73 Resurection and stupid questions

Although not mentioned in manual, I think tightening the stub axle first eliminates any possible multiplied forces on the end of the main axle.

Bare with me here.
If you tighten the main axle first then there is space to be taken up by the stub axle because it is yet to be tightened. Since the main axle is threaded into the stub and is butted up on the other side, tightening the stub then pulls dramatically on the main axle when tightened bringing it well beyond the torque setting when tightened first. There is nothing left for the main axle to do but POP right at the thread line.


Many main axle fail where the threads end. The machining of the thread may create a weak point. I do not know this to be a fact but I do believe in its possibility for this is where the axles fail 99 to 100 persent of the time.

delete

pete.v said:

If you tighten the main axle first then there is space to be taken up by the stub axle because it is yet to be tightened.

Click to expand...

Where is this "space" supposed to be?

Here is what I did. snugged up both axles and adjusted chain. Tightened stub axle to 50 ft/lbs the main axle to 50, rechecked chain adjustment, then tightened stub to 80 and then main to 80. It did feel about right at those setting. I did the front axle to 60 ft/lbs and then snugged up the pinch bolt.

Seemed to work for me.

Marc

Marc, sound good but put bike on center stand and spin the back wheel to ensure smooth no binding

one CAN over tighten the rear to the point of restricted movement especially if the swing arm legs are not parallel or if a spacer is missing in your reassembly

Thanks. Rear wheel runs smooth and chain runs straight. Lots of little things to do but it is back on its feet and running again.

Here are some really bad pics to let you kind of know what is going on.

Before, back in 2000 something when the PO got the bike.



Today after the PO did quite a bit of work and I have done a LOT more.





It was leaking out of the primary cover and I pulled that apart today. Looks like when I start it up there is a trickle of oil that is dripping off the alternator. I put a new gasket in and will run it for a while and see. I am hoping that after riding it a bit this will solve itself as it has been sitting for 10 years and hope I don't have to really tear into it down deep.

Thank everyone for the invaluable information and I am sure there will be more to come.

Marc

L.A.B. said:

pete.v said:

If you tighten the main axle first then there is space to be taken up by the stub axle because it is yet to be tightened.

Click to expand...

Where is this "space" supposed to be?

Click to expand...

I don't know, I could be all wet here. It just seems to make sense to me. I certainly can't hurt to do it this way unless you say differently. Maybe it doesn't matter. I will go with whatever you say.
I'm sorry, I'll delete it if you want me to.

I'm trying to be a kinder, gentler, more agreeable member this New Year.
Happy New Year everyone.

YIKES!!! Marc 80 freaking lbft of torque scares the snot out of me with two broken axles under me belt. You should start with the stub/dumbass axle with brake applied to center them before nip down fully on study's nut but only enough so not to come loose as nil side loads to undo anyway, then nip down the long axle about 50ish or risk over loading the stress riser ever lurking in the last thread engaged in the dumpass part. A down dirty wheel or rather chain alignment is stick a finger in the space of tire and swing arm and nip down when they are about equal, anymore is just feel good inside pastime and rather less in-linement than a torquey purposeful spirited ride just short of isolastic baby buggy hinging of untamed tire mis alignments rebounds. If your spacers are not absolutely perfect match with all the inner races, with 80 lbft torque you are straining the snot of the bearings too so setting up the next guy for too soon a change out and more rolling heating resistance for you.

pete.v said:

L.A.B. said:

pete.v said:

If you tighten the main axle first then there is space to be taken up by the stub axle because it is yet to be tightened.

Click to expand...

Where is this "space" supposed to be?

Click to expand...

I don't know, I could be all wet here. It just seems to make sense to me. I certainly can't hurt to do it this way unless you say differently. Maybe it doesn't matter. I will go with whatever you say.
I'm sorry, I'll delete it if you want me to.

Click to expand...

No, I was simply trying to understand your thinking, how you'd arrived at that conclusion.

From my way of thinking, the main axle won't even begin to tighten until the stub axle has been drawn hard up against the hub bearing spool assembly, the ends of the swingarm also not being two "immovable objects" they will move inwards during the tightening process, so there shouldn't be any gap or space remaining in the assembly, whichever way it is tightened.

pete.v said:

I'm trying to be a kinder, gentler, more agreeable member this New Year.

