Chucks 72 Combat Project

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I will post some pictures tomorrow, I have been trying to get both bikes ready for the Colorado rally and getting lazy about posting pictures. I am Planning on starting it for the first time on Wed. with the builder of the motor. He wants to run it in and check everything, Fine by me. I still can't decide what tank to use or paint, I picked up a police tank from England that I think would look cool with a tank bag in the box. I think it was Debby that said someone had already done this and that sounds good, Maybe something that looks military. But what I found out was a six pack of beer fits perfect in that space, LOL LOL Cops wont think it's funny. Thanks for asking and I will post some pics tomorrow. Chuck.
 
Here are a couple of pictures almost finished! I still need to find some stencils for the tank and side covers. Who knows where I can source some? I would like to put the logo on the tank in green and the commando in black on the side covers.
Chucks 72 Combat Project
Chucks 72 Combat Project
Chucks 72 Combat Project
 
Here's a bit more inspiration for you from Donington, no idea where you can get stencils from tho !

Chucks 72 Combat Project
 
Chuck, that is a fantastic looking bike; I mean FANTASTIC.

I really like the look of it. I've got a basket case BSA I was considering "militarizing", you just pushed me over the top!
 
Hortons Norton said:
Here are a couple of pictures almost finished! I still need to find some stencils for the tank and side covers. Who knows where I can source some? I would like to put the logo on the tank in green and the commando in black on the side covers.

Do you want stencils or decals?
 
Thanks guys, It was a lot of fun to do. I still need to find some sort of stencils for the tank and I guess I could use black vinyl decals for the side covers. I want to paint the logo on the tank in green like the rest of the bike. Maybe I could have some stencils made? Also I think I might just start the bike myself as the builder of the motor has moved his shop a bit further away. I know this may start a opinion debate but what would be the best way to run in the motor? On my 75 when it was rebuilt it had only been run a short time and I did most of the breaking in. I don't remember doing anything special I just rode it on short runs and checked the valve clearances and re torqued the head a couple of times, Also changed the oil a couple of times. Seems to be a great running bike with maybe 3,000 or more on the clock and no problems at all. Maybe some of you guys with some motor building knowledge could help with your thoughts. I do have mechanical skills just not with these air cooled motors, Don't want to do any harm to his hard work. Thanks again and have a great day, Chuck. Dave I need stencils so I can match the green for the logo on the tank, Thanks.
 
Take the regular decal to any sign shop and tell them you want a stencil. Basically tell them not to "weed" the vinyl. That way you'll get the "positive" and the "negative" (stencil) for the same price. If you're not comfortable working with the vinyl just tell them what you want done and they can do it.
 
Your best course of action will be to converse with the engine buider, ESPECIALLY if he's giving you a warranty on the build. He'll tell you what lube to use, and what regimen to follow for break-in, congruent with the build. If anything goes wrong during break-in, he should not have any issues with the process.
 
Thanks Paul, I did talk to the builder today and he has told me how he does it. I was just wondering if anyone else has an opinion on what is the best way to do it, His way is almost the same as others I have read where he starts it and then runs it up to 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for a couple of minutes. Then change oil and filter! I have heard of others even going higher during this first few minutes and varying the rpm between 2,000 and 3,000 during the first few minutes. Then shutting it off and letting it cool and checking the valves and then re torque the head. Some have said don't worry about the head till you run it for more time than that, Maybe 25 miles or so. Also to change the oil and filter a few times in the first few hundred miles. I will stick to his method as if there were any problems I don't want to use a method he does not approve of. When I asked about pouring some oil down the rocker covers before I start it his opinion was it's not needed as he used an assembly lube that would do the job till the oil pressure made it way to the rockers and lifters. I still may pour a little down there, Don't tell anyone! He also said take quite a few short runs before you go on any long ones or ones where the weather may be hot. Anyway thanks to all on this fourm for all your help, Chuck.
 
The assembly lube is designed to protect the engine in the first few minutes unitl pressure comes up. Pouring oil down would make little difference. On big engines I pre lube them but sometimes those are huge oil ways to fill. Do just what he says as he knows the materials he is using and what has worked for him in the past. I also retorque most standard gaskets after the first few minutes, sometimes I see quite a movement on the bolts.
 
I like the chicken wire on the light. The bike looks great. I'm hackin away on my frame . Got a lot of welding to do to fix up some old problems. The goin's slow. :?
 
My only concern is you say "run it for a few minutes at xxx RPM..."

If you are going to run it more than a minute without riding, such as when you strobe time the engine, you should have the largest fan you can find pointed at the engine, on high speed.
 
Richard at Raber's in San Jose has commented to me the biggest mistake people make while breaking in an engine is to put oil in the cylinder like you mention. The rings need friction for the first run in so they will bed themselves to the cylinder wall. There is break in oil around that is basically the worst grade available. Check with your engine builder again on this and get some more opinions.
 
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