Boyer Ignition Installation (2007)

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Hello All--

I just purchased a Boyer electronic ignition, the analog (Mark 3) model which replaces the points and auto advance. It did not come with instructions, unfortunately. Was wondering if anyone can point me to a link that might explain it, and/or instruct me of potential pitfalls or worthwhile installation tips. This is going in my '71 750 Commando.

Thanks in advance for any help.

wrench

PS I'm also installing a dual lead Dyna coil as well as a Typanium regulator/rectifierer at the same time in case that makes a difference on the above installation. Thanks!!!
 

L.A.B.

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Hello wrench,

You can find the Boyer (pdf KIT 00053) instruction sheets on their website: http://www.boyerbransden.com/html/data_sheets.html


I don't think the dual coil or rectifier are likely to cause any problems (provided they are wired up correctly of course).

Ensure all your Boyer wiring connections are 100%.
 
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wrench said:
Hello All--

I just purchased a Boyer electronic ignition, the analog (Mark 3) model which replaces the points and auto advance. It did not come with instructions, unfortunately. Was wondering if anyone can point me to a link that might explain it, and/or instruct me of potential pitfalls or worthwhile installation tips. This is going in my '71 750 Commando.

Thanks in advance for any help.

wrench

PS I'm also installing a dual lead Dyna coil as well as a Typanium regulator/rectifierer at the same time in case that makes a difference on the above installation. Thanks!!!

Here are some links to some good instructions provided by Fred and Ella Eaton at Old Britts:

http://www.oldbritts.com/simp_wd.html

http://www.oldbritts.com/51_100001.html

http://www.oldbritts.com/boyer_install.html
 
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L.A.B., tyeever,

Exactly what I was looking for. MANY thanks. I'm also considering doing a 'total' rewire and happened across this article. Not knowing much about a motorcycle's wiring system, this seems to make sense of it somewhat.

http://tinyurl.com/2cre4d

Thanks for your help regarding Boyer(!).

wrench
 
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wrench said:
L.A.B., tyeever,

Exactly what I was looking for. MANY thanks. I'm also considering doing a 'total' rewire and happened across this article. Not knowing much about a motorcycle's wiring system, this seems to make sense of it somewhat

If you are going to completely rewire the bike and are planning on installing an electronic ignition and a modern voltage regulator, don't bother buying a stock wiring harness unless you absolutely have to have stock appearance. The stock harnesses have too many wires left over (zener diode, rectifier, condensors etc). I know this from experience. I would recommend buying a few spools of different colored 16 gauge wire, some lengths of shrink tubing and plastic sleeving and doing it yourself. I would also recommend soldering all connections and tossing the Lucas bullet connectors. I have no electrical experience but have managed to rewire three old British bikes without any major problems. If you have the simplified wiring diagrams for the Boyer plus your original wiring diagram in the back of your manual, you will be able to figure it out.
 
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Cheers tpeever. That is exactly what I plan on doing. I was originally just going to go over the existing system and update existing connections, but the whole mess is old and shoddily put together. Best just to start clean. With my luck I'll get it all together (just converted to single carb, too) and discover the engine needs an overhaul. Hmmmm....

'Preciate the help!

wrench
 
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I also just put a Boyer in my 72. 2 6v coil pos gnd.
Question , how is the ballist resistor and capacitors pack wired?
 

L.A.B.

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I also just put a Boyer in my 72. 2 6v coil pos gnd.
Question , how is the ballist resistor and capacitors pack wired?


The ballast resistor and capacitors are not used with Boyer ignition so they must be completely disconnected.
 
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Highly recommend crimp connections over solder. Soldered wire and vibration do not work well together. No modern bike or auto has soldered connections unless they are potted or on a board.
 
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i also do not use push on spade connectors. i only use ring terminals on the coils.
 
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The ballast resistor and capacitors are not used with Boyer ignition so they must be completely disconnected.
That’s what I thought but the instructions have one wire connected to one post on the condenser pack?
 

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That’s what I thought but the instructions have one wire connected to one post on the condenser pack?

The Boyer instructions are a little vague but black/white and black/yellow should be completely disconnected from the condenser pack and the condenser pack earth/ground (red) connector relocated to the 'LH coil'(+) terminal. Both the ballast and condenser pack can be removed if required.

Edit: The Boyer red connection to the 'condenser earth tag' seems unnecessary as the condenser pack red attached to LH coil (+) is earth/ground, however, this additional earth wire can be connected elsewhere (coil 'U' bracket bolt is one option) if the condenser pack mounting plate is removed.


The instructions mention connecting the Boyer box white to white/blue [WU], however, Boyer white can be connected to white/yellow [WY] from the kill switch.
 
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Boyers need to be timed by use of a strobe on the full advance mark.

Boyers tend to reach full advance at higher revs than points and the actual revs may vary from Boyer to Boyer
So make sure that you are at the full advance point when the Boyer stops advancing......so don’t look at the Rev counter, just look at the image shown by the strobe, it’s easy to see the Ignition advancing.
 
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Make sure you are using the correct Dyna coil. The Boyer requires 3 - 5ohm impedance. The brown Dyna coils are 1.5 ohm and not suitable.
 
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The Boyer instructions are a little vague but black/white and black/yellow should be completely disconnected from the condenser pack and the condenser pack earth/ground (red) connector relocated to the 'LH coil'(+) terminal. Both the ballast and condenser pack can be removed if required.

Edit: The Boyer red connection to the 'condenser earth tag' seems unnecessary as the condenser pack red attached to LH coil (+) is earth/ground, however, this additional earth wire can be connected elsewhere (coil 'U' bracket bolt is one option) if the condenser pack mounting plate is removed.


The instructions mention connecting the Boyer box white to white/blue [WU], however, Boyer white can be connected to white/yellow [WY] from the kill switch.
That makes sense.
Would you leave the white/blue connected to the ballist resistor?
 

L.A.B.

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That makes sense.
Would you leave the white/blue connected to the ballist resistor?

If Boyer box white is connected to WY then it doesn't matter, assuming the original WP ballast-coils wiring has been disconnected but in my opinion it's probably better to disconnect the wires from the ballast resistor and tie or tape the unused 'points' wiring out of harm's way.
 

L.A.B.

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Would you just tape off the original wires to the BR?

If Boyer white is connected directly to WY (from the kill switch) as mentioned, that completely bypasses the WU section which then becomes a disconnected, 'unused' wire and preferably tied or taped so there are no odd loose unused wires (including unused WP wires) hanging from the harness.
 
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Thanks LAB
Finally got it going but timing way off, thanks for answering all my newbie questions.
C
 
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