AMR Nortec Mod

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kommando said:
No, look at the route outlined on TW's photo, the gasket is at its widest at that point. Once you cutaway then the width left is still wider than the normal width you can see at the bottom of the timing cover. Will be using this version next time, saves a complete setup on the mill table as it can be done with the same setup as extending the hole to take the ball and spring.

I will use a ball ended mill so the slot bottom is rounded so a crack cannot propagate.
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If you were to do it somewhere on the cover that is the best place to do it. I'd just put plenty of gasket sealant around the area.
 
cliffa said:
Here's what I did, as I didn't have a bit long enough to reach the place that AMR drill. However if I were to do it again I think it would be wiser to modify the crankcase with a notch. - If for any reason the next owner put a standard timing cover back on the OPRV won't have anywhere to blow by as I've plugged the original oilway and I guess that would blow the pump seal (at least).

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If the notch works that this idea seems even better. I keep thinking we can't learn something new and there are two good ideas so far from this thread.
 
With the concern for future owners of the modified timing covers, could a reference note be scribed with a Dremel ball tool on the inside of the timing cover?
Something like "AMR MODIFIED" or "SEE NOTE #7" in a data sheet given to the new owner.
 
franko said:
With the concern for future owners of the modified timing covers, could a reference note be scribed with a Dremel ball tool on the inside of the timing cover?
Something like "AMR MODIFIED" or "SEE NOTE #7" in a data sheet given to the new owner.
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Given some of the crap I've seen from FPOs this isn't something new. With any old vehicle part of learning about the vehicle is learning what has changed and what is wrong. Hence the immense popularity of a certain Norton forum.
 


This is just a rough clip I shot. I'd love to get feedback on the accuracy of the description before I button things up and have time to reshoot it. Thoughts?
 
2:19 Oil doesn't "go up into the crankshaft" or "dump right into the crankshaft through this hole".

When the engine is running the "hole" in the timing cover directs oil from the OPRV back to the pump feed inlet through the crankcase drilling.

When the engine is not running there is the potential for oil to flow in the reverse direction from the oil tank, through the crankcase drilling, and OPRV into the timing cover gallery and on to the crankshaft, thus bypassing the oil pump.
 
The need for 126 posts over this topic is based on a mod to the timing cover AND DUE TO a mod to the engine cases(plug). two seperate parts that must be compatible and will cause a problem if the parts are seperated.

suggest: A OPV vent in timing cover with a 1/4-20 tapped hole is where you store the case 1/4-20 plug.

Plug in the engine case=atlas/MKIII timing chest vent mode
Plug in the timing cover OPV vent= commando recirculate mode (suggest the superior SRM low leak OPV)

You get to chose and reverse mod if you want!
If the spring and ball is there or not there, makes no difference though it might still wet sump.
 
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L.A.B. said:
2:19 Oil doesn't "go up into the crankshaft" or "dump right into the crankshaft through this hole".

When the engine is running the "hole" in the timing cover directs oil from the OPRV back to the pump feed inlet through the crankcase drilling.

When the engine is not running there is the potential for oil to flow in the reverse direction from the oil tank, through the crankcase drilling, and OPRV into the timing cover gallery and on to the crankshaft, thus bypassing the oil pump.
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Thank you for the correction.
 
dynodave said:
The need for 126 posts over this topic is based on a mod to the timing cover AND DUE TO a mod to the engine cases(plug). two seperate parts that must be compatible and will cause a problem if the parts are seperated.
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That is the drawback of the OPRV mod. A courteous person would mark or engrave something indicating that a modification was made.
 
dynodave said:
You get to chose and reverse mod if you want!
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To me this is even more courteous than selling a bike with engravings of unwanted irreversible holes and groves and mods? or the need to buy new unmodified parts.
Your improvements may later just be some one elses job to repair back to stock.
 
dynodave said:
To me this is even more courteous than selling a bike with engravings of unwanted irreversible holes and groves and mods? or the need to buy new unmodified parts.
Your improvements may later just be some one elses job to repair back to stock.
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It seems the general attitude with some people around here is that we'll be dead and we won't care if it's someone else's problem. :p
 
I'll just continue on as before and let the cam get soaked in oil upon start up, never had a problem with wet sumping in all these years. Oh wait! When I first got it I added oil to the tank before starting it and paid the price. lol
 
AMR Nortec Mod

The inner primary has been off for a little while, at least a day and there’s no oil weeping from the fixing holes yet. When I had the primary off the other bike that didn’t have the anti-wetsumping feature the sump would fill up and oil would come out of the engine. So at least for now it’s progress. I probably won’t have the primary back on for a week as I wait for parts. We’ll see if it’s still dry then.
 

Winter Project Updates - I've been busy!

After a few months of upgrades it was time for a test ride. I was a little surprised when it started right up! Anti-wet sumping modification from AMR, belt drive courtesy of Steve Maney, oil pressure sensor from @madass140, warning light from ImprovingClassicMotorcycles.com and to top it off was...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

Finally an update. I wrapped up some other projects and it was time for a ride. Now I had removed the timing cover and ignition rotor and wasn't confident that I got it back on right. Turns out I'm either lucky or good. And we know which one it is. Bike started right up, easy to kick over which indicated an empty sump. I checked the oil level before starting and after and there wasn't any difference. At least for now I have a feeling that I have eliminated most, if not all of the wet sumping. I like that there's no external valve or anything else to worry about. Well, until I remove the timing cover and the ball goes flying across the garage...
 
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