Bike dies at stops

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swooshdave said:
I remember that. I may try that too.

What exactly did you glue it on with?

What did you fill the original hole with? Did you need to do that or was it just to make it tidier?
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As I could only really move it over about 6mm I was afraid that the new hole would brake into the old one, so I filled it with Kwiksteel epoxy putty (like JB weld I think) and trimmed it flat, then drilled and tapped. I think I used some silicone to glue the stop on, but Araldite or anything like that would do it. Or you could put a small grub screw into the side of it.
 
Oh, Dave, what is the fuel pipe you use?

does it stay soft ?
 
cliffa said:
Thanks, By the way if you need any more pics of the gantry I have some.
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It looks like the stop is roughly L shaped?

I can't see how silicone would hold it on.

I wonder if there's enough room to put an Allen head bolt and then just need to use a hex key to adjust? Might need to have the head turned down.
 
swooshdave said:
It looks like the stop is roughly L shaped?

I can't see how silicone would hold it on.

I wonder if there's enough room to put an Allen head bolt and then just need to use a hex key to adjust? Might need to have the head turned down.
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Hi Dave, no it's U shaped...


Bike dies at stops



Not sure what you mean about the allen bolt ?


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
cliffa said:
Hi Dave, no it's U shaped...


View attachment 16510


Not sure what you mean about the allen bolt ?


Cheers,

cliffa.
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Very nice, I might even have some aluminum scrap. I can see with the U-shape that it wouldn't take much to keep it in place.

The Allen bolt to replace the idle screw (the one with the brass knob).
 
Why don’t you set the idle with the idle screws on the carbs? This would eliminate the idle screw as being an issue. Usually fluctuating idle is an indicator of air leaks. Is the balance pipe a good fit etc?
 
myjota said:
Why don’t you set the idle with the idle screws on the carbs? This would eliminate the idle screw as being an issue. Usually fluctuating idle is an indicator of air leaks. Is the balance pipe a good fit etc?
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The whole point of the single cable setup is to eliminate the need to set the idle independently.

So far I think the note @cliffa had about the idle screw conflicting with the spring seems to make the most sense. I've tried the washer thing but I need to get out for more test rides to confirm. Test rides are far between for me so I appreciate everyone's input but be patient!
 
Looking at your first pick Dave, is the clearance from the bottom of the slide to the carb floor the same on both carbs when the slides are bottomed out?
 
acadian said:
Looking at your first pick Dave, is the clearance from the bottom of the slide to the carb floor the same on both carbs when the slides are bottomed out?
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Now that I have the vacuum evened out I think they are much better. I had to bring up the right slide. Heck, when it was hot a barely touched the kickstarter and it roared to life. Scared me! I’ll fire it up again tomorrow and see how she does from cold.

Back before the engine boo boo I had the carbs also pretty dialed in and it was one or two kicks consistently. I’ll be happy to get back to that.
 
swooshdave said:
Now that I have the vacuum evened out I think they are much better. I had to bring up the right slide. Heck, when it was hot a barely touched the kickstarter and it roared to life. Scared me! I’ll fire it up again tomorrow and see how she does from cold.

Back before the engine boo boo I had the carbs also pretty dialed in and it was one or two kicks consistently. I’ll be happy to get back to that.
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Ok you've got that sorted, my right is slightly higher as well to even out the vacuum. I have noticed that in removing the slides over and over again the adjusters have a habit of turning, I noticed this after some time as the exhaust note was increasingly biased to one side, checked the carb balance with a carbtune and they had gone out of whack

Just something to think about.
 
cliffa said:
As I could only really move it over about 6mm I was afraid that the new hole would brake into the old one, so I filled it with Kwiksteel epoxy putty (like JB weld I think) and trimmed it flat, then drilled and tapped. I think I used some silicone to glue the stop on, but Araldite or anything like that would do it. Or you could put a small grub screw into the side of it.
Click to expand...

Can you show a picture of where you put the new hole in comparison to the old one? Did it overlap? Was filling the old one needed? Thanks!
 
I'm not sure if you fixed the engine dieing when your engine idles down when you come to a stop. From the direction the thread is going, it seems like you've concluded that it's the idle stop screw backing off. That wouldn't explain why you can restart the bike and then it idles fine from the restart.

