Oil filter

Status
Not open for further replies.
jbruney

jbruney

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 5, 2019
Messages
2,264
Country flag
Okay I tired of scrambling about ordering filters every time I needed a change. No matter the number I get I'm always out. At a suggestion from someone, someplace, or whatever I purchased a wix 51032 about 6 months back and finally got around to checking it out. Well it works in a pinch, so I'll use them from now on. The threads are slightly different and the seal slightly smaller, but with patience they make up and in effect allow for a tight seal with no leaking, are off the shelf everywhere, don't waste my time, prevent me from gritting my already chipped front teeth..... Thought I'd share for those who don't know.
I don't care who makes better either because with the availability I can change filters as easily as I do socks now, or shop towels & crapper paper..... I'm all warm & fuzzy right now and off on 1st kick. .... Just another joyous moment in owning a Norton Commando. Heaven on Earth.
 
I know one thing I won't be using those black Norton embossed filters that seem to have some form of plastic disc as the check valve.

I compared one to that from a Moto Guzzi and the difference and action was night and day.
UFI for the win, Norton for the china cabinet (If I had one)
 
Time Warp said:
I know one thing I won't be using those black Norton embossed filters that seem to have some form of plastic disc as the check valve.

I compared one to that from a Moto Guzzi and the difference and action was night and day.
UFI for the win, Norton for the china cabinet (If I had one)
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate on the plastic disc? I've never seen this
Cheers
 
Does the Norton actually need a drain back/check or pressure relief valve as it is on the low pressure side of the system?
 
Tornado said:
Does the Norton actually need a drain back/check or pressure relief valve as it is on the low pressure side of the system?
Click to expand...
I have a all alloy canister type filter that K & N made back in the day with a washable 600 micron insert
It was big money back in the day but it works and alloys me to scrutinize the filter before cleaning
 
baz said:
Can you elaborate on the plastic disc? I've never seen this
Cheers
Click to expand...

It seems to have some form of plastic disc or moulding that can be seen though the outer holes (flow is inward though those numerous holes and out via the central port.
On these Norton filters they actually make a noise like a reed valve where as the UNI type still have the check function but it is smoother acting and easier to activate.
I am not saying they are no good but they are not for me.

That device would normally be for a wet sump to maintain prime at the oil pump.
 
  • Like
Reactions: baz
Well I saw no such thing within the gutty works of this wix filter which lead me to like it all the more, although I've no clue as to how many microns it'll go down to or the quality of the element media..... All I've got to add is stay on top of oil/filter changes which my old motor can benefit from anyway.
 
zefer said:
I have a all alloy canister type filter that K & N made back in the day with a washable 600 micron insert
It was big money back in the day but it works and alloys me to scrutinize the filter before cleaning
Click to expand...

Current standard filters are at 40 microns filtration potential (many are less). I am wondering what the bronze gauze sump filter is rated at?

When RPC was active in the Norton parts business it offered an adapter that would screw onto the filter mount and would accept a number of off the shelf ,commonly available spin on filters. I'm sure that these are currently offered by a number of other sources. One of my (potential) customers told me, with a smirk, that Ducati spin-ons worked without any adapter, dumb F%$k. An adapter at $12.95 + commonly available fiter cost less (at the time) than a single Ducati filter.

I suppose that any spin-on filter is miles ahead of no filter...

Best.
 
You might want to read Royce Creasey on the subject of oil filters here: http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_Tech/oilfilter.pdf
In this article, he discusses fitting a Norton oil filter to a Ducati single engine. Even though much of the gory detail of how this is done is irrelevant to owners of the Unapproachable, it's still an interesting look at the filter and how it works.

For those who do not know who Royce is, he is (was?) one of the pioneers in the Feet Forward motorcycle development (remember the Quaser?), trained as an Aircraft Fitter in the RAF, then worked in F1 doing gearbox design. Well qualified on the subject of mechanical design.
 
That article is odd in that it mentions high pressures and fittings to suit but on an engine that has a low pressure system being a roller bottom end including the connecting rod.

The roller engines that had oil filters have one like this as in my crankcase breather/separator. (The acetyl outer body is removed)
If the lower part looks vaguely familiar you would be correct.

tnk2.jpg
 
Time Warp said:
That article is odd in that it mentions high pressures and fittings to suit but on an engine that has a low pressure system being a roller bottom end including the connecting rod.
Click to expand...
As I mentioned, the gory details are not of much relevance to a Norton owner, but if you read the article, he does mention his dislike of using push-on hoses & jubilee clips. I suspect it's his background in aircraft and F1 showing here.
 
Stopped reading that article after 3rd paragraph, he claims 15 to 30 micron's is equivalent to .004" to .110", it's actually 0.0006" to 0.0012".

Most modern auto filters are designed to stop 30 micron's, as the dirt collects this improves as the pores of the media are filled. The bypass valve is needed as an escape route for the oil if the media gets blocked completely, so its needed even in a return line filter so the oil gets back to the tank.
 
Has anybody done a test recently on which filter is "best"? Which traps smallest bits etc?
 
Onder said:
Has anybody done a test recently on which filter is "best"? Which traps smallest bits etc?
Click to expand...
If you want a filter than traps finer crud then you need a Hydraulic pump filter which can be either 3 or 5 micron from new, they are cartridge filters like the auto ones, you need to read all the tech data to find one that fits the Norton filter head.
 
With the oil filter on the return leg you are hoping it picked up any contaminant the last time around... or not
 
Time Warp said:
With the oil filter on the return leg you are hoping it picked up any contaminant the last time around... or not
Click to expand...
Why?
It doesn’t matter where the filter is in the system, that comment still applies.

The only ‘advantage’ to a filter on the feed side is it catches any crud that may have gotten into the tank. But, if your tank is clean to begin with, and if you don’t put crud in there, this is a moot point.

The down side to putting a filter on the feed side to a Norton is the dangers of blockage, reduced flow or pressure, etc.
 
It appears I have my Commando rocker feed connected incorrectly according to Mr Creasey.
 
Gear pumps don't suck well, so a filter on the feedside not primed with oil or filled with crud will starve your engine of oil, hence the recommendation for it to be on the return side.

The exception is 'Charlie's filter' for the OIF Triumph/BSA, its submerged in oil at the bottom of the frame so gets away from this issue.
 
The filter in the return line was a band aid working with what was available for easy fitment or it would have been on the pressure side or between the pump and crankshaft ( Which if I recall correctly Jim Comstock did as a modification to his F.I bike)
With a pressure / scavenge oil pump one or the other side will be favoured for filtration either way.

Of course any filter is better than no filter but you normally have it protecting the engine parts, not the oil tank.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top