UNF" which is incorrect as they're BSF/UNF.
 
Flatspot said:
I am going to fit twin discs to the T160. I have a choice of 3 caliper options AP, Grimeca or Girling.

does anyone have a proven preference or a reason not to use the Girling version ie a rebadged Wassell light alloy unit?

also, drilled and lightened disc, or fully floating disc?
Click to expand...
If you mean alloy APs, use them.

Grimeca are well proven and work well.

I had hell trying to bleed some Girlings. Never again in my shed.
 
Well I will let you know how well the ‘Girlings’ bleed. I used to strip, repair and rebuild 6 pot Tokico calipers for many years. I have never been beaten by something refusing to bleed. (Always a first time)

I’ve gone for full floating discs, well why not?
 
Fast Eddie said:
If you mean alloy APs, use them.

Grimeca are well proven and work well.

I had hell trying to bleed some Girlings. Never again in my shed.
Click to expand...
You should buy a Gunsons Easibleed kit and with a little mod to the tubing you to can bleed your brake in under 10 minutes...... 😉
 
difficult to bleed brakes normally points to a badly adjusted master cylinder push rod or a trapped air bubble in the line , fill the system from the bleed nipple using a squeezy bottle / syringe and tight fitting hose pushes any trapped air in the lines out through the reservoir return port then bleed as normal
 
According to some respected input, the issue with Girlings is the seals pulling the pistons back too well thus allowing limited in/out movement that can be insufficient to clear stubborn air.

This was another forum members input, it’s not my own hypothesis.

As to whether or not this has been addressed by Girling I don’t know.

I swapped the Girlings to a Grimeca rear and 4 pot Brembo front and had no issues bleeding either of those (same bike, same master cylinders, etc).
 
that`s what the seals are designed to do distort then return to shape displacement of fluid should equal return of fluid if you have air in the line the caliper will not function as designed
 
baz said:
I have twin racing Lockheed's
I believe these don't have dust seals on the pistons? But I've had no issues when I used to ride through the winter
Also twin 300 mm semi floating discs
Click to expand...
they look like my mate Paul Fields (sadly missed) caliper brackets and discs, I've got a set on one of mine
 
OK, my take on bleeding the bleedin’ brakes. I used to do a regular service for Hayabusa owners with the renowned troublesome 6 pot Tokico calipers. They can be especially awkward when still fitted with the over-the-mudguard stock brake hose setup.

I always chock the pistons fully retracted so there is no outward movement allowed until all the air is bled out. I have a vacuum bleeder for those situations that warrant it, but I generally just use it to help empty a system.

I will also bleed at the top union if it’s needed, but generally feathering the lever in and out helps to dislodge anything that trapped there.

If there is ever any issues with a spongy brake it helps to cable tie the brake lever ‘On’ overnight.

Other than that I don’t encounter any bleeding issues.
 
trident sam said:
they look like my mate Paul Fields (sadly missed) caliper brackets and discs, I've got a set on one of mine
Click to expand...
Yes I bought them from Paul
I have the rear one too
But with a standard caliper that I fitted stainless pistons too
I knew he had died , very sad
 

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