Stop damaging your motors with oil shut off valves

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Just use a funnel with a good quality coffee filter paper to strain the oil going back in the tank.
The filter will catch any grit 15-30 microns in size.
Gives an interesting taste to your next cup of java too.
 
I've got a special oil strainer cloth and container here all set up for the operation, but that sounds like a good method.

I suspect most just dump the gritty oil directly back in, unaware of the harm done.
That's what I did for years until I found a tiny piece of stone partially occluding the oil line supplying lube to the rockers on one of the wet sumpers.
 
Ian James said:
BULLSHIT! I have a Fect&
Bullshit Bullshit Bullshit ! I have been using a Fect oil cut-off valve for 6570 miles, If my Mk1 does not start after 3 revs CNW I know I have forgotten to turn on the oil tap. The tap is wired between the ground wire from the coil to the battery . Some have said that the switch in the tap may be too weak, well if that is the case the engine will stop not the oil flow,and it is quite easy to restor the ground wire to the coils and ride on.It takes 4/6 seconds for the return oil to start to bubble back to the tank @ 2500 rpm so what is the F
problem? My starting procedure is to turn on the oil ,turn on the fuel , tickle x2 turn on the key and push the button Max. When I arrive home I turn off the oil petrol and ignition
Click to expand...
Switches fail in three general ways with these possible outcomes based on the way you're wired:

1) Fail open - bike won't start.
2) Fail partly closed or partly open. These are the most common. May or may not start when it should or shouldn't and weird problems when running. The kill switch is similar but it only affects the ignition, not the whole bike.
3) Fail closed - you die when the engine explodes, locks the rear wheel and you high-side at speed. Hopefully you have to ride at low speed for a while before going fast - maybe you'll survive. - engines can be rebuilt.

I did electromechanical repair for a long time and probably averaged one of #2 per week. The other two were much less common but certainly did happen - probably 2-3 times per year.

BTW, without a valve, the bottom end components always have oil as long as the oil tank level is above the feed. So how long it takes oil to start returning to the tank has nothing to do with parts being oiled. However with a valve, all internal components can drain some or all of their oil into the sump and it will take a little time for the pump to refill all when running (opening the valve doesn't refill them).

I'm 99.9% sure you're fine. I just hope that 1 in 1000 doesn't bite you :)
 
BritTwit said:
Just use a funnel with a good quality coffee filter paper to strain the oil going back in the tank.
Click to expand...
This method never worked for me. Maybe you have a different grade of paper to what I tried. The surface tension of oil is much higher than water, which made the paper filter virtually inpermeable, and it teared before long, leaving a mess.
Sedimentation for 24 hrs and and filtering through a thin layer of cotton cloth works best for me. I found an afterlife for worn-out underwear :)

- Knut
 
Ian James said:
BULLSHIT! I have a Fect&
Bullshit Bullshit Bullshit ! I have been using a Fect oil cut-off valve for 6570 miles, If my Mk1 does not start after 3 revs CNW I know I have forgotten to turn on the oil tap. The tap is wired between the ground wire from the coil to the battery . Some have said that the switch in the tap may be too weak, well if that is the case the engine will stop not the oil flow,and it is quite easy to restor the ground wire to the coils and ride on.It takes 4/6 seconds for the return oil to start to bubble back to the tank @ 2500 rpm so what is the F
problem? My starting procedure is to turn on the oil ,turn on the fuel , tickle x2 turn on the key and push the button Max. When I arrive home I turn off the oil petrol and ignition
Click to expand...
I know for a fact if you use any sort of valve, cut off or not, it will invalidated any guarantee of engine work done by Norman White. He quotes it in his invoices etc
 
Stop damaging your "ENGINE" rather than "motor" would be more appropriate.. A motor runs your windshield wiper and starter motor.... a fuel pump motor runs your fuel pressure to run an "engine."...
I can start an 1969 land rover with a hand crank with a dead battery. I can kickstart a commado or p11 without a motor on Mags. A Tailorcraft can be hand proped cranked an start on magnitotes. Maybe some engineers can determine whats the difference between a motor and an engine.
Not trying to hijack this but is a motor the right word?
my pet peve.
Cheers,
Tom
 
