Bike dies at stops

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Onder, slides ain’t gonna cure those symptoms.

You sure you’re looking in the right place? New plugs fitted? Duff coil?

I’m sure you’ve covered this before, but I gotta ask, you are using the coke correctly ?
 
Onder, slides ain’t gonna cure those symptoms.

You sure you’re looking in the right place? New plugs fitted? Duff coil?

I’m sure you’ve covered this before, but I gotta ask, you are using the coke correctly ?
 
Coke, naw, Im straight! :-O
Choke is off and clear hiding out in the slides.
Plugs come out clean, they have about 500 miles on them. Bike, under load at speed shows no signs of ignition breakdown.
If the coil is bad or the plugs are bad they wont go from missing to full power as soon as you wind it up.
But I will eventually just parts change until something shows up.
I feel like a teenager with his first bike.
 
If the coil is bad or the plugs are bad they wont go from missing to full power as soon as you wind it up.

No, but if you have a fractured wire somewhere in the ignition circuit the increased vibes low in the rev range could be causing an intermittent fault
 
Twice you've mentioned the air screw seems to make no difference. Given that I would have thought maybe your slides are too high, or not seating properly, or air entering elsewhere....
 
Since heat related, have you checked carb body temp when issue arises? I had a throttle slide jam when rolling grip full open at a petrol stop (thankfully engine was off). The float bowl was too hot to touch. After a few minutes as things cooled down, slide snapped shut. This was with a single amal on the 2n1 manifold, heat insulator gaskets at the head side. Added a third insulator to carb side and problem never came back.
In your case, heat may be enough the affect fueling, rather than slide jams. Feel bowl and body when issue happens to assess.
 
Yes premiers. Ive done all the cheap stuff. If at low speed you run add choke it smooths out. If you set the air screw too lean or too rich no change. Needle is full rich. Plugs are clean.
Starts hard.

Needle is full rich to compensate for the wrong idle jet size, so you are using the needle position to compensate for the wrong idle jet,... and almost getting it to work, so you are leaving the needle set in the wrong position and trying to fashion a solution for that tiny low range before the needle kicks in...

Get the 19 idle jets and move the needles back to where they are supposed to be... Yes, I'm just guessing based on what I have read because I have original amals, which are similar of course.
 
I shall do one thing at a time and will eventually not know what it is but Ill know what it is not.
 
Have you still got the needle ‘full rich’ as mention above? That’d be the first thing I’d change...

Personally, I believe a number 3 slide may well be better, so definitely worth trying that too.
 
It doesnt act like it is rich but rather lean. Blipping the throttle when it acts up causes it to just quit unless you give it a fair amount say half throttle.
Will try EVERYTHING one at a time .
 
Back with some news.
I WAS running Pazon Altair. Since I have descended into shameless parts changing, out with the Altair and in with a spare SureFire.
Tested the coil, Pazon wants 3-5 ohms. Mine checked in at 3.9. Have a new identical unit consistent at 3.0. So I changed it out as
well. Before I pulled anything there were no iffy connections, chaffs or any maybes. I'm pretty careful about that stuff because it matters.
It now starts hard but slightly better than before, but NO kickbacks. It will not idle to save its life now but that may well be simple adjustment.
It is better where the problem was but those small throttle opening are still not what they should be.
Also it is a cool day no sun so the bike isn't stressed. At speed it is better for certain. Did not take it into town to torture test it
that will wait until I sort the idle.
If you are asking it looks like a coil problem.
Grand Paul , I think, said he never got much service out of two plug coils. This was a two plug. It has about 3k on it. Guess it would
be three years old. GP if you are out there I'd appreciate a comment. Thanks to all more as we HOPEFULLY move forward.
 
Back with some news.
I WAS running Pazon Altair. Since I have descended into shameless parts changing, out with the Altair and in with a spare SureFire.
Tested the coil, Pazon wants 3-5 ohms. Mine checked in at 3.9. Have a new identical unit consistent at 3.0. So I changed it out as
well. Before I pulled anything there were no iffy connections, chaffs or any maybes. I'm pretty careful about that stuff because it matters.
It now starts hard but slightly better than before, but NO kickbacks. It will not idle to save its life now but that may well be simple adjustment.
It is better where the problem was but those small throttle opening are still not what they should be.
Also it is a cool day no sun so the bike isn't stressed. At speed it is better for certain. Did not take it into town to torture test it
that will wait until I sort the idle.
If you are asking it looks like a coil problem.
Grand Paul , I think, said he never got much service out of two plug coils. This was a two plug. It has about 3k on it. Guess it would
be three years old. GP if you are out there I'd appreciate a comment. Thanks to all more as we HOPEFULLY move forward.
Is it a Pazon twin. Outlet coil...
 
Kickback during kickstart can be too far advanced timing or too lean a mixture at idle. Also, many electronic ignitions can have problems with a bad cell in the battery. Once the bike is running at speed, everything seems good because the charging system is providing voltage, but when your bike is idling, the normal commando rotor/stator isn't producing significant voltage to make up for a weak battery or a bad cell in a battery.

If I felt like I was frustrated, and had tried just about everything I could think of, I might mark the position of the ignition pick up, then retard it temporarily a few degrees to see if the issues go away as a test.

You can also pump the bleeders to see if adding fuel helps the bike run when it's running poorly. You're just seeing if more fuel helps the problem, so you can go in that direction for a solution.

Other than that, I would clean the battery terminals, and the inline fuse to make sure they have good contacts. Put new spark plugs in the bike. I was tortured by a single bad plug for many days because it tested good when held against the head, but didn't fire at the tip when threaded into the cylinder under compression. I've been a victim of the "I'm not changing that part because it tested good" scenario, and only got lucky when my friend said he would pick me up lunch and a new set of plugs.... When he came back the bike fired and ran on the third kick with the new plugs, after kicking it and getting sputtering for a day and a half... Sometimes it's just something simple...

It sounds like your coils (both of them) have the proper resistance.
 
If I felt like I was frustrated, and had tried just about everything I could think of, I might mark the position of the ignition pick up, then retard it temporarily a few degrees to see if the issues go away as a test.
If you think you're advanced would it be better to test the timing with a light or just give the pickup plate a nudge?
 
All those points were addressed. Timing always checked with a strobe.
The real annoying part was under load it was fine. Acceleration up a steep hill was great.
When I changed the coil we moved ahead.
I have already pleaded guilty to parts changing yer honour...
Previously have retarded the EI (kickbacks).
I must add that I have the Altair on two bikes and both tend to have kickbacks which is not supposed to happen. Have the low tech SureFire on two identical bikes and they rarely kick back and if they do it isnt violent.
 
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