I had the same issue, posted some time ago.
There isn't a lot of meat on the crank pin for the sleeve, but obviously some souls have had success. My concern is that the main bearing race is sized for the crank pin, increase the size of the pin with the Speedi Sleeve and now you have captured the inner race, so if you go this way probably a good idea to do up the lower end and get maximum mileage out of your efforts, gets expensive.
I sent my crank cheeks out for re-grinding and asked them to repair the seal surface, they either forgot or elected to take a pass, they did, however, compound the problem by chucking the crank pin in a 3 jaw rather than a collet, so what I got back now had radial scores that intersected with the radial scores made by the old seal (and dirt). I polished and polished, but the crank pin was harder then my resolve. The crank would be good with a wet (chain) primary, but not with a belt; I have the CNW starter kit so this crank is so much heavy jewelry for me...
I gave up and after leafing through about 1000 Google pages found a very rare NOS crank (still in a box from Berliner Motor Corp). Had I more ambition I would have sent it to a service that offers hard chroming or liquid metal technology to size up the pin, then send it on the ISS for zero gravity machining or some other eclectic service and pay their light bill for 10 years, or just bent over and purchase a forged crank...
Seriously, I think the JB Weld or sliver solder is the best, reasonably, fix, or use the Speedi Sleeve and hope the drive side Suoerblend is going to hold up for all the miles you wish to put on.
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