1975 Norton 850 Restore

MS850 · Sep 9, 2015

L.A.B. said:
MS850 said:

So the recessed washer go on the outside of the main shaft clip, not behind the clip.

Click to expand...

Yes, on the outside, with recess facing the circlip so the washer fits over the circlip.

(That is the circlip which can be damaged if the clutch nut is torqued to the manual figure of 70 ft.lb.)

Thanks, that explains why the is damaged. I have a new one

MS850 · Sep 10, 2015

Ive got two types of head steady's, I know stock will feel less vibration, the other production race type.
Suggestions,

MS850 · Sep 10, 2015

MS850 said:
Ive got two types of head steady's, I know stock will feel less vibration, the other production race type.
Suggestions,

manx850 · Sep 10, 2015

Go with the PR type..............I have a Old Brits type on one bike & a CNW on another, both are excellent and a great improvement over standard, you will feel the difference............no noticeable difference in vibration.............

pete.v · Sep 10, 2015

manx850 said:
Go with the PR type..............I have a Old Brits type on one bike & a CNW on another, both are excellent and a great improvement over standard, you will feel the difference............no noticeable difference in vibration.............

I agree. To go beyond, I prefer the PR type over all others.

MS850 · Sep 10, 2015

Thanks,

There is grease on the PTFE washers , is that normal

MS850 · Sep 10, 2015

latest photo

pete.v · Sep 10, 2015

MS850 said:
Thanks,

There is grease on the PTFE washers , is that normal

No, they will collect dirt and degrade the teflon.
clean them.

manx850 · Sep 10, 2015

Looking good!...Just been through all that.

Torontonian · Sep 10, 2015

Yes , use that PR headsteady , isolastics are best without grease and I use a Teflon can of spray ,well shaken a-la James Bond , not stirred. Just peel back the rubbers and a small blast every now n' then should suffice.

MS850 · Sep 10, 2015

My next step is the clutch, I've been reading a lot of info on stack height, pressure plate to clip clearance, the clutch was very stiff driving it home.

MS850 · Sep 11, 2015

I found this on the on http://www.nortonownersclub.org/
Seems to work well, clutch is now easy, opinions?
Im using stock Bronze plates

Posted by bennie_hulshof at July 29. 2014

I followed what Dynodave points out here.
With Barnett plates, mine (Mk2 850) is now a true one-finger clutch, with no slipping.
Boils down to having the top of the ridge of the (original) pressure plate 5 mm below the edge of the clutch housing. It is then JUST possible to install the spring of the diaphragm.
Attached a picture of the stack height.

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc.../942923200/279713498/bijna_5mm_onder_huis.JPG

grandpaul · Sep 11, 2015

MS850 said:
Attached a picture of the stack height.
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc.../942923200/279713498/bijna_5mm_onder_huis.JPG

That appears to be a thick pressure plate. The dimension shown will be different with a thin one.

Perhaps important is that the teeth JUST appear above the surface of the edge of the clutch basket?

MS850 · Sep 11, 2015

grandpaul said:
MS850 said:

Attached a picture of the stack height.
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc.../942923200/279713498/bijna_5mm_onder_huis.JPG

Click to expand...

That appears to be a thick pressure plate. The dimension shown will be different with a thin one.

Perhaps important is that the teeth JUST appear above the surface of the edge of the clutch basket?

thanks for response,
my pressure plate and clutch basket gears are even, not like the picture. , does this sound good(normal).

grandpaul · Sep 14, 2015

If the pressure plate is flush with the edge of the basket, you would have to resort to a non-standard solution to raise it slightly. That means one of several solutions involving odd-thickness plain and friction plates, or combinations thereof.

I would go ahead with the assembly and see how the current setup performs. It may be just fine as-is.

MS850 · Sep 14, 2015

grandpaul said:
If the pressure plate is flush with the edge of the basket, you would have to resort to a non-standard solution to raise it slightly. That means one of several solutions involving odd-thickness plain and friction plates, or combinations thereof.

I would go ahead with the assembly and see how the current setup performs. It may be just fine as-is.

Thanks again Paul for getting back, here's a pic of where the clutch is now, I have an extra drive plate installed to get it to this height. Without the extra plate the spring has to go over center and its stiff but not as bad with the thinner Barnett fiber plates.
BTW I saw your website, very nice. If I lived closer I'd come by and swap bike stories.

MS850 · Sep 14, 2015

Next step rebuilding the rear master cylinder and both calipers.
i have a new Magura front master cyld.

MS850 · Sep 16, 2015

Here what I have for electrical, :evil: not sure what I plan on doing with this, I did just but a Centech AP-2 fuse box that Ill being installing. One thing that sucks is those connectors in the headlight bucket are bolted in, full of holes.
I removed most of the wires harness in one piece, pulled apart without removing the wires from the headlight bucket.
Ill figure it out,

MS850 · Sep 18, 2015

Im going to convert to Neg ground, I have Old Britts Power Arc electronic ignition and Boyer PBOX00108 Single Phase Powerbox 12v (114k) Regulator. I found this electrical schematic, which will get me started.
I have a bunch of bullet connectors left over from a CB750 project.
Any opinions or ideas.

http://www.doov.com/apps/nortoncompanion/images/stories/upgrades/73_Wiring_Diagram.gif

MS850 · Sep 21, 2015

Rebuilt Amal MK2 carb