Possible location for tri-spark rectifier regulator on MKIII

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I just wanted to share a potential location for people upgrading to a tri-spark system. After exploring a lot of possibilities I found that the rectifier regulator fits nicely onto the front of the battery tray where the air box previously mounted. I used several spare tank rubber washers behind it for a little vibration damping. I thought this was a nice place that while not stock does look fairly intentional, requires no modifications, and might hopefully get better airflow than other locations I’ve seen. Could very well have been done before but I didn’t find it suggested when I was searching options. Hope it helps someone!

Possible location for tri-spark rectifier regulator on MKIII
 
I just wanted to share a potential location for people upgrading to a tri-spark system. After exploring a lot of possibilities I found that the rectifier regulator fits nicely onto the front of the battery tray where the air box previously mounted. I used several spare tank rubber washers behind it for a little vibration damping. I thought this was a nice place that while not stock does look fairly intentional, requires no modifications, and might hopefully get better airflow than other locations I’ve seen. Could very well have been done before but I didn’t find it suggested when I was searching options. Hope it helps someone!

Possible location for tri-spark rectifier regulator on MKIII
I have mine located just above on the bracket and set back a few inches and have had no issues for the last 15 years also with a tri-spark .
 
Having the stock Mk2A plastic airbox I mounted the MOSFET on the upper rear mudguard plate.
Acetyl insulators with brass washers and the stainless pin with positive stop is the rubberised (fuel tank rubber disc's) guard/fender mount as is the lower guard mount. (rubberised)
Two M3 dome head cap screws hold it in place (no load)

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Whatever works but am not sure the Tri-Spark Mosfet has been around 15 years.
 
Will those hex nuts stay in place with vibration and the cushioning of the rubber isolators ?
 
Having the stock Mk2A plastic airbox I mounted the MOSFET on the upper rear mudguard plate.
Acetyl insulators with brass washers and the stainless pin with positive stop is the rubberised (fuel tank rubber disc's) guard/fender mount as is the lower guard mount. (rubberised)
Two M3 dome head cap screws hold it in place (no load)

View attachment 86211 View attachment 86212 View attachment 86213

Whatever works but am not sure the Tri-Spark Mosfet has been around 15 years.
You might be correct as the regulator was installed around 15 years ago and still works great so i have not had the need to take it off .
It was part of a CNW kit that included the trispark ignition and a 3 phase alternator
 
Will those hex nuts stay in place with vibration and the cushioning of the rubber isolators ?
That’s a beautiful mount you made!

It’s a good point, I was hoping thread lock would work fine but I may switch to nylon lock nuts. At that point I’d expect it to hold just as well as the mounts for the tank do.
 
An idea for you...If you ran your fuel line up the right side of the Mikuni it would give you better access to the choke lever and throttle adjusting screw.
 
That’s a beautiful mount you made!

It’s a good point, I was hoping thread lock would work fine but I may switch to nylon lock nuts. At that point I’d expect it to hold just as well as the mounts for the tank do.

Thanks, the Tri-Spark guy liked it also, I am lucky enough to have the tools to make things even if over the top.
That was an easy job compared to the head steady.

Possible location for tri-spark rectifier regulator on MKIII

The MOSFET is supposed to run cool so it should be OK back there behind the battery.
 
I have mine located just above on the bracket and set back a few inches and have had no issues for the last 15 years also with a tri-spark .
Years ago, Tri-Spark sold Tri-Spark branded PODTronics. When PODTronics was sold they could no longer get Tri-Spark branded. Then when PODtronics started causing a lot of electrical noise, Tri-Spark quit selling them. On 27 Nov 2019, Tri-Spark announced their own MOSFET-based regulator. Air flow was fairly important for PODtronics but not for the Tri-Spark MOSFET. You wouldn't want it in a closed box but as long as there is free air around it, it's fine - no need for air blowing on it.

So, you may have a "Tri-Spark" regulator for 15 years, but it is not a Tri-Spark MOSFET regulator. Also, the old PODtronics are less efficient than the MOSFET, but they do their job well - the ones manufactured in the past several years I would not use and cannot use with Tri-Spark ignitions.
 
Another location possibility below - I will be using a YTX12 12v 12ah (Motoclassic) AGM which fits nicely with this setup. The battery mounting will not require the battery box hole, so this is now the bottom bolt for the MOSFET unit which tucks perfectly into the corner of the battery box with the holes lined up - go figure! A short metal strip runs on the front and allows the second bolt arrangement at the top, with a lock washer between the metal strip and the MOSFET body, and both nuts being nyloc. The yellow wires will run down to my alternator, and the red and black up the frame rail into a pair of connectors (BRN/GRN; RED) from the harness which allows full disconnection from the main loom.

QUESTION: Does it matter which pair of MOSFET yellow wires I use for my single phase 2-wire alternator? I ask because of the single yellow, uppermost, that might be different than the others? Thanks in advance for answers and any comments you might have (ignore the light green/brown wire mistake - I replaced that wire!).

Possible location for tri-spark rectifier regulator on MKIII
Possible location for tri-spark rectifier regulator on MKIII
 
QUESTION: Does it matter which pair of MOSFET yellow wires I use for my single phase 2-wire alternator? I ask because of the single yellow, uppermost, that might be different than the others? Thanks in advance for answers and any comments you might have (ignore the light green/brown wire mistake - I replaced that wire!).
No, use any two.
 
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