Stop damaging your motors with oil shut off valves

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Wet sumping actually saved my motor once. I had just drained the oil tank and replaced the drain plug when some emergency hit me (invading aliens from outer space or whatever). Later when I got back to my bike I started it and after a few seconds of idling on the stand I remembered draining the oil tank. The oil sloshing around in the sump forced its way into the shell bearings and the extra sump oil immediately pumped into the oil tank and covered up the feed pipe. No damage was done. I finished the oil change and have put thousands of miles on it since then.
 
worntorn said:
Side oiler 427 and SOHC 427 are two entirely different engines aren't they ?
The side oiler is pushrod.
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Same block, after that lots of variables between the Cammer and the Standard SO configuration.
Cammer (SOHC 427) and Side oiler can be configured with either solid or hydraulic lifters, depends on the application for the motor.
The side oiler block was developed because Ford's top oiler engines kept blowing up at high revs during races. They needed more oil on friction bearing surfaces for the revs they were turning. SO block was cast with new oil channels throughout with pressurized oil being delivered to all the crank shaft bearing girdles and on thru to the bearings and journals.
No more detonation, higher revs for longer duration.
Big breakthrough for FOMOCO at the time.
 
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...and then, of course, there are radial engines....!
 
Nobody has mentioned the AMR modification. I've done it on 3 Commandos. Two of them had only the check ball and oil pump mods which helped but they still need the sump drained if they sit for 6 months or so. The third one I did I had those 2 mods done plus the one to reroute the oprv drain. That bike doesn't wet sump at all, no matter how long it sits. I highly recommend the mods, but make sure you have all three done.
 
worntorn said:
I'm sure they do. Can you imagine the mess and time delay when draining all the sumps on a big Boeing or Airbus?
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My Commando also has a emerg shut off switch, plus the ign switch itself, both can lead to engine shut off if they ever fail. And my modern Bonneville has a shut off switch on the side stand, plus the clutch and neutral starter cut out switches.
So it seems the industry is quite fine with ign shut down setups for many systems.
 
Until there is an actual broken engine resulting from a valve with interlock, there's really not much to talk about on that type of valve. The catastrophic damage is all in the mind.

If you aren't comfortable having one on the bike, don't install one.
If you would like the convenience of the valve, go ahead and put one ( interlock type) on there. You won't have a problem.

Glen
 
kommando said:
The oil will be subject to centrifugal forces as the crank spins so until the oil is used up then the bearings will be lubricated, once the oil is gone then the damage will start, hence why engines will last a few mins with no new oil depending on the size and shape of the oil galleries.
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Nope! That would be true if the oil holes were 90 degrees out from where they are. About 1/2 of the oil in a full crank will not come out with the crank spinning.

Ignore all the stupid stuff you see in the picture - it was taken to show what an idiot did and has all be fixed.

Stop damaging your motors with oil shut off valves
 
htown16 said:
Nobody has mentioned the AMR modification. I've done it on 3 Commandos. Two of them had only the check ball and oil pump mods which helped but they still need the sump drained if they sit for 6 months or so. The third one I did I had those 2 mods done plus the one to reroute the oprv drain. That bike doesn't wet sump at all, no matter how long it sits. I highly recommend the mods, but make sure you have all three done.
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I mentioned it in post #9 on the 1st page.
Dan1950 said:
To me the logical solution is to place a place non-return check valve on the high pressure side of the oil pump.
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And was told it wasn't feasible.

Tornado said:
Not sure this is a possibility on Commando without engineering the casings. Unsure if oil sitting at high side gear of pump can make its way past to low side (return oil) gear then on down to sump. There was a recent thread where someone was struggling to solve very rapid wet sumping, looking at pump sealing to casings etc. Turned out oil was getting past pump in an unexpected fashion I think?
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If it is not feasible to have a check ball on the high pressure side, why did thousands of BSA's have one. My 70 Thunderbolt kept a rock steady oil level.
 
htown16 said:
If it is not feasible to have a check ball on the high pressure side, why did thousands of BSA's have one. My 70 Thunderbolt kept a rock steady oil level.
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My BSA b50 engine dosent seem to wet sump at all
The oil level didn't budge at all in the oil tank after nearly 3 months sitting
 
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