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Crankseal small leak into primary.New seal same leak.Tiny nick in crank at seal ,how to fix this ?
Crank nick at seal
- Thread starter Torontonian
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- Apr 15, 2009
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Let me be the first to say... JB Weld!!!! :mrgreen:
Sometimes if the nick is not too wide you can put the new seal only mostly home and have the lip ride in an undamaged area.
Be careful that the sprocket does not rub the seal in this case.
I have no experience with speedi-sleeves at this small diameter but that may be an option too.
All the best.
Be careful that the sprocket does not rub the seal in this case.
I have no experience with speedi-sleeves at this small diameter but that may be an option too.
All the best.
Same problem found on my fastback during last rebuild. Take the standard or Maney rubberized seal and lap it down a little on a flat surface w /sand paper. The seal has a metal lip that can be "shaved" a little to change where the seal sits in the crank case. I also like to idea of not putting the seal in completely with same result.
While you are there, you might want to try and reduce crankcase pressure with any of the usual devices.
Michael
While you are there, you might want to try and reduce crankcase pressure with any of the usual devices.
Michael
Gidday All.
have you blokes over there have Speedi Sleeves( this is a brand name.) or the equivalent. a very thin walled stainless sleeve designed to repair damaged seal areas. Uses standard seals. when the sleeve grooves just replace it. comes finished and also creased to remove the fitting flange. comes in small diameters and different lengths. maybe be worth investigating.
this is probably what MikeG and Concours were talking about but this is not dump truck technology. Proven technology.
Worth a squizz anyway. Hope this helps
kind regards
Bradley
have you blokes over there have Speedi Sleeves( this is a brand name.) or the equivalent. a very thin walled stainless sleeve designed to repair damaged seal areas. Uses standard seals. when the sleeve grooves just replace it. comes finished and also creased to remove the fitting flange. comes in small diameters and different lengths. maybe be worth investigating.
this is probably what MikeG and Concours were talking about but this is not dump truck technology. Proven technology.
Worth a squizz anyway. Hope this helps
kind regards
Bradley
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Thanks. Thinking Jb Weld after thorough brake cleaner spraydown. Bike has belt drive and crankcase breather reed valve ,will report back.
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You can see a small drip forming at the seal, not the 3 studs.
Torontonian said:
That statement leads me to believe the engine remains assembled.
It will be difficult to solder and then successfully clean up the area where the seal lip runs, if that's the case.
I would be afraid the fillers in the epoxy will just wear the daylights out of the seal lip in a very short time.
Better methods have been previously mentioned.
All the Best.
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Engine in place, primary disassembled. A little oil in belt primary won't cause problems but looking for a fix in general.
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