Stop damaging your motors with oil shut off valves

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kommando said:
The MK3 valve is a shaft not a ball and prone to hanging up on the sides of the gallery so no seal when that happens, plus you still need to do the oil pump O or X rings mod. So the AMR mods are both cheaper and more likely to work than a MK3 cover.
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"Shaft"? It is a piston similar to the one in the pressure relief valve and it has the beveled edge that the pressure relief valve always needed. I haven't had one fail but that doesn't mean that they don't. Yes, it does not address thee possibility of oil leaking from one side to the other of the oil pump.

For me, the MKIII cover has other advantages.

1) Saves time sanding and buffing the timing cover.
2) Don't have to wait for the mod
3) Comes with new seals
4) The old cover can be sold

I have absolutely nothing against AMR and may send a cover to have in stock if I replace one in good shape. However, with today's shipping costs and the add on charges, it's more than $100 - but, not nearly as much as the MKIII cover.
 
baz said:
Ha ha now you've done it kommando! :D :D :D why do you think I don't tell anyone I'm a fabricator/welder!!
Oops
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Sorry but I know from experience I can make mistakes, I have no spare oil pumps or timing covers and would feel duty bound to replace any I did not do 100%. So that's a no, but I will supply all technical info via PM so your local machinist can do the job.
 
I have two MK3s, one with a new AN timing cover and all new AN components. I also have an A 10 BSA.
All three bikes still wet sump, just not quite as quickly as some of those without the built-in check valve.
According to Matt at CNW, the AMR mod was a help but it only worked well on some bikes, about half iirc.
 
acadian said:
I made a similar mistake in telling club mates I was doing this for myself... 4 covers & pumps later... at least I got some beer out of it :cool:
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I very often get lumbered to make a rack or repair something at short notice
I'll get a phone call "high mate do you think you could make me a rack" "yeah I can do that" oh I need it the day after tomorrow!!!
Or a despatch rider mate that's broken his side stand and is going to lose a day's pay
So he brings it round late at night and it's not the side stand that's broken it's ripped completely out of the frame FFS!!
There are many many more
 
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I have laths and vertical and horizonal mills, But for $100 and years of experience why would I possibly waste a good engine experimenting! Best money I have spent on a Norton!
 
I am in the ‘no valve’ camp but would have the AMR mod done without hesitation if someone this side of the pond offered the service.

In fact, as my Commando is having something of a ‘fallow year‘ this year, I might even drum up enthusiasm to post my cover to AMR.

Can someone furnish me with their contact details please?
 
Fast Eddie said:
I am in the ‘no valve’ camp but would have the AMR mod done without hesitation if someone this side of the pond offered the service.

In fact, as my Commando is having something of a ‘fallow year‘ this year, I might even drum up enthusiasm to post my cover to AMR.

Can someone furnish me with their contact details please?
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Do you not have the sump plug reed valve on your Norton ?
If so why the worry?
 
I have embraced the sumping. Bought one of those sump plugs with a smaller drain bolt in it - so you don't have to work the crankcase threads each time you drain the oil. After a New England winter, drain the oil, pour back into the oil bag, and a few kicks starts her. Works for me.
 
BrianK said:
I have embraced the sumping. Bought one of those sump plugs with a smaller drain bolt in it - so you don't have to work the crankcase threads each time you drain the oil. After a New England winter, drain the oil, pour back into the oil bag, and a few kicks starts her. Works for me.
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I'm assuming you take some time to clean all the road dirt off the sump plug and surrounding area before placing an open container underneath?
 
Cleanliness is next to godliness :)

I have the same aftermarket drain plug set up, from AN. I rarely leave the bike unridden, even in winter. But if more than a couple of weeks, I collect the oil into a measuring container, then put the same amount of fresh oil into the tank. I think 3 or 4 weeks has been the longest and only about half a litre. Not sure it's ever been worth it, but as you say, takes only a couple of minutes and it's interesting to check it.
 
Isn't that what oil filters are for, I have no problems with using the old oil if its still good as I also run STP in my oil, pour it straight back in from the container and usually the crap sits on the bottom of the container if there is any, always clean the area around the sump plug before removal and clean the sump plug before refitting.
 
ashman said:
Isn't that what oil filters are for, I have no problems with using the old oil if its still good as I also run STP in my oil, pour it straight back in from the container and usually the crap sits on the bottom of the container if there is any, always clean the area around the sump plug before removal and clean the sump plug before refitting.
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The oil filter on a commando is on the return line
It's a bit late by then !
As long as it's clean underneath then it's fine to re use
 
BULLSHIT! I have a Fect&
jseng1 said:
Several people have contacted me about the disasterous results of running their motors dry because a shut off valve was used to prevent wet sumping. This has ruined some very fine motors that were in excellent condition prior to self imposed oil starvation. Sadly I just heard from another victim.

The solution is to never use a shutoff valve in the first place.

People are worried about wet sumping when there are safe easy solutions to get around it.

1. All motors take a few seconds to build up oil pressure. If all your oil runs into the sump there will be plenty of bottom end lubrication with the crank dipping into the oil until a few squirts of return oil cover the outlet tube in the oil tank. If you haven't started your bike in awhile and you're parinoid about it - add a cup of oil before kicking it over.

2. If you're nervous about blowing out a main seal then simply add a viton Oring between the sprocket and the main seal. 1/16" cross section x 1-1/16" ID. Use viton because regular Orings can crack when exposed to air over time.

3. If too much oil in the sump creates kick start resistance then you can install a reed valve sump breather that will help evacuate the excess oil to the oil tank.

Lots of motors have been ruined because of oil shut off valves. Practically none have been damaged from wet sumping. If you absolutely must have an oil shut off valve then spend the extra money for one that you must open before turning on the ignition key and make sure its fool proof.
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Bullshit Bullshit Bullshit ! I have been using a Fect oil cut-off valve for 6570 miles, If my Mk1 does not start after 3 revs CNW I know I have forgotten to turn on the oil tap. The tap is wired between the ground wire from the coil to the battery . Some have said that the switch in the tap may be too weak, well if that is the case the engine will stop not the oil flow,and it is quite easy to restor the ground wire to the coils and ride on.It takes 4/6 seconds for the return oil to start to bubble back to the tank @ 2500 rpm so what is the F
problem? My starting procedure is to turn on the oil ,turn on the fuel , tickle x2 turn on the key and push the button Max. When I arrive home I turn off the oil petrol and ignition
 
baz said:
The oil filter on a commando is on the return line
It's a bit late by then !
As long as it's clean underneath then it's fine to re use
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I clean the area underneath but also strain the oil. The strainer always has shards of grit on it afterwards.
Horrible stuff to put in an engine!
Maybe that's why most old British bikes don't make it very far before needing a rebuild?

Glen
 
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