Click to expand...

No need to overdo it. The novelty will soon wear off. :mrgreen:

On the wet sumping issue. Not that I have the bike up and running quite yet, but has anyone found a quick drain valve that would fit in the sump drain hole? It seems to me that it is quite the pain and mess to pull the plug every time you go out and ride the bike.

We used these on aircraft but I have not found one for a 3/8x16 thread.

Marc

lomaxcm said:

On the wet sumping issue. Not that I have the bike up and running quite yet, but has anyone found a quick drain valve that would fit in the sump drain hole? It seems to me that it is quite the pain and mess to pull the plug every time you go out and ride the bike.

We used these on aircraft but I have not found one for a 3/8x16 thread.

Marc

Click to expand...

I have often thought of incorporating something like this into the drain plug. Yet, I think it is important to leave at least 5 to 7 ounces in the sump at all times. This is the amount that is left from drain down after running.

lomaxcm said:

On the wet sumping issue. Not that I have the bike up and running quite yet, but has anyone found a quick drain valve that would fit in the sump drain hole? It seems to me that it is quite the pain and mess to pull the plug every time you go out and ride the bike.

We used these on aircraft but I have not found one for a 3/8x16 thread.

Marc

Click to expand...

Here's what I put on my bike to drain the sump.
http://www.oldbritts.com/11_067281.html

Today I got the bike all back together and it is ready for a test ride. Too bad there is snow everywhere. :?





How I feel sometimes.



Marc

Banner day. :mrgreen: I finished up all the major projects on the bike and got it out for a quick 10 mile test ride. Everything went great and worked as it should.

The oil leak is gone ??? I think it was so badly wet sumped that it was pumping oil out the main shaft bearing. The primary case was quite full when I took it off. At least I am hopping that is the case and will keep a close eye on it.

After sitting for two weeks while working on it, It started second kick. The new Mikuni carb is doing its job. When I get the electronic ignition on it will be even easier to start. :roll:





For an experiment I put a valve in the oil return line, I did not want to go with the check valve as I have heard to many horror stories. Yes I know that I MUST be very careful and make sure the valve is on before starting but that is my decision to make at this time.



My interim solution to remember is this. Ye Ole' front brake lock reminder chord.



Now to tear back into it, double check everything, and make a few more improvements that I want to do. Then some nice weather will help and it is off for the ever bigger jaunts so it can prove itself to me.

Question: Do you thing the passenger grab bar looks weird with the solo seat? I just can't make up my mind.

Marc

Just don't forget to put the "reminder" cord on!

Are you going to make it to the Rally this year???? :wink:

grandpaul said:

Just don't forget to put the "reminder" cord on!

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OK, now what should I put as a reminder to remind me to put on the reminder ?? :lol:

Unfortunately work and Colorado rally's will probably keep me busy all year. That and cabin time, and working on bike, and, and.

Now another silly question for the group. On my 1974 Commando (the one in the avitar) I noticed that the speedo was on the left and the tach on the right. On this 73 the speedo is on the right and the tach on the left. ?????? Not that it really matters to me but what is the correct way ?

Marc

pete.v said:

lomaxcm said:

On the wet sumping issue. Not that I have the bike up and running quite yet, but has anyone found a quick drain valve that would fit in the sump drain hole? It seems to me that it is quite the pain and mess to pull the plug every time you go out and ride the bike.

We used these on aircraft but I have not found one for a 3/8x16 thread.

Marc

Click to expand...

I have often thought of incorporating something like this into the drain plug. Yet, I think it is important to leave at least 5 to 7 ounces in the sump at all times. This is the amount that is left from drain down after running.

Click to expand...

This will take it a step further... designed for purpose, lock notch, low profile http://www.qwikvalve.com/?gclid=CMHroMi ... OgodLGkAww

I did check with quikvalve and they do not have a 3/8x16 valve. I really don't feel like re-threading the drain plug.

Marc

You're asking if the grabrail looks wierd with the solo seat and in my opinion it does and looks better with the double seat. Also am concerned with your primary filling up with engine oil. This tells me the seal is old and gone and you may have to pull most of the primary just to fit a new one. They don't last forever.