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CanukNortonNut said:
Stop damaging your "ENGINE" rather than "motor" would be more appropriate.. A motor runs your windshield wiper and starter motor.... a fuel pump motor runs your fuel pressure to run an "engine."...
I can start an 1969 land rover with a hand crank with a dead battery. I can kickstart a commado or p11 without a motor on Mags. A Tailorcraft can be hand cranked an start on magnitotes. Maybe some engineers can determine whats the difference between a motor and an engine.
Not trying to hijack this but is a motor the right word?
my pet peve.
Cheers,
Tom
Click to expand...
I agree, but dictionaries do not:

Motor:

a machine, especially one powered by electricity or internal combustion, that supplies motive power for a vehicle or for some other device with moving parts.

Engine:

a machine with moving parts that converts power into motion
 
Or this

Motor is defined as any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion such as a small compact engine, a gasoline engine, or a rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy
 
I am sorry for JS previous start post....but I have an issue with motor and engine.
what is the difference?
be clear now!
Engineers welcome.
Cheers,
T
 
Motor covers the works, electric, gas, diesel, even hydraulic.
An engine is a type of motor.
That's my take from reading a couple of official definitions.

Glen
 
CanukNortonNut said:
good question?
what is an engine, and what is a motor?
Click to expand...
Until today, I've always thought like you. Then I looked up the definition and realized that at 72, I was wrong. Then I got to thinking about the two-wheeled devices we ride and realized just how wrong I've been! Motor= Engine = Motor. Or, as worntorn said, an engine is a type of motor - most definitions I've looked up imply that.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Stop damaging your "ENGINE" rather than "motor" would be more appropriate.. A motor runs your windshield wiper and starter motor.... a fuel pump motor runs your fuel pressure to run an "engine."...
I can start an 1969 land rover with a hand crank with a dead battery. I can kickstart a commado or p11 without a motor on Mags. A Tailorcraft can be hand proped cranked an start on magnitotes. Maybe some engineers can determine whats the difference between a motor and an engine.
Not trying to hijack this but is a motor the right word?
my pet peve.
Cheers,
Tom
Click to expand...
The old drunk guy that taught me to rebuild VW engines when I was 15yo would rant about the same thing. A talented guy.
 
Now we are going off course from the OP post, engine/motor W T F its a motorcycle/bike some people make a big thing over words, as for refilling my drained oil back into the tank, well my Norton was a everyday rider for most of the 46 years of ownership and its only been semi retired 8 years ago and not riding it as much these days with my Thruxton taking over its main use, so in 8 years have only wet sump 3 times from letting it sit to long and oil don't get changed that much these days as when I was riding it everyday, as long as the container is clean the sump plug area is clean and the sump plug cleaned I have no problems putting the oil back into my tank with out filtering it and my Norton has well over 160k miles clocked up on it and have had no issues with the oil or pump, my oil pump has never been rebuilt still running original valve and tappets, have never pulled the rockers out run good oil and STP and it will last me till I leave this earth doing what I been doing for 46 years without a shut off valve on the oil line, do what ever you want with your own bike/motorcycle as I am doing what I have always done, keep riding it when I feel like it and let it sit when out on my other bike/motorcycle, if it wet sumps I drain the oil before the next ride and reuse the unfiltered oil back into the tank so simple, take 10 minutes out of my life to do so while checking the tyre pressures and everything else before a ride, I can't see the big deal that some seems to have, ride the bike/motorcycle regularly and no problems, if it wet sumps after a few hours or days then there maybe a problem, if it laid up over time then always good to change the oil.

Ashley
 
Etymology:

motor (n.)

"one who or that which imparts motion," mid-15c., "controller, prime mover (in reference to God);" from Late Latin motor, literally "mover," agent noun from past-participle stem of Latin movere "to move" (from PIE root *meue- "to push away").

engine (n.)

c. 1300, "mechanical device," especially one used in war; "manner of construction," also "skill, craft, innate ability; deceitfulness, trickery," from Old French engin "skill, wit, cleverness," also "trick, deceit, stratagem; war machine" (12c.), from Latin ingenium "innate qualities, ability; inborn character". Sense of "device that converts energy to mechanical power" is 18century.; in 19century. especially of steam engines.
 
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