AMR Nortec Mod

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The only downside I can see is if either the ball or spring get lost or the bike sells and the new owner has no idea of the modification, loses the spring or ball and installs the timing cover as per the manual.
How effective would it be to just do the oil pump oil seal? And are the 4 long thin screws available?

The AMR oil seal is an O ring, whereas the standard Norton seal is the conical one. I believe AMR machines the seat in the timing cover for the O ring, and there is no going back to the conical seal.

If the new owner was not aware of a the AMR mod, disregarded the O ring which would likely remain on the pump port, and replaced the O ring with a conical seal, the result might be a blown engine.

Slick
 
In post #66 it shows the body of the pump has been cut for an internal oil seal. This is what I was referring to, just having this done and NO modifications to the timing cover. Would that be effective? I am concerned about future owners not having a clue about the AMR mod and possibly their mechanic wouldn't either and not realizing that they cannot go back to the original Norton stuff. It is not obvious that the cover has been machined. This mod could end up being as disasterous as the inline shut off valve.
 
When I did the AMR mod I used a milling cutter to increase the depth of the existing hole, I did not modify the timing cover where it seals against the conical seal. I then removed the conical seal on the pump and replaced with the thick O ring AMR use, when the timing cover is fitted it seats on the O ring providing a seal.
 
This mod could end up being as disasterous as the inline shut off valve.
The manual inline shut off valve I use requires some archaic non-intuitive motorcycle rider attention. I don't have a problem with it. Maybe because I'm not in a big hurry anymore, have simply added checking it to my pre-start check list, don't have A.D.D., and quit drinking booze, of which I was very fond. Not recommending using one. Just saying the danger of using one is entirely the owners fault when things go wrong.
 
I rebuilt a guy's 850 motor because the previous owner had included an inline shut off valve. One rocker was almost frozen on the shaft, the crank needed to be turned, and the rod shells had worn down to the copper. The motor was "just rebuilt". I cringe every time I see one of those things and strongly advise the owner to eliminate it.
I am unsure of what exactly the AMR timing cover mod includes, just know that it works well. I had assumed the conical section had been lightly machined to be compatible with the new o-ring. Is this true? If it hasn't been touched then the original norton conical seal could be installed.
 
A pump with the AMR O ring in place, do not have a conical seal to show but doubt its height is any different.

AMR Nortec Mod


AMR Nortec Mod
 
The ball seats on the O ring?

That makes sense. But the spigot on the oil pump looks taller than the seal?
 
I used a ball ended milling cutter with the same diameter as the ball and just tickled the spigot to reshape the ID to fit the ball a bit closer, I did not reduce the height. I also have balls of the same diameter in different materials in case the steel on steel were to fail, so rubber, bronze and EDPM are in stock for fitting if needed.
 
I am not sure AMR intends the ball to seat on the O ring, or on the pump spigot.

I tried to determine which by using modelling clay, but was unsuccessful.

I am thinking the ball seats on the spigot because the O ring hardens over time and may even lose its circular shape.

AMR did not profile the spigot as Kommando describes in post #94.

Slick
 
I used a ball ended milling cutter with the same diameter as the ball and just tickled the spigot to reshape the ID to fit the ball a bit closer, I did not reduce the height. I also have balls of the same diameter in different materials in case the steel on steel were to fail, so rubber, bronze and EDPM are in stock for fitting if needed.
So... are you the go to place for timing cover mods in the U.K... ?
 
I fished the check ball out of my used oil container with a magnet. Messy. It is the same one youz guys are using, except mine is currently in a plastic bag. I'd put it back in if I were to sell the bike. I wouldn't sell a bike with the inline ball valve in it. Having to remember to open the valve is too much new owner responsibility.

AMR Nortec Mod
 
I use a 1/4" steel ball. So if yours is also 1/4" then it's the same. The passageway is 5/16" so once the ball is pushed off the seat but before it gets pushed fully out of the way some oil can pass.
 
AMR Nortec Mod

AMR Nortec Mod

I'm not sure what they did here. Did they drill out the hole? Or just run a countersink bit in there for a second?


AMR Nortec Mod


And the modified oil pump. I'm tempted to open it up to see how they did the seals.


AMR Nortec Mod


A spare o-ring for the pump.


AMR Nortec Mod


Don't pull this out too soon!


AMR Nortec Mod


Here's the OPRV mod. With a jig I bet they can do this super quick.

They also include a couple pages of instructions. I'll post those later today.

I also got all new seals and gaskets from Old Britts so this can go back together soon. I need to finish this up so I can move over to the other side of the bike and get rid of that messy oil filled primary.
 
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