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Why don't you remove the pin, ball bearing and spring, and look?
I doubt the ball and spring would fit if it wasn't drilled.
AMR Nortec Mod
- Thread starter swooshdave
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Why don't you remove the pin, ball bearing and spring, and look?
I doubt the ball and spring would fit if it wasn't drilled.
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If you pull that pin then the ball will fly out at such force the earth will stop spinning. I think that's what I read in the instructional sheets. Or something like that.
More likely I'll pull out another cover that wasn't modified and see what it looks like.
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It must only be a fairly weak spring!
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I use an end mill to deepen that hole not a drill as you get very close to the outside of the cover, but never had to deburr it as the end mill is the same size as original hole and only making it deeper. The OPRV diversion hole is 30 degrees to the timing cover face.
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Just imagine how strong I will need to be to pull the pin!
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30 degrees in one axis but don't you have to worry about another axis?
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I levelled it on the bore of the oprv.
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How did you support the cover? It's pretty irregular. Did you have to make a jig that you could bolt the cover to and give you have flat surface?
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I have pics I will post tomorrow, I have a large L plate on the mill table and I use the flat points flange to mount the cover vertical, then adjust the OPRV to be horizontal. The mill head is set to 30 degrees before drilling.
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That is fantastic. It helps me so much to see a picture. How do you know where to put the hole? Are you measuring over from the existing blocked passageway?I have pics I will post tomorrow, I have a large L plate on the mill table and I use the flat points flange to mount the cover vertical, then adjust the OPRV to be horizontal. The mill head is set to 30 degrees before drilling.
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No, I have an old beat up Atlas cover used as an intermediate shaft support when retensioning timing chain, that had the MK3 route. I measured that plus checked where the hole came out relative to the OPRV valve. That's what gave the 30 degrees as the angle. Using the points flange only works on the later timing covers.That is fantastic. It helps me so much to see a picture. How do you know where to put the hole? Are you measuring over from the existing blocked passageway?
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Had a look at my drilled timing cover and the hole you plan to use points at exactly the same point on the OPRV valve as the extra hole does so your scheme would have the same effect as the extra hole.
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Yes the topic continues to revive like TV reruns! My original sketch is from the mid 1990's so it has gotten a lot of mileage, LOL, then being on my website since the early 2000's.
You could just cut the slot in the timing cover gasket. But cutting/grinding the channel in the cover as you have marked makes it more idiot proof.
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Wouldn’t cutting a slot in the cover face increase the likelihood of a leak? You’re asking the gasket to do something it wasn’t meant to do.
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No, look at the route outlined on TW's photo, the gasket is at its widest at that point. Once you cutaway then the width left is still wider than the normal width you can see at the bottom of the timing cover. Will be using this version next time, saves a complete setup on the mill table as it can be done with the same setup as extending the hole to take the ball and spring.
I will use a ball ended mill so the slot bottom is rounded so a crack cannot propagate.
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cliffa
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Here's what I did, as I didn't have a bit long enough to reach the place that AMR drill. However if I were to do it again I think it would be wiser to modify the crankcase with a notch. - If for any reason the next owner put a standard timing cover back on the OPRV won't have anywhere to blow by as I've plugged the original oilway and I guess that would blow the pump seal (at least).
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