'76 MK III Rectifier location?

Hello,

I just purchased a 1976 Mk III Commando and am curious about the PO's locating of this Podtronics Rectifier. Is there a better location than this for it, or is this a "high performance set up", lol? I don't mean to be overly critical, maybe there is some advantage to this method, but it looks funky to me.

Also in the pic a bracket can be seen attaching the left side cover to the frame with a grey rubber coated strap. It was bare silver aluminum, but I have painted it black for now. Is this brackets presence due to the air box having been removed, or am I missing another stock part which could be replaced?

Edfury828 said:

Is this brackets presence due to the air box having been removed,

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Yes, the bracket was attached to the Mk3 airbox (by rivets).

L.A.B. said:

Yes, the bracket was attached to the Mk3 airbox (by rivets).

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.

andover-norton.co.uk

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Ah, thanks L.A.B. Now I recall reading that many sidecovers have come off due to Dzus fasteners failing. That's where the Dzus was! Mine cover is now securely bolted on, so I think I'll just leave that be, at least until I can get around to making a bracket that looks a bit nicer.

I'll see if there's an Andover exploded diagram for Rectifier location. Sorry I'm so new that I don't even know where a rectifier goes, doh!

Edfury828 said:

Ah, thanks L.A.B. Now I recall reading that many sidecovers have come off due to Dzus fasteners failing. That's where the Dzus was! Mine cover is now securely bolted on, so I think I'll just leave that be, at least until I can get around to making a bracket that looks a bit nicer.

I'll see if there's an Andover exploded diagram for Rectifier location. Sorry I'm so new that I don't even know where a rectifier goes, doh!

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Ok, now I've found a 24b Podtronics Rectifier Mount kit. Did that bolt to the airbox, or could it bolt up to my airbox-less Mk III?

The original Mk3 (half-wave) rectifier (the black item) attached to the plate in the battery compartment. The (two on the Mk3) Zener diodes (the voltage regulators) attached one to each Z-plate.

Edfury828 said:

Ok, now I've found a 24b Podtronics Rectifier Mount kit. Did that bolt to the airbox, or could it bolt up to my airbox-less Mk III?

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I'm not exactly sure about the Podtronics mounting kit but with no airbox, the reg/rec. could be attached to the the battery tray or anywhere that has some airflow.

Thanks again L.A.B., I appreciate your help! It looks like I have an open slate for creativity!

The 24b plate I mentioned is on the exploded diagram from Andover for my bikes electrical components. I couldn't tell where anything goes though, so I thought I'd ask.

I am enjoying learning, and finding a few things yet to be done on my "Sorted Norton". As soon as my new rose nut spanner arrives I'll be tightening my loose pipes with a 2' bar, woo-hoo!

Edfury828 said:

The 24b plate I mentioned is on the exploded diagram from Andover for my bikes electrical components.

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Ok, although 24d is the mounting plate. 24b is the 3-phase reg/rec with bracket. Your Podtronics looks like 3-phase so the alternator stator should also be 3-phase. The original stator would have been the high(er) output single-phase RM23.

Edfury828 said:

I am enjoying learning, and finding a few things yet to be done on my "Sorted Norton". As soon as my new rose nut spanner arrives I'll be tightening my loose pipes with a 2' bar, woo-hoo!

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Ok, but take it easy with the 2' bar as the threads inside the head can strip which is some learning best avoided if possible and I suggest you do the tightening with the head hot, preferably with the engine running.

Also, you mentioned in a previous thread...

Edfury828 said:

...the bike has spent it's whole life in Canada...

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...therefore, would have (originally) had the Canadian "automatic headlight on after starting" 06.6392 warning light control unit and Canadian model ignition switch.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16803/w-light-control-unit-canada-

See Mk3 factory manual section J8 and wiring diagram for more information. My apologies, of course, if you were already aware of this.

That 24d mounting plate looks nice, but I don't know where it mounts to on the bike. I'm noticing Andover gives the most minimal descriptions of their items too. I also buy parts from Hitchcocks in England for my Enfield and they are the same. You just get a picture and maybe one sentence. Could be an English, or European thing? They do say the tool tray (which I recently ordered) will require some modification...

I agree my Rectifier does look like the 3-phase. My electrical knowledge is pretty minimal, and I admit, I don't understand, but I thought 3-phase was an upgrade.

Even with having a rebuilt Prestolight starter motor, upgraded harness, and larger battery, I would ideally want all of the power I could get out of the alternator stator for charging after a difficult start. I will have to look into my choices on that subject later!

I did not know about the Canadian headlight parts which should be on my bike. Is there a thread about that? I could search that myself and see what I can learn there.

I will say this, the PO put an LED headlight bulb in, and now it is always on as long as the key is on. There are 3 detents in the headlight switch. The first makes a dim beam, second is a brighter beam, and the third goes back to dim. He said it only did that after the new LED was put in. Another mystery for me!

I am at work now, but I will look up section J8 of my original Factory service, or workshop manual tonight and see what I can find.

Oh, and I do have new threaded inserts in my (motorcycle) head. Also single 750 type type pipes with no crossover, and longer threaded rose nuts.

I may double up the copper donut gaskets, or use some Suzuki steel spacers that a forum post said were reccomended in the Tech Digest. After ordering them I found no mention of them in my copy of the TD...

The proper tightening process as I understand it is, use anti-sieze on the threads and tighten rose nuts using Norton spanner (which I now have) and a two foot pipe, with bike on centerstand, and engine warm and running.

