New frames

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Did you take Dr. John just the frame? Or did you take him the frame with motor/trans./rear wheel attached? He told me to bring it in with motor and rear wheel still attached, and then strip it down later for restoration. He did seem familiar with Nortons. He told me $500.00. Wasco wants me to Fedex the frame, engine cradle and swing arm. Both sound good, not sure which way to go. I would have to spend 1-2 nights in Anaheim if I go to Dr. John.

Honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either.
 
The 850F is unique for MK3's as it's also stamped on the red plate, prior to this is probably is but as it was not stamped on the red plate it was not supposed to be used. I hope it is unique as my MK2a is registered using the 850F number in the UK, I know several other bikes in UK are registered this way.
 
The 850F number is certainly unique. I was led to believe it was the number stamped on by Farina at manufacture. The VIN tag *should* be the bike's identity. but I've now had 2 MkIIA 850s where the registration document referred to the 'F' number, as per Kommando's.
Might be interesting trying to find a stamp to do the circles with the double lines inside too...;)
 
The number on the frame is definitely unique and many bikes are registered with it instead of the number on the plate. My Commando was built in late 73, and it was first registered in California as a 74 model using the number on the frame.
 
The 850F is unique for MK3's as it's also stamped on the red plate, prior to this is probably is but as it was not stamped on the red plate it was not supposed to be used. I hope it is unique as my MK2a is registered using the 850F number in the UK, I know several other bikes in UK are registered this way.
My Mk2a is registered in California by the 850F number.
 
I have two MK3s registered in California. One title ("pink slip") shows the 850F number as the "Vehicle ID", and the other shows the 6-digit serial number (same as the engine number). Both have the 6-digit serial numbers listed as the "Engine Number". Both have an 850F number stamped on the steering head, and the 6-digit serial numbers stamped on the plates riveted to the steering heads. Go figure. I first noticed this when stamping new plates to match the old ones during rebuild, and thought it confusing. This thread has helped ease my concern that one of them might not be correct.

Ken
 
That tidbit of info indicates you should fix the frame and not replace.
Yes, I agree. I'm working my way down to the frame looking forward to a better bike when I'm done, trying to control the "scope creep".
 
I have two MK3s registered in California. One title ("pink slip") shows the 850F number as the "Vehicle ID", and the other shows the 6-digit serial number (same as the engine number). Both have the 6-digit serial numbers listed as the "Engine Number". Both have an 850F number stamped on the steering head, and the 6-digit serial numbers stamped on the plates riveted to the steering heads. Go figure. I first noticed this when stamping new plates to match the old ones during rebuild, and thought it confusing. This thread has helped ease my concern that one of them might not be correct.

Ken
I was told that it depended on the dealer registering the bike for the first time with the DMV. Some DMV clerks would use the engine number, some the frame. I know that the CHP is trained to look at the engine numbers and the frame numbers on your registration if they pull you over. That practice goes back to the days when a lot of Harleys were stolen. As a former Harley rider I needed to make sure my paper work was in order.
 
I was told that it depended on the dealer registering the bike for the first time with the DMV. Some DMV clerks would use the engine number, some the frame. I know that the CHP is trained to look at the engine numbers and the frame numbers on your registration if they pull you over. That practice goes back to the days when a lot of Harleys were stolen. As a former Harley rider I needed to make sure my paper work was in order.

Sounds reasonable.

Ken
 
That tidbit of info indicates you should fix the frame and not replace.

Whilst I’m no expert in California law, it is normal, and usual, that a NEW (as in brand new, not a used replacement) frame rightly takes the number from the frame it is replacing. The old frame is then scrapped.

If new frames came with numbers, thieves could simply buy a new frame, steal a bike, bolt all the bits onto the new frame and ‘bingo’ a new bike. It would also cause complications with date of registration etc.

So, a new frame will NOT come with any VIN. The VIN that was used to register the old frame is transferred to the new one.

Hence, although many people struggle with the concept, a bike fitted with a NEW frame will still be a ‘matching numbers’ bike.
 
Whilst I’m no expert in California law, it is normal, and usual, that a NEW (as in brand new, not a used replacement) frame rightly takes the number from the frame it is replacing. The old frame is then scrapped.

If new frames came with numbers, thieves could simply buy a new frame, steal a bike, bolt all the bits onto the new frame and ‘bingo’ a new bike. It would also cause complications with date of registration etc.

So, a new frame will NOT come with any VIN. The VIN that was used to register the old frame is transferred to the new one.

Hence, although many people struggle with the concept, a bike fitted with a NEW frame will still be a ‘matching numbers’ bike.
Yes, the frame is just a "part". In the automotive trade/hobby it would be called a"service replacement". Many consider a service replacement engine block to be almost as good as the original, especially if it has paperwork showing it was a warranty replacement done by the dealer. Otherwise, "service replacement" parts should be explained to a prospective buyer as the "correct" part, but not the "original" part, to be honest.
 
Mine has engine number and date 8/74 on plate, 850F# stamped in frame neck.

Hi. Can you please do me a huge favour and tell me roughly your engine no. I have 319265 but the date is missing and I think it should be 7 or 8 or even 9 /74

I want to complete my red plate but don’t know the correct month. If your no is close to mine then 8 might be the correct month

John
 
Most 850 numbers seem to have the third digit corresponding to the month of manufacture, so yours is likely to be 9/74.
However, I'm aware of exceptions in the '73 model year but not '74 (yet...), so definitely not definite o_O
 
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