Amal Premiers

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i installed premiers on my 750 years ago. one of the best things i did. starts first kick even after a month of sitting, idle perfect and solid
 
I have some free time, today I was made redundant from a job I wasn’t too keen on. Yesterday I was offered a job that I turned down, I called back today to say I was interested and the job has now been offered internally so I now need to go through the interview process rather than it being a shoe in. On the plus side tomorrow I’m going to set up my new carbs.

Dave
 
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Carbs are now set up, 260 mains, needle in the centre groove and the air screws are both are around 1 3/4 turns out. Been out for a test ride of around 40 miles just to check all is well and other than the carbs being slightly out of balance all is good, I did the initial balance with lollipop sticks and finished off with the vacuum gauges, I suspect one of the cables has settled. Plugs are perfect colour and performance is good and crisp. So all in all I'm very pleased.

Dave
 
Good luck on the job interview...
I'll be fitting soon onto my new pair of premiers one off Mr Madass's most fantastic carb support frames, so balancing should be a dream...
 
So every time I have a go at the carbs I keep refining my methology. I now take the carbs off the bike (manifolds in situ, it's just that last inside bolt!). First check the slides clear the throat at full throttle, then check they both move at the same time off idle (this is with idle adjuster screws removed). I then get a suitably sized socket, open the throttle half way and check for a similar fit of socket under the slide. I then refit the idle screws, find where they just bind on the slide, then turn in 1/2 to 1 turn (just remember what it is). Run it for a few miles then put the old manometer on for the scientific approach.

Forgot to mention setting idle, but well documented else where and easy to do, assuming fuel tunnel clear behind jet!
 
Hi Dave, I finally got a chance to instal my premiers yesterday. All went well but I found that I had to pump the ticklers 20 + times to get fuel to squirt out. Are yours the same? My old Amal’s only needed about 4-5 pumps, but I did find that my floats were a bit high when I pulled them apart. Do I need to see the fuel squirt out or should I just give it a few pumps and start?
Cheers, Pete.
 
You don’t actually have to pump the ticklers. Just push and hold, either your floats are too low or the (tickler) pins are too short. Holding 2 to 3 seconds first ride of the day should be the right sort of time.
 
You don’t actually have to pump the ticklers. Just push and hold, either your floats are too low or the (tickler) pins are too short. Holding 2 to 3 seconds first ride of the day should be the right sort of time.
Thanks Steves,
As you can tell, I am new to Nortons and Amals. When I first got the bike I was told to ‘ pump the ticklers’ so that’s what I’ve been doing.
Pumping away like a madman:eek:
Ya learn something new every day. :)
Cheers, Pete.
 
All went well but I found that I had to pump the ticklers 20 + times to get fuel to squirt out. Are yours the same? My old Amal’s only needed about 4-5 pumps,

Yes, as Steves said, you should find the carbs flood more quickly if you depress the ticklers and hold in the down position, as each time the tickler is released it shuts off the flow, however, if it takes more than a few seconds then either the fuel/float height is too low or the tickler pin possibly needs extending by pulling the pin out of the tickler button slightly.
 
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Thanks L.A.B. And Steves,
Now I get it, I understand how it works. I was thinking it was like a little primer pump.
Owning a Norton is a voyage of discovery.
 
I tickle until I see the fuel has wetted the gasket between the bowl and the carb body. At that point it's about ready to drip off the bottom of the bowl. I've heard the racers go crazy when they see that.
 
Ah yes, scent the air with Shell's finest no ethanol premium, have bystanders say "Now you've flooded it" and then kick her to life!
 
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Did a final tweak to the carbs today then went for a 40 mile road test and they’re now spot on. Steady tick over, no hesitation throughout the range, good power and a nice plug colour. Really couldn’t be happier.

Dave
 
And once they are set up like that, you won't have to touch them again for a long time. With the availability of the Premiere Concentric, I can't see any need to convert to other carbs or single carbs.

Glen
 
So latest update, went out for a spin round Wales earlier this week and I was getting the odd ‘cough’ from the carbs under load with mid throttle openings. Got home and had a look at the plugs and they were on the limit of acceptable erring towards lean so yesterday I raised the needles one clip. All is good so far but the result was not so good, the bike ran like a bag of nails one plug was sooty and obviously very rich and the other on the rich side of acceptable. Time got the better of me so I left it until this afternoon to take a look, I suspected the needle on the over rich side wasn’t fully home in the bottom of the slide. This afternoon came and I pulled the carb tops, both the needles were seated, checked the synchronisation with the lollipop stick method and they were spot on, reset the air screws to 1 1/2 out and the throttle stops 1 turn in from fist contact with the slides. The result was almost perfect from the off, after adjusting the air screws they are very close to the 1 1/2 turns base setting and the throttle stops needed a further 1/4 turn. The bike runs great, pulls really well and has nice steady 1,000 rpm tick over.

I’m not sure what I did wrong yesterday as I followed the same methodology as today but something wasn’t right, I still suspect that the richer side needle hadn’t seated and must have slid home as I removed the slides this afternoon. Anyway all is good now, the ‘cough’ has been cured and the plugs are a perfect light tan.

Off to the pub now for a few pints

Dave
 
Dave,
Once you are happy with the carb settings, mark your idle screw with a paint pen or dab of paint at one end of the slot of the screw head and right beside on the part of the body of the carb. This is to keep an eye, if the screws tend to move from vibration over time. Do the same for the slide stops. My carbs are re-sleeves and as old as the bike. I just put a dab of RTV silicone sealant on half of the screw and a little pushed in past the screw circumference. This method is a set and forget unless you need to dive in there again.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
Dave,
Once you are happy with the carb settings, mark your idle screw with a paint pen or dab of paint at one end of the slot of the screw head and right beside on the part of the body of the carb. This is to keep an eye, if the screws tend to move from vibration over time. Do the same for the slide stops. My carbs are re-sleeves and as old as the bike. I just put a dab of RTV silicone sealant on half of the screw and a little pushed in past the screw circumference. This method is a set and forget unless you need to dive in there again.
Cheers,
Thomas
Thomas,

Thank you, I did mark the screws after I finished yesterday I like the idea of the RTV.

Cheers
Dave
 
Hi Dave, I finally got a chance to instal my premiers yesterday. All went well but I found that I had to pump the ticklers 20 + times to get fuel to squirt out. Are yours the same? My old Amal’s only needed about 4-5 pumps, but I did find that my floats were a bit high when I pulled them apart. Do I need to see the fuel squirt out or should I just give it a few pumps and start?
Cheers, Pete.
Hi Pete,

Sorry only just seen this. The first time I tickled them they took ages to flood but subsequent tickles seem quicker. I tickle them until I see fuel.

Dave
 
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