Pull on pipe / spanner until bike lifts, but does not tip over. Go for long ride, then repeat until nut stays tight on its own. Check tension periodically from then on out.

I may also fabricate some exhause support brackets as Concours did, which would connect the engine cradle to the exhaust pipe near the silencer joint. That would be a little later on the priority list, but looks like a good idea to me!

In gratitude,
Ed

Edfury828 said:

That 24d mounting plate looks nice, but I don't know where it mounts to on the bike. I'm noticing Andover gives the most minimal descriptions of their items too. I also buy parts from Hitchcocks in England for my Enfield and they are the same. You just get a picture and maybe one sentence. Could be an English, or European thing? They do say the tool tray (which I recently ordered) will require some modification...

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Yes, as it's not "factory" then the fun part of how to mount it is basically left up to you.

Edfury828 said:

I agree my Rectifier does look like the 3-phase. My electrical knowledge is pretty minimal, and I admit, I don't understand, but I thought 3-phase was an upgrade.

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Yes, so your Mk3 appears to have been upgraded to the higher output RM24 3-phase charging system.

Edfury828 said:

Even with having a rebuilt Prestolight starter motor, upgraded harness, and larger battery, I would ideally want all of the power I could get out of the alternator stator for charging after a difficult start. I will have to look into my choices on that subject later!

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Seems like that's already been done (3-phase).

Edfury828 said:

I did not know about the Canadian headlight parts which should be on my bike. Is there a thread about that? I could search that myself and see what I can learn there.

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Edfury828 said:

I am at work now, but I will look up section J8 of my original Factory service, or workshop manual tonight and see what I can find.

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Yes, I suggest you read J8 first.

Edfury828 said:

I will say this, the PO put an LED headlight bulb in, and now it is always on as long as the key is on. There are 3 detents in the headlight switch. The first makes a dim beam, second is a brighter beam, and the third goes back to dim. He said it only did that after the new LED was put in. Another mystery for me!

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There should be two detents, Main/High and Dip/Low beams (marked HI - LO on the LH switch cluster).

Edfury828 said:

Could be an English, or European thing? They do say the tool tray (which I recently ordered) will require some modification...

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I don't know why the Mk3 tool tray would require modification. What's shown in AN's picture should fit as it is (or it did!).

L.A.B. said:

I don't know why the Mk3 tool tray would require modification. What's shown in AN's picture should fit as it is (or it did!).

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

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Oops, my fault on the headlight switch. I was using the red one on the right grip. Probably because that's where the headlight switch is on my other bikes. Maybe I should pay attention? Doh!

I will look at that tonight too. The PO did agree with me that the new LED doesn't work right though... and he must've thought I was using the correct switch?

Though the reg/rec looks to be three phase, it will work fine with a single phase alternator. To check what you have, just look how many wires are coming out the primary to the R/R unit....two or three?

The reason for Pod mount instruction to modify tool tray is likely b/c a common location for the mount is rear side of the frame plate before the rear mudguard, basically near the tool tray location. But I'd just find a suitable location with some airflow...I think the pod unit likes to be fully in contact with a metal surface to aid heat transfer. I run a Trispark RR that has lower operating temp and does not need a heat sink mounting.

Edfury828 said:

The PO did agree with me that the new LED doesn't work right though...

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Yes, there have been problems with (BPF?) LED headlamp bulbs not working as they should.
Example:

Tornado said:

The reason for Pod mount instruction to modify tool tray is likely b/c a common location for the mount is rear side of the frame plate before the rear mudguard, basically near the tool tray location. But I'd just find a suitable location with some airflow...I think the pod unit likes to be fully in contact with a metal surface to aid heat transfer. I run a Trispark RR that has lower operating temp and does not need a heat sink mounting.

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With no standard airbox then there are two threaded potential Pod bracket mounting holes at the front of the battery tray (one not visible in the picture) or a third hole (visible further back) if the warning light control unit (Canadian) or standard assimilator isn't fitted. Edit: However, I think I can see it in one of your previous pictures.

Yes, that location pictured is available! I just ran a zip tie through that hole to hold a smart charger plug, but it can be adjusted. The reg/ rec can be mounted there! That's got to be better than the present location (zip tied to the frame).

I may make my own mounting plate also. Maybe paint the plate with black radiator paint to help dissipate the heat just a little better?

I have reached out to the LED headlight site from that link, to obtain a proper bulb. I had never even heard of BPF headlights. I did know LEDs can be polarity sensitive, but I didn't realize my wiring was even different from H4. I really appreciate all the help on these things. It will make a big difference for me and my bike!

Edfury828 said:

I have reached out to the LED headlight site from that link, to obtain a proper bulb. I had never even heard of BPF headlights. I did know LEDs can be polarity sensitive, but I didn't realize my wiring was even different from H4.

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You might want to check it is BPF before ordering if you haven't already done so as the PO could have upgraded the headlight assembly (to H4 LED, etc.).

I used the Andover Norton bracket to fit mine, and modified the tool tray slightly.

Bilko said:

I used the Andover Norton bracket to fit mine, and modified the tool tray slightly.
View attachment 110406View attachment 110407

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Your bike looks stunning, please post pics when it's up and running.

Thanks Bilko! The location picture is worth 1,000 words, as they say. I like it! Luckily, I haven't gotten into the job yet, being distracted by other things...

I wondered what AN meant by how I may need to slightly modify the tool tray. Now I can find out That's a very spotless bike you have. I will be cleaning mine up as time allows, working toward something like yours. Mine's in pretty good shape, but the PO was more of a "patina" guy, doh!