... But maybe this does... If you come to a stop and it dies while the bike is in gear and you are using the clutch, then maybe the clutch plates are dragging just enough to snuff the bike at idle. When you go to restart the bike, you can't be holding the clutch in, and the bike has to be in neutral, so there is no clutch drag and the bike idles fine... Just another possible scenario that explains the two idle results you have gotten..

Obviously the test of this theory is to hit neutral before you come to a stop and see if it still stalls the engine..
 
o0norton0o said:
I'm not sure if you fixed the engine dieing when your engine idles down when you come to a stop. From the direction the thread is going, it seems like you've concluded that it's the idle stop screw backing off. That wouldn't explain why you can restart the bike and then it idles fine from the restart.

... But maybe this does... If you come to a stop and it dies while the bike is in gear and you are using the clutch, then maybe the clutch plates are dragging just enough to snuff the bike at idle. When you go to restart the bike, you can't be holding the clutch in, and the bike has to be in neutral, so there is no clutch drag and the bike idles fine... Just another possible scenario that explains the two idle results you have gotten..

Obviously the test of this theory is to hit neutral before you come to a stop and see if it still stalls the engine..
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Sorry I wasn't clearer. When it died I would readjust the idle screw and then it would idle just fine.

Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to test ride it since adding the washer to see if that will help. Hopefully tomorrow.
 
swooshdave said:
Can you show a picture of where you put the new hole in comparison to the old one? Did it overlap? Was filling the old one needed? Thanks!
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Hi Dave, it is 6mm closer to the edge of the plate (on the same perpendicular line). I didn't really need to fill the hole to be honest. I just realized as well the I actually didn't use a washer in the end, I just bent the sharp end of the spring so it didn't dig in.

Bike dies at stops
 
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Hmmm, I might need to remove that washer if it doesn't work. I need bend the spring end in a bit so maybe that will do it.

My brother has the same setup and hasn't had any issues yet.
 
swooshdave said:
Hmmm, I might need to remove that washer if it doesn't work. I need bend the spring end in a bit so maybe that will do it.

My brother has the same setup and hasn't had any issues yet.
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The washer will work as the spring won't be able to dig into steel. I did have one on mine initially, then I realized that I could bend the spring, so I held the end between two pairs of needle nosed pliers and made a little ramp, (you can see it in the picture). It's sharp there because the spring was cut to length and doesn't have the flat finishing coils like you see on the other end. You could probably get another spring from a hardware shop. I also noticed your spring seems to creep over the edge of the brass end, so you could probably fit a smaller diameter one. Thinking about it you only need to stop it binding on one end, so you should be ok with a washer I reckon. and once you solved the backing off issue you won't need to keep adjusting it. I only changed the position of the screw as I took the whole lot off to investigate the poor idling, and found a horror story inside the (I was told) new Amal Premiers....

Amal Premiers

Monoblocs and GPs - hard chromed brass slides in zinc bodies, IIRC
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Bike dies at stops


Finally got back out today. It's my last chance before we get a good dose of rain on Saturday and cooler weather next week.

When I started the bike and it was still cold (warming up) it wouldn't hold the idle, I adjusted it up slightly to keep the idle at 1000 rpm. I then went out for bit (85˚F) and when I stopped the idle was up to 1200rpm, I adjusted it back down to 1000 rpm. When I got home the idle was still at 1000 rpm. We'll see if she holds next time.

Otherwise I'm keeping it until 4k while breaking in the engine. Any thoughts on that? Or should I be revving it higher? I'm definitely not keeping it a steady rpm.
 
I think your bike behaves normal. Most of my bikes don't idle at all when cold as I set idling when warmed up. Except the Vincent where you need a cold idle to get it off the rear stand and then adjust idle when warmed up. The problem seems to be an impractical idle adjusting screw.
On your breaking in question which is an open a can of worms question. There might be a reason why manufacturers recommend a rev limit. Even my Ninja with a 12500 rpm redline came with a 4000 rpm limit for the first 500 miles, then 6000 up to 1000 miles. I've been taught that the important thing is to break in without hard accelerations and downshifting going uphill. Only a small amount of throttle. But you can see a lot of other opinions on the web.
 
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