1975 Norton 850 Restore

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Torontonian said:
Safety wiring these can be deceptive. Yes for racetrack. If the nut starts backing out then it can secretly chatter at the precious expensive head threads. I use high temp copper silicone on those threads and use all my strength with the proper wrench. Honda CB 350 exh. crush rings too. Better to let it back off entirely then at least you can HEAR the exh. leak and deal with it. :wink:
Click to expand...

Correct lock wiring keeps the nut under tension, loosening, and thus chattering cannot occur...
 
don't do that. after the first heat cycle take it out and make it work hard, I like to use 3rd and 4th gears and run it up under full throttle to about 6,000 and roll it off several times. it takes heat and cylinder pressure to seat rings not babying it and a lot of miles.

Torontonian said:
So baby that baby. :idea:
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L.A.B. said:
MS850 said:
bearing # in FAG NJ203E
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Good. That's one less job to do! :)
Check the condition of the layshaft 1st gear bush and the kickstart pawl.

As it has the NJ roller bearing check the end play:

"Check end play on the layshaft......"
https://www.oldbritts.com/gearbox_a.html
Click to expand...

trans going back together, followed Old Brits procedure for checking shims. There was no gasket when disassembled and .030 end play,
I had a shim and with a gasket the end play is now .010.
The shim I used was for a CB750 steering head bearing, fit perfect.
 
Has single Amal carb, L2036 301,
Slide, 2036 #3 cutaway
Throttle Needle, 2A1
Needle Jet - Size 106
Pilot Jet - 30
Main 300
 
Here's the latest,

1975 Norton 850 Restore

1975 Norton 850 Restore
 
Hello again, Im starting to installing everything on the primary side, anything I should be aware of?

thanks, mark
 
Hi Mark -

I have a 75 850 and just removed my primary for the first time being new to Nortons so I would say:

1. This is the most complicated starter reduction gear assembly I've ever seen. Take your time.
2. If you put in a new clutch, pay attention to the shim alignment to true up the primary chain.
3. Run the stabilizer nut between the crank and clutch back toward the engine mount plates, torque the case - then sandwich the case in its neutral position.
4. Don't over torque the primary to engine bolts - could ruin your whole day.

Again, I'm a newbie but this is what I took note of when I put mine back together.

Very nice work - and you really move along…

Andy --
 
Rotor-stator gap is important, there should be at least .008" minimum clearance.

The starter overload backfire device slip torque needs checking if it hasn't been done, don't assume it's set correctly.
https://www.oldbritts.com/e_start_backfire.html

If the "Clutch-to-mainshaft nut" is tightened to the listed torque figure of "70 lbs.ft" it has been known to break the 06-0752 clutch location circlip so torque to 40-45 lbs.ft with Loctite (some owners prefer to use a Belleville washer instead of the standard 06-3459 tab washer).

Also consider fitting the dynodave pushrod oil seal to prevent gearbox oil migrating along the push rod tunnel and contaminating the clutch plates.
http://atlanticgreen.com/ddccrs.htm

Double-check the accuracy of the timing scale using the timing port and crank slot in the timing side crankcase (3/4" hex plug below the timing chest).
 
Ditto on the starter slip clutch.
I found that mine wouldn't slip at 250lb/ft, the largest 1/2" drive torque wrench I have! I disassembled it and found it galled up and seized together. I was able to polish it out and adjust it properly.
 
If you have disassembled the hydraulic adjuster for the primary chain there is a gasket available to seal the cover to the body.
Make sure you prime it before you start the engine.

New "c" clip behind clutch basket and pay attention to washer orientation over that clip.

Correct rotation of sprag gear.

IMHO 7 ounces of 20-50 motorcycle oil to fill primary.

I use a little grease on all the starters gears.

I test fitted the inner primary and made a solid spacer instead of using two nuts on the chain case "steady" bolt. My inner nut would back off and leak.

Don't leave too much alternator wire in the primary or the chain could rub on it.

Pete
 
I need assistance, I dont think theses items were installed correctly, Can you tell me exactly where they go, Im a little confused by the manual and parts book.

1975 Norton 850 Restore

1975 Norton 850 Restore
 
http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g9.html


(1) Shims: = "16" & "17" (as required).

(2) Recessed washer: = "15" (recessed side to circlip "14").

(3)Washer: = "19"

(4) Tab washer: = "20"

(5) Nut: = "18"

(6) Push rod adjuster and locknut: = "8" & "9"

2nd photo.
I'm not exactly sure, but the sprocket nut may be fitted back to front? The curved face of the nut goes against the sprocket.
 
L.A.B. said:
http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g9.html


(1) Shims: = "16" & "17" (as required).

(2) Recessed washer: = "15" (recessed side to circlip "14").

(3)Washer: = "19"

(4) Tab washer: = "20"

(5) Nut: = "18"

(6) Push rod adjuster and locknut: = "8" & "9"

2nd photo.
I'm not exactly sure, but the sprocket nut may be fitted back to front? The curved face of the nut goes against the sprocket.
Click to expand...

So the recessed washer go on the outside of the main shaft clip, not behind the clip.
 
MS850 said:
So the recessed washer go on the outside of the main shaft clip, not behind the clip.
Click to expand...

Yes, on the outside, with recess facing the circlip so the washer fits over the circlip.

(That is the circlip which can be damaged if the clutch nut is torqued to the manual figure of 70 ft.lb.)
 
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