Relocating ignition switch

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Stephen Hill said:
...What a stupid place for the key. If I was going to move the ignition, it would be near the top yoke. Though I appreciate this presents a bit of a challenge with the wiring. Comments from anybody who has done this?

Stephen Hill
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once you commit to a relocation, a rewire is inevitable..., it opens a whole lot of other options, like a more modern ign cylinder and key for a start.

Oh the horror , what to use??? a honda or maybe even a modern triumph unit, i can't make up my mind :eek::)
 
Back when I ran a k&n filter on my bike I used a switch mount like this one https://www.bing.com/aclick?ld=d3ff...CC%3A70&rlid=49dcf3f171e51858dc90afe266c8f114

They are made my Drag Specialties and probably many others and are quite common on custom Harleys and cheap (I think I paid $10 at a Harley dealership for mine) All you need is a grab rail clip or similar to mount it to the frame with. I had mine in more or less the same position as the original switch but rotated about 45 degrees. It was easier to find than the stock position and didn't poke me in the leg either.
 
MexicoMike said:
Good one! I already have a Dremel though...maybe there's a special "round hole with flat" cutting tool I could convince my wife I need! :)

I've decided to make a small plate that will attach to the battery box bolts that held the original air cleaner back plate. The switch will be mounted to the left (as you sit on the bike) of the centerline of the batt box so it will be mounted 5-6" below the left carb velocity stack facing forward. The rear of the switch will intrude into the battery compartment but with the Shorai 18AH, there is no issue due to the batt's small size. Only issue with that placement is that it makes turning on the lights a bit of a reach, though workable. It does not require any wiring changes at all. Just need that special tool to cut the hole!

Hey, after a rather short period with the velocity stacks I may decide to just put the OEM air filter back in place/remove the stacks. We'll see...
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I put a velocity stack on a BSA 500 single back in the early 70s. When my throttle slide wouldn't return all of the way down because of the rock that had weaseled in past the screen, I rethought my choice of intake filtration. I was no longer one of the cool guys but I was able to learn how to deal with it. Suppress ones ego, Grasshopper. Kung Fu was big on tv at the time.
 
That's good advice, Steve, thanks!

Since I mounted the new Premiers/stacks and admired the look, the smart portion of my brain (admittedly the much smaller portion) has been saying, "What the F^%$ are you doing?" ;) Ironically, I would give anybody else the same advice - do NOT run without air filters! Heck, I don't even care for KN filters because they don't filter as well as pleated paper and here I am with brand new carbs and velocity stacks that are wide open - no screen or anything. EEK! :(

There are still several days of other work on the bike before I put it back on the road. Maybe common sense will prevail before I actually start the engine. It's easy enough to remove the stacks/reinstall the ham can!
 
cliffa said:
I met a guy on the IOM in 2017 who'd removed the Indicators, and just used that switch for the ignition. Who would guess that ?
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On my SS clone, the 2-position ignition switch is located between the clocks and the turn signal switch operates the bright/dim main headlight. When it's in the central position (headlight off) the pilot light keeps me daytime legal.
 
Having read various threads on anti wet sump shut off valves, with electrical isolator fail safes that I would be comfortable with, then it's only another step to have said valve key operated. Two birds one stone. Would it be asking too much of a key srength wise though?
 
I have completed relocating the switch - below/aft of the carbs mounted to the battery box. It's not really much of a reach to turn on the lights but still thinking of just disconnecting the lights from the Ignition switch and going through the switch on the headlight shell. This location allows either of two options I have here, the velocity stacks or a KN Universal Clamp-On Air Filter R-0990, and doesn't require any changes to the harness. There is plenty of slack in the harness to shift the Ignition switch from its former position to the new location.
 
MexicoMike said:
I have completed relocating the switch - below/aft of the carbs mounted to the battery box. It's not really much of a reach to turn on the lights but still thinking of just disconnecting the lights from the Ignition switch and going through the switch on the headlight shell. This location allows either of two options I have here, the velocity stacks or a KN Universal Clamp-On Air Filter R-0990, and doesn't require any changes to the harness. There is plenty of slack in the harness to shift the Ignition switch from its former position to the new location.
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Picture?
 
The disadvantage of the ignition switch up by the yokes is that it's a very exposed area.
 
The important thing about switch location is that you do not have to fiddle about to find it when riding-mine re sited to the battery cover
 
Tried to post pics but the site says "uploads are not available." It appears I would have to post them to an internet photo site and link to them. I haven't used any of those sites for many years. I'm pretty sure I have posted pics here in the past by just inserting them in the message but maybe I'm misremembering or confusing it with other sites I visit. ??

I tried to find the "how to" re posting pics but I can't seem to locate it. I know it exists!
 
MexicoMike said:
Tried to post pics but the site says "uploads are not available." It appears I would have to post them to an internet photo site and link to them. I haven't used any of those sites for many years. I'm pretty sure I have posted pics here in the past by just inserting them in the message but maybe I'm misremembering or confusing it with other sites I visit. ??
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Yes, as direct uploading is only available to VIP members.


MexicoMike said:
I tried to find the "how to" re posting pics but I can't seem to locate it. I know it exists!
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Well... it did exist.

It was in the tech. sticky, but was mainly for Photobucket images. Photobucket began blocking "hotlinked/3rd party hosting" images unless users paid their extortionate membership fee to enable hotlinking and that's the reason it was removed, although it seems Photobucket eventually gave-in and now watermark the images. Since the troubles with Photobucket, members have used various alternative hosting sites such as: https://postimages.org/.
 
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swooshdave said:
The disadvantage of the ignition switch up by the yokes is that it's a very exposed area.
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swooshdave, do you mean in terms of weather protection or visibility to thieves? If it's the former, there a rubber cover available for the MkIII (part no. 60.4335) that fits the top of the switch and should help to protect the inner workings.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
emgo switch generic switch mount rubber boot over wires made from inner tube piece
Relocating ignition switch

Relocating ignition switch
 
Thanks Lab for the photo info!

FWIW, my switch is in essentially the same location as Alan's switch per his photos. Mine is probably 2-3" inches further toward the center of the bike
 
ntst8 said:
I'm with HoveToo, but stainless and bloke with a laser cutter (or waterjet?) did me a favour.
View attachment 7660
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That looks very much like the bracket that my new oil pressure gauge has. I wonder if there's room on the plate to mount an ignition switch too!
 
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