AMR Nortec Mod

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swooshdave said:
I'm not sure what they did here. Did they drill out the hole? Or just run a countersink bit in there for a second?
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Why don't you remove the pin, ball bearing and spring, and look?
I doubt the ball and spring would fit if it wasn't drilled.
 
L.A.B. said:
Why don't you remove the pin, ball bearing and spring, and look?
I doubt the ball and spring would fit if it wasn't drilled.
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If you pull that pin then the ball will fly out at such force the earth will stop spinning. I think that's what I read in the instructional sheets. Or something like that.

More likely I'll pull out another cover that wasn't modified and see what it looks like.
 
swooshdave said:
If you pull that pin then the ball will fly out at such force the earth will stop spinning. I think that's what I read in the instructional sheets. Or something like that.
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It must only be a fairly weak spring!
 
I use an end mill to deepen that hole not a drill as you get very close to the outside of the cover, but never had to deburr it as the end mill is the same size as original hole and only making it deeper. The OPRV diversion hole is 30 degrees to the timing cover face.
 
kommando said:
I use an end mill to deepen that hole not a drill as you get very close to the outside of the cover, but never had to deburr it as the end mill is the same size as original hole and only making it deeper. The OPRV diversion hole is 30 degrees to the timing cover face.
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30 degrees in one axis but don't you have to worry about another axis?
 
swooshdave said:
How did you support the cover? It's pretty irregular. Did you have to make a jig that you could bolt the cover to and give you have flat surface?
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I have pics I will post tomorrow, I have a large L plate on the mill table and I use the flat points flange to mount the cover vertical, then adjust the OPRV to be horizontal. The mill head is set to 30 degrees before drilling.
AMR Nortec Mod
 
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kommando said:
I have pics I will post tomorrow, I have a large L plate on the mill table and I use the flat points flange to mount the cover vertical, then adjust the OPRV to be horizontal. The mill head is set to 30 degrees before drilling.
AMR Nortec Mod
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That is fantastic. It helps me so much to see a picture. How do you know where to put the hole? Are you measuring over from the existing blocked passageway?

AMR Nortec Mod
 
swooshdave said:
That is fantastic. It helps me so much to see a picture. How do you know where to put the hole? Are you measuring over from the existing blocked passageway?

AMR Nortec Mod
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No, I have an old beat up Atlas cover used as an intermediate shaft support when retensioning timing chain, that had the MK3 route. I measured that plus checked where the hole came out relative to the OPRV valve. That's what gave the 30 degrees as the angle. Using the points flange only works on the later timing covers.
 
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Is that the new PR exit.
I had been tempted to seal the passage in the engine case with a grub screw and machine a channel with a ball nose cutter where the black arrow points.
Maybe that would not work ?

AMR Nortec Mod
 
Time Warp said:
I had been tempted to seal the passage in the engine case with a grub screw and machine a channel with a ball nose cutter where the black arrow points.
Maybe that would not work ?
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Had a look at my drilled timing cover and the hole you plan to use points at exactly the same point on the OPRV valve as the extra hole does so your scheme would have the same effect as the extra hole.
 
Time Warp said:
Is that the new PR exit.
I had been tempted to seal the passage in the engine case with a grub screw and machine a channel with a ball nose cutter where the black arrow points.
Maybe that would not work ?

View attachment 21354
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Yes the topic continues to revive like TV reruns! My original sketch is from the mid 1990's so it has gotten a lot of mileage, LOL, then being on my website since the early 2000's.
You could just cut the slot in the timing cover gasket. But cutting/grinding the channel in the cover as you have marked makes it more idiot proof.
 
Wouldn’t cutting a slot in the cover face increase the likelihood of a leak? You’re asking the gasket to do something it wasn’t meant to do.
 
swooshdave said:
Wouldn’t cutting a slot in the cover face increase the likelihood of a leak?
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No, look at the route outlined on TW's photo, the gasket is at its widest at that point. Once you cutaway then the width left is still wider than the normal width you can see at the bottom of the timing cover. Will be using this version next time, saves a complete setup on the mill table as it can be done with the same setup as extending the hole to take the ball and spring.

I will use a ball ended mill so the slot bottom is rounded so a crack cannot propagate.
 
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Time Warp said:
Is that the new PR exit.
I had been tempted to seal the passage in the engine case with a grub screw and machine a channel with a ball nose cutter where the black arrow points.
Maybe that would not work ?

View attachment 21354
Click to expand...
Here's what I did, as I didn't have a bit long enough to reach the place that AMR drill. However if I were to do it again I think it would be wiser to modify the crankcase with a notch. - If for any reason the next owner put a standard timing cover back on the OPRV won't have anywhere to blow by as I've plugged the original oilway and I guess that would blow the pump seal (at least).

 
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