Relocating ignition switch

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I'm currently installing some items on my '73 including CNW rearset, Ikon shocks, new Amal Premiers, and Smiths E-gauges. One of the things I'm doing is installing a pair of velocity stacks on the Amals. In doing so, the OEM air filter will be leaving the scene. Unfortunately, that also removes the mounting point for the ignition switch. I'd like some opinions for relocating/mounting the switch.

I am also considering eliminating the switch completely and installing a hidden on/off toggle switch to replace it. I would wire the headlights to come on with the switch on the headlight shell which does nothing on my bike but, on my old, original '71 (back in the day) was the headlight switch. Thoughts on this are welcome as well!

Thanks
 
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While in the process of bringing my '74 back to life I will be relocating the switch. I am currently thinking about making a bracket and mounting it under the coil bracket.
 
I'll be in the same boat shortly. My ideas have ranged from using a Smart Key to a code circuit similar to a remote garage door opener, both draw power continuously, however. My favorite, currently, is to use the existing ham-can backing plate, weld in a reinforcing border which would fit tight against the lip, then cut out the surface in between. You can make the reinforcing border in any shape that gives you clearance for the velocity stacks and supports the key.

My first build simply had an on-off switch and I carried a substantial cable lock, which I do anyway, worked just fine.
 
I'm in a similar boat. I have a '70 with the key in the side panel. I'm getting rid of the roadster side panel to use interstate panels since I have an interstate tank on the bike presently. I also have to build out the right interstate panel to mirror the left one, then sculpt it around the central oil tank. I really don't want to put the key in the face of the interstate side cover, nor do I want to extend those wires to put a key on the dashboard, but that's probably the best place to move it...

As others have said, I probably don't even need a "keyed" switch because nobody but a norton owner could kick start my bike anyway... I'd also like to hear other creative solutions.
 
Putting the switch in the side cover like the earlier Commandos is one thing I'm considering. It would probably be the easiest thing to do...other than just putting the OEM airbox back in! ;)
 
I made a crude aluminium bracket fitted in the handlebar clamp about 30 years ago and it is still going strong. The switch is right in front of me so I can easily turn it on or off. A few years ago I finally saw sense and fitted relays to the headlamp circuit to stop the ignition switch burning out the contacts.
 
While in the process of bringing my '74 back to life I will be relocating the switch. I am currently thinking about making a bracket and mounting it under the coil bracket.

I'll be in this position also as i plan to be using K&N or BMC air filter
And As I'll hopefully be mounting the Boyer Micro power coil where the air filter housing once was, re-locating the switch where the coils used to be sounds on the surface a good plan
The loom will of course need lengthening.
 
I made a bracket that hung off the battery box and the key was just above the primary cover. Good support and out of the way.
 
I'm with HoveToo, but stainless and bloke with a laser cutter (or waterjet?) did me a favour.
Relocating ignition switch
 
I like the hidden toggle switch, just don’t let anyone see your ultra super secret switch location.
 
I’ve got a secret toggle on my KTM EXC SM and I have to look around furtively every time I park/switch it and again when I return. PITA and I never feel secure; peaking out windows . . . So, a padlock goes onto the rear chain/sprocket but first I have to unlock it from the hand guard. PITA
 
I put a similar hidden toggle on my BMW R9T so I could disable the ABS in the dirt. First time I actually wanted to disable it - probably a year later - I couldn't remember where I put it! :)
 
I met a guy on the IOM in 2017 who'd removed the Indicators, and just used that switch for the ignition. Who would guess that ?
 
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I did like swooshdave did off of the battery box. This was a number of years and bikes ago. It worked very well.
 
One problem making a new bracket is that it is not simply a round hole. There must be a flat on it so the switch doesn't turn as the key is turned.
 
I made my round hole with the flat with a Dremel. I didn't own a Dremel at the time so it gave me the wife logic to go buy one. It took about 10 minutes with my new wonder tool.
 
I made my round hole with the flat with a Dremel. I didn't own a Dremel at the time so it gave me the wife logic to go buy one. It took about 10 minutes with my new wonder tool.

Good one! I already have a Dremel though...maybe there's a special "round hole with flat" cutting tool I could convince my wife I need! :)

I've decided to make a small plate that will attach to the battery box bolts that held the original air cleaner back plate. The switch will be mounted to the left (as you sit on the bike) of the centerline of the batt box so it will be mounted 5-6" below the left carb velocity stack facing forward. The rear of the switch will intrude into the battery compartment but with the Shorai 18AH, there is no issue due to the batt's small size. Only issue with that placement is that it makes turning on the lights a bit of a reach, though workable. It does not require any wiring changes at all. Just need that special tool to cut the hole!

Hey, after a rather short period with the velocity stacks I may decide to just put the OEM air filter back in place/remove the stacks. We'll see...
 
my 73 had a round hole, even though the switch had one side flat.

i have fabricate a replacement plate which retains the switch position but only has the bottom of the back plate. allowing any foam filter to extend a little into the battery area.
 
A few days ago I watched the movie Shampoo, in which Warren Beatty rode a 1975 500 Triumph. It was funny watching him get off the bike, put it on the sidestand, and then thrash around trying to find the key on the side cover so he could turn it off. Same dance, every time he parked the bike. What a stupid place for the key. If I was going to move the ignition, it would be near the top yoke. Though I appreciate this presents a bit of a challenge with the wiring. Comments from anybody who has done this?

Stephen Hill